Armortek

Sarah

I certainly plan to, although whether under its own steam or not is a challenge. I'm making a start on wheels now. The motion pack and electrics are all installed and tested.



Today I've installed the return rollers and started work on refining the idlers in the same way as Jeff did. I considered making resin inserts but in the end decided on the Milliput option.



Fabrice - the Gerald Wingrove book arrived yesterday and its full of useful stuff. I'm just reading his techniques for making tyres and the Pz III of course had a lot of detail on the tyres.........





Regards

Stephen

Stephen,

His work is remarkable, especially at 1/15th scale.

From what I recall of posts on the UKTC forum, the problem with moulding your own tyres is getting the correct balance between load bearing qualities and stiffness/detail. Wingrove's cars are not working models or subjected to the static mass of our models. Plus moulding the crispest detail was his overiding priority, so his chosen compounds may not be optimal. Others hereabouts may have found better materials. I think Mark did quite a lot of research/testing for the 88 and halftrack wheels...

Spare wheel tyres would be a good candidate for decorative superdetailing.

From Wingrove's own description, and with help of an ex-BBC technician, I put together a 500Watt resistance soldering machine from an old stage-lighting transformer, Variac, and a few other odds and sods. All for £150. I had been quoted the ridiculous sum of near £700 for a 250W American Beauty unit by the importers. So the book has paid for itself many times over already. Took a bit of practice and lots of part-vaporized brass and steel scraps to get the hang of working with it!

Enjoy.
Fabrice

More slow progress on the idlers, including milling out the centre of the outside ring and putting in the fillets. The kit hub is a couple of millimetres too small but there is no easy way to change that. The hub cover is too shallow so I faced the kit one, added a new piece and turned it to taper. I've adjusted the height to keep the right proportions.










A lot of finishing work still to do but the overall effect is getting there.

Regards

Stephen

Isn't it true that it is always a good day when Stephen White or Jeffery Goff post their work on the forum!

Thank You Stephen~!

Brian

I have to agree Brian - all I managed over the weekend was to get one set of Sherman tracks assembled

Stephen, your rotary table is certainly coming up trumps for you

Did you bulk out the idler spokes with filler

Adrian.

Hi Stephen,

Thanks for the inclusion of tools pic.

Stephen,

Hi. I would not mention this normally, but you are such a stickler for detail (thanks) so I feel the need to ask.

Are you going to put the four holes in the mufflers? Or are thy not present on that particular Pz?

I hope you do not mind

Brian

Brian

Sharp of you to spot it. I considered the four holes (they are actually through pipes which were inserted to stiffen the tanks and prevent them collapsing). I decided not to bother because I'm going to create the exhaust deflectors which will cover them up. They wouldn't be difficult to do. It's a question of time, with the open day coming up fast and then the arrival of the Comet. It's good that you noticed - all helps to keep us honest.

Adrian - the fillets are milliput. I'm beginning to wish I'd done some resin inserts.

Regards

Stephen [/img]

Stephen,

Thank you!

I look forward to meeting and seeing your handywork at the Armortek open house!

Brian

Finally managed to finish the first idler and new hub. Having taken this photo of the Pz III at Tankfest, I've reduced the height of the hub, turning it down to 14mm.



This is the new hub:



Here is the first complete idler with the Milliput fillets. There is a lot of shaping and finishing is these but I think the overall effect is worth it.







Regards

Stephen

Looks really nice Stephen!

I wonder how well the milliput fillets will stand up to the tank running.

Regards


David

those idlers are a lot of work, looking good stephen, a certain satisfaction , not looking forward to doing mine,it will bug me if i don't, great job, regards simon manning

Stephen,


Looking at the work you did, I think I am going to learn investment casting before tackling that job.

I am going to be really sad if you ever get done

Really nice work!

Cheers,
Brian

A mixed bag of things.

Firstly, Steve Winstone's outstanding headlights fitted:





Although most Pz IIIs had blackout covers on the headlights, there are plenty of photos of tanks in Tunisia with plain glass covers, often with piece of material over them. So Steve's lights are authentic for the period.

Next, a new technique to reproduce the typical German rolled armour plate. The surface is very smooth and has horizontal marks from the rolling process. See here the Bovington vehicle:





I've used a thick set spray filler, Upol High #5.



The technique is to spray patches, leave for a few moments then wipe with a stippling brush. The edges are then stippled and sparingly drawn horizontally to represent the rolling marks. This creates the patches of dimpled surface seen on the original.













Finally, the hull escape hatches are no more. I've milled two filler plates and blended them in.





I've finally landed on the vehicle to represent and it was't at all what I'd been working towards. Still in Tunisia but something different. The lack of hatches are a bit of a clue. It's given me a new sense of purpose to be able to see what it will look like.

Regards

Stephen

Sorry, try that again, with the photos in the right order.

A mixed bag of things.

Firstly, Steve Winstone's outstanding headlights fitted:





Although most Pz IIIs had blackout covers on the headlights, there are plenty of photos of tanks in Tunisia with plain glass covers, often with piece of material over them. So Steve's lights are authentic for the period.

Next, a new technique to reproduce the typical German rolled armour plate. The surface is very smooth and has horizontal marks from the rolling process. See here the Bovington vehicle:





I've used a thick set spray filler, Upol High #5.



The technique is to spray patches, leave for a few moments then wipe with a stippling brush. The edges are then stippled and sparingly drawn horizontally to represent the rolling marks. This creates the patches of dimpled surface seen on the original.













Finally, the hull escape hatches are no more. I've milled two filler plates and blended them in.






I've finally landed on the vehicle to represent and it was't at all what I'd been working towards. Still in Tunisia but something different. The lack of hatches are a bit of a clue. It's given me a new sense of purpose to be able to see what it will look like.

Regards

Stephen