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Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:44 pm
by David Da Costa
My two pots of RAL 8000 finally turned up today from Germany
http://www.kommiss.com/.
So once I have put some red oxide paint on the hull I will then spray some RAL800.
David
Posted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 6:45 pm
by David Da Costa
Today I put the final coat on the interior of the lower hull so that I can start installing the motors and electronics.
Before that however I will be spraying some red oxide filler primer on the exterior of the hull, followed by the final coat of RAL8000.
Remember to check my build log on my website (under Workbench - Tanks) as I update that with many more build photographs as I go.
David
Posted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 1:57 am
by David Da Costa
Does anyone happen to have the spacing of the cone nuts on the rear lower hull plate (the one where the stater cover would go) or can point me to a sufficiently large scale drawing to take measurements.
Thanks
David
Posted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 3:33 am
by Lawrence Godson
Panzer Tracts no. 3-3 by Thomas l. Jentz & Hilary Louis Doyle has line drawings. You need to compensate for the fact that the rear plate is shown at an angle.
Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 12:38 am
by David Da Costa
I started spraying the final color today. I can now say the suspension arms are finished!!
David
Posted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 2:06 am
by David Da Costa
Today I started adding some cone bolts to the hull. I started with the rear plate on the lower hull.
I used my 1/35 Panzer III Ausf L for reference and marked up the large cones on the rear plate, drilled holes that did not quite go all the way through the plate, threaded them for M3 and inserted m3 grub screws that I had put red Loctite on then screwed on the cone bolts.
In the picture below you can see three cone bolts in place.
David
Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 12:38 am
by David Da Costa
Today I made the starter handle cover on my CNC mill.
I just need to make the two nuts for it now.
David
Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 9:34 pm
by David Da Costa
Todays work was to make the two bolt covers for the armored starter cover.
David
Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 10:01 pm
by Adrian Harris
A simple looking part but I would guess quite tricky to get it looking that good.
You're going to need an origami spanner to do up those bolts
Adrian.
Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 10:16 pm
by David Da Costa
No, I will cheat and glue the bolts to the cover and then tread the hole thing into the plate and lock with red locktite.
David
Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 1:02 am
by David Da Costa
I ended up changing the bolts.
Here is the rear panel almost finished.
David
Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 4:12 am
by David Da Costa
Today's job was to draw and machine from aluminum the cover where the tow hook would go (not sure what it is called or for).
Here is a picture of it on top of a picture of the real thing.
I am going to use M2 nuts and bolts which are pretty much to scale.
David
Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 1:16 am
by David Da Costa
I guess once you start making these extra parts there is no stopping
Just finished drawing up and creating the tool paths to make the two cover plates that go on the rear slopped plate under where the "tow hook cover" is.
Here is a picture of the drawing of the larger of the two covers.
David
Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 1:25 am
by Brian Leach
Nice!
This hobby really is getting sophisticated
Brian
Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 8:38 pm
by David Da Costa
....and here is the actual cover plate made in aluminum and etch primer sprayed.
David