Armortek

Hello Phil, just a question about charging the batteries. I am looking to charge both 12v batteries in the hull.
I can do this using the Armortek lead and my brand new Accumate.
Now, there is the direct (from the batteries) 24v lead that goes to the Timer...will I need to isolate, with a switch, this supply to the Timer, while I am charging the batteries??

I am fitting Steve's M/Gs..... I have noticed that the turret M/G, in the A34 Comet Book, is only showing the end of the barrel resting in the cradle, most of the gun is not on view.
I had already cut 18mm off the M/G....do you know if the barrel can be removed, without cutting, so that I can use just the barrel.??
I don't want to cut through the led lead....Mick

Also...I know you have marked the leads on the M/G 'splitter'can you also post a diagram for the installation.....thank you.

Hi Mick
You will be ok charging with it still connected to the batteries,
because just like your other equipment.
A switch comes in handy if you are disconnecting it for any
reason and taking it out.
Thats one of the advantages of the way I used the charging lead as
the power supply for the main gun relays and I disconnected it at
the same time as I discconected the batteries when I had finished.
But the above depends whether you are charging both batteries
together at 24 volt,which is more common or,seperately at 12 volts.
RE MG in the Comet book
Yes it was strange to the photo,s like that of the MG barrel just
sticking out,shown on page 25.
The book is based on Tank T335001 and the photo on page 7
clearly shows the Gun sticking out a lot further and its the same
Tank.
Another good one is on page 9 and you can see the Gun sticking out enough to cover 2 pains of glass in the background and also
confirming the Tank number.
Also on page 12 and 15 and the line drawing on page 49.
The 2 photo,s on page 68 of the Comet I am following confirmed
it for me,showing the Tank WHY WORRY.
There is also a photo of a Comet on page 65 from the 3rd Royal
Tank Regement to show that it wasnt just the "nd Fife and Forfar
That stuck it out a bit more.
I was trying to look for my Photo of Iron Duke for you and I
spotted ADAMANT at Bovington strutting its MG out.
I think mine is set near enough with the joint in the barrel about
equal distance from the Armor.
Hope thats a help for you mick
Cheers
Phil

Just a bit more to the above Mick.
IRON DUKE the Turret MG was hidden behind the Gun.
In the same set of photo's Tank T334903 at Kubinka Russia was
showing the Turret MG further out and they had painted their
tracks like yours
Further down Tank NINA at Hong Kong Museum Coastal Defence
was showing steel pipes sticking out of the Hull Mg spot,the Turret MG spot and would you beleive out of the Gunners Site.
They must have been worried,or a few cards short of a full Deck.
Cheers
Phil

Hello Phil, thanks for your reply.

I have gone for the short version of the turret M/G. The barrel pulls out of the cradle on Steve's M/Gs.
So I drilled through the tank at the cradle/Mantlet, and out the back of the Mantlet, into the turret.
My wiring goes into the turret and the gun barrel is a push fit, it looks ok, and I have seen this shorter version in photographs.

I fitted the hull M/G using it's full length, and screwed the retaining plate I made up with a brass plate and M3 Hex screws.

I hope to complete the wiring this weekend....just wanted to be sure I would not destroy the 'Timer' by charging at 24v....and not disconnecting the 'Timer'. I may still fit an on/off switch. I was thinking of charging the batteries using the Accumate lead through the gunners hatch....just a thought.

Any progress on your Comet, Phil......Mick

Hi Mick.
You will be ok charging with the timer unswitched because there
is no circuit on the 24volt side of the timer until you operate the
Main Gun sound and the little relay switches.
You still have the option of putting a Tammiya connection on the
timer power supply and using the accumate lead for charging
and the power supply to the timer and disconnecting at the
gunners hatch.
Or as you are and a switch.
Ive been doing some more Cam nets a bit more for on the Tank
and some just as stowage.
I havent started with my Turret inside detail yet other than the
lights.
I need to make my mind up if I am going to continue trying to get
decent smoke out the Barrel and a Recoil system.
Cheers
Phil

Hello Phil, ok, thanks for your reply....I will put a switch in the 'Timer' power lead, as I have now decided to 'charge' at 24v using the Armortek/Accumate leads, with access through the gunners hatch.

I have fitted the 'Timer' unit in the hull, I spotted a space behind the PSU. Fits nice and snug, I have retained the full length lead, just in case I move the 'Timer' to the rear of the hull. As you know I am able now to use the space forward to fit two crew members.

With my limited experience, the area within the turret will have to remain clear. I do not think I can construct the turret interior. I am more than satisfied with what I have achieved, so I will leave well alone. I do have many additions to play with....welds etc,. to keep my interest ongoing.

Just a 'moment' of terror yesterday evening....I 'lost' the radio lead from the 'Timer' somewhere inside the hull....I was moving the wiring, when, without warning....it just disappeared.

Mick


Yes....I did find it

Hi Mick
You have done a great job of your Comet build and the paint job.
Like you said you can add detail if and when you want at your
own pace.
I was just about to answer your posting and it started to rain,not
long after I had put another Cam Net on the washing line to dry,
so had to dash out quick.
I had sprayed 2 metal box's that I had picked up at the South West
Model Show,when I went to see the Comet in the flesh,there was only the 2 so I snapped them up not long after going through the gate.
Glad your lead jumped back out at you,the Comet Hull is like
a dungeon for liitle bits,when all your equipment and wiring is in.
If you need any radio leads standard and made up to suit with any
choice of connecters,there is a place your way in Bangor,
Gwynedd.
www.component-shop.co.uk
Also for your replacement Halogen Capsules
www.thelightbulb.co.uk.
I will put some more photo's of my Comet on soon with some more
bits on.
Cheers
Phil

Hello Phil, I have saved those two websites for future reference.

Now, I have been looking for the details, so that I can use the M/G splitter. I thought you gave me a drawing, Phil, can't find it anywhere,(must be with that lead I lost in the dungeons).
Can you run through the process again using the splitter module you made up.
Also, as I understand it, we have programmed switch G to fire the other M/G.

Question, as you know Phil there are three M/G 'sounds' on the Benedini card.
Is there any way I can use the other two 'sounds' I rather like the second M/G .

General question, in my short Army ( REME ) life I have only ever
fired a 303 rifle a bren gun and a sten gun. What are the M/G 'sounds' on the Benedini sound card.
There are three programmed in, the first sound is a long sharp burst, the second, is a heavier short burst, repeated, and the third, again is a longer sharp burst.
However they are clearly all different sounding M/Gs....any thoughts.

Hi Mick
I am not sure what the other 2 gun sounds are but 5 is the Besa.
So I hope someone is reading and can let us know.
Your switch G that we programmed will always allow one Mg to
fire and the other is fired on its own by moving that switch to the
oposite position.
You have a drawing on page 15 in your postings of the MG splitting
Fit your extra Y lead into Channel 7 on you receiver and put the
receiver power cable back into one one of the Y lead sockets.
disconnect your spare lead C on page 8 of electronic manual,
which is the blank firer lead conected into the Auxiliary.
Put this into position C shown on page 9 which is the 3rd switched channel receiver lead connection.
This then goes to the other socket in your new Y lead in channel 7
The Relay I had wired up for you and labeled the leads.
the end marked Mg's goes to your 2 guns and the end marked
to Y leads goes to where your guns were fitted into the Y leads
when they were working.
So you dont need to disturb your Main gun servo lead connection
AS it is now this will stop one gun firing.
The last connection is the black and red wire marked as A and B
to connect to the Auxilliary at A and B the other 2 of the 3rd switched channel
connections.
Red to A black to B.
Let us know if you get stuck
Cheers
Phil

Hi Mick,
You can only use the first m/c gun sound (sound no 5) with the leds as the other m/c gun sounds do not go to an output socket and there is no way in the standard board to re-program it.
Dennis.

That was good to know Dennis,I still went to try mine,its a habit
from when I was a kid
Do you know the answer to Micks other question about the 2 other
machine gun sounds,what guns do the represent?
Phil

Thanks for your replies Phil and Dennis....do you think it possible that someone will come up with a recoil system.....smoke.....and for the tank to sit back on it's tracks....now that would be worth a second look.

Looking forward to the day when 'she' rolls of the production line,( dining table ). I think my wife is as well

Ok, on the M/Gs, I must say the front view of the tank with both guns blazing is exciting....strange, that as one gets older the small things in life are the most enjoyable.....mick

Hello Phil, question....as you know, all Tamiya/Tamiya Type connectors have the positive side on the square side of the plug.

I am about to change the Armortek connectors for Tamiya, and run the leads from the battery/PSU to the rear of the Comet, for charging/isolate and ease of access through the rear deck doors.

Now...I have spoken to Accumate, who use Tamiya Type connectors.....who have said that the positive side on their chargers is the ribbed cable/half round end on the Accumate connector.....not the same as Tamiya.

I just want to be sure I am making the correct decision. I know it may sound easy....but to my mind where electrics are concerned I will be using Tamiya connectors the wrong way round. I guess this is ok?????......Mick

Hi Mick
Yes you did right by checking and confirming.
All Tammiya connections that I have used on my Armortek
Tanks
have been done the Accumate way with the red positive on the
U shapped terminal
Better that way and no confusion then,with colour to colour.
Cheers
Phil
I have found a nice aluminium pillow block with a linear frelon
20 mm bearing and I have found a fella on the industrial estate where our factories are,who will turn and bore me a part with the
threaded end to match the Comet Barrell,and the bore will be
big enough to carry the Halogen cables and a tube for the smoke.
So I can carry on developing my Recoil/Flash and Smoke
Cheers
Phil

Hello Phil.....thanks for your advice....it seemed strange that the leads are that way on the Accumate...however as the man said, " we send all our chargers/leads/plugs out that way" . He also said their plugs/sockets were not tamiya.....ah! but, I said, they are tamiya 'type'.....yes he said.

As you know Phil.....I'm not trying to be clever about this, electronics confuse the life out of me. So I am pleased I asked the question. I will now attach the tamiya type sockets/plugs to match the positive side of the battery and positive side of the Accumate charger.

I will watch your progress with the'smoking gun'.

I would be first in the queue for a recoil/smoke/etc,. however 'setup costs' may well be prohibitive