The Official Armortek Forum - World leader in one sixth scale metal kits

Thank's you guys for the reply post on how to achieve accurate weld's on our tank's, as this will be my 1st attempt, it has given me more scope on how to go about it,and material's to use
Tankyou Rog

Hello,
I'am also use milliput ( the yellow one )
very easy to work with.
regards Yves

Re-think on sprockets:
Re-worked (was not happy with the way they where looking), the sprockets, had to strip them down and sand off the base coat and re-primed the hidden areas (Nut and bolt area).
Bought new 6BA Nuts and Bolts re-fitted sprocket rings so it replicates the real King Tiger.

Nice to see you Happy in your work Roger
Looks well worth your efforts.
Cheers
Phil

Hi Phil thank's for the comment Can't wait to get a coat of base coat on it, still struggling trying to do the wheel marathon trouble is I think I could probably run the marathon quicker for how long it's taking (I'm a bit picky)

Cheers
Rog

Hi Roger,

Hate to be picky but shouldn't the locking tabs be on the outside of the wheel rim.

Dennis.

Dennis is right. Also the nuts should face outwards rather than the boltheads.

Nuts and bolts wrong way round on the back also. There would have been locking tabs on the inner side also but kit only includes the set that could be seen. nuts face outwards both sides.

Excellent job removing those machining marks.

Yep, the locking tabs go on the sprocket outside, as do the nuts. But Roger, you should probably get yourself a good photo of the wheels to follow along with. The bolts can run in opposite directions on those for the KT.,and you need to know which ones go which way. You can probably find some pictures right here on this site, in the KT thread.

Dennis Jones wrote:Hi Roger,

Hate to be picky but shouldn't the locking tabs be on the outside of the wheel rim.

Dennis.

Hi all,

In my eyes Roger has got it right.
The T2 sprocket had the sprocket ring bolts from the outside in with the lock bars at the inside.
The T1 sprocket had the sprocket ring bolts from the inside out with the lock bars at the outside.

Kind regards
Kent

Sprocket Detail
Many thank's for all your comment's here are some of the pic's below where i got my information.
Regards Roger

I know you are working fast. Glad you did'nt change anything. A few other King Tigers might need to be changed though.

Update on Drive Sprocket's
Nice to see these done again after my first attempt which was wrong.

You're right. Looks like the tabs and nuts are the other way. But I know I've seen it done many times right here on this site that way. Good catch Roger. But you do have to be careful when looking at post-war vehicles. A lot of error creeps into them during all the years since. Parts being modified, replaced with make-shift components, some discarded all together; parts being re-installed the wrong way. You need look no further than the phoney paint-jobs many now have to know how much attention to detail was given them. It is tempting to want to use newer, color photos of them, especially given the poor quality and detail of war-time photos, but those really are "straight from the horses mouth" so to speak.

Thank's Dave for your kind comment's on being careful on post war pics, like you said it is tempting, but i will be on my guard and hopefully i will get them right, but some times i will probably get them wrong, but that's when it's nice when you guy's comment and discuss the right and wrong's in putting thing's together
All the best cheers Roger

Hi Roger,

Yes be careful using post war photos as template as well as museum stuff.
Always try to find war images and only use the other ones as hints.
Here is a link showing the T2 sprockets as they looked like WW2.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/637977/t ... aintenance

BTW, don't forget folding up the lock bar ends to the nuts.
The bars want be of any use otherwise...

Kind regards
Kent