Armortek

Hi mick
its looking good glad you got your smoker sorted .I am like you when it comes to electrics ,i just dont get it at all ,but what i find with these tanks is they make you do things that you wouldnt normally try and do .they just look so good ,so keep at it and im sure you will prevail .
best wishes
nick

Hello Phil, I have decided to stop messing around, ...and go for it. I know Dennis will post his method....I thought his parts were from America though, I will fit the toggle switch, no problem.

Any road up ( black country slang) I would be extremely grateful for your assistance. I will PM you.

I am keen to try any option..... so I would appreciate your help, and perhaps I'm not as thick as I appear. I fixed my PC at the weekend, cancelled the engineer.

I had downloaded Windows 8, apparently one of the drivers needed updating....which after much trial and error, I managed to achieve. So, we now have Win8 I think it is Beta trial issue. Looks good, with loads of add-ons. The text is very fine and clear with every item in the window...no need to scroll along....alls well that ends well....

Thank you for your post Nick....there are some areas like electronics where a black cloud decends and my mind will not register at all. I understand simple circuits, and thats about it. The Armortek modules are straight forward plug and play. I asked Gills advice before I took the plunge and purchased the Comet. I have to say the build has gone well, with lots of help from the Forum..... Mick

The Relay and Timer connections and showing connections of all 3 guns
to Amplifier.


The cable assembly for the Halogen connection

Hello phil, thanks for the diagram, re turret flash. can't say I understand it all, but I am now determined to complete the main gun flash . Tested the options last night ready to fit the limit switches.....don't you just love that big gun sound....

Question, I am about to fit the bar across the turret that holds the sub loom. I seem to recall a small problem with this item, way back in the build....can't find it now. The bar fixing holes do not line up with my bar. Also your sub loom bar is a different shape to mine. My turret bar is as per the photo in the instructions.

Now it's no big deal, I can re-drill the locating holes in the bar. I am correct in fitting the bar across the center of the turret ring???, as your is further forward.....Mick

Hi Mick
Yes the bar needs re drilling,Mark did give us the size's but I cant
remember where,its here some where,but probably quicker to assemble.
Dont go by mine I have adapted it to fit up the front so I can leave a
clear area for some inside turret detail.
I was always going to have a go at the turntable and seats etc and after
Sarah told us about the article on the Comet in the AFV mag it has a lot
more detail of the layout,so now I must have a go.
My bar still does the same job and I have also fitted a clip to hold
the limit cable loom down out of the way of the gun site.
Cheers
Phil

Thanks Phil, yes I remember now....I will fit my bar as per the instructions, it's no problem, as long as I keep the loom clear.

I altered the front plate, and relocated the PSU to the side, to accommodate two crew, just head and shoulders. I have kept very much to the build instructions otherwise to avoid mistakes.

Phil, I can follow your diagram, if I do get stuck I will ask. Just a point I have my M/Gs on one Y lead, I have not split them....do you think I should split them, or is it just a matter of choice.

I have posted my decal requirements to Pyramid Models. I have gone for the Comet listed in Surviving Comets.....Iron Duke.

Thanks again....Mick

Hi Mick
Even the simple drawings can look complicated,but dont worry you will
only have to make 6 connections and they will be marked.
RE MG's
Your MG's are firing ok together at the moment by the sound of it,so yes
it is personal choice to split them up so they fire seperate on a radio
switch.
The switch is easy to asign just like asigning the one for the Amplifier
Module Channel 5,the rest is a relay that always lets one or the other fire
and the switch swaps to the other gun.
This can always be done at a later date and with a relay that does not need
any soldering,but in a socket with screw terminals.
Also I can help you with this one aswell if you want,because you already
have the one lead,that you wont be using for your Blank firer now.
Another 2 go to terminals that are already available at the Auxiliary unit.
So the only tricky bit is splitting the led wire's for the relay connections,
and I could pre do that for you using an extension lead and marking it up.
It was John who orriginally saw that it might look funny the 2 firing
together if you have the MG Flashes and then thinking about it more,
with the sounds,it would be difficult for two gunners to fire in unison.
I've only just thought of that,I need a lie down now
So your Comet can be how you want it,how far you go is up to you
and all these bits can be done at your speed.
Hope your decals turn out good,look forward to your pictures
Cheers
Phil

Hello Phil, ok on the M/Gs....I will probably split them later.

I should have followed your advice when fitting the gun elevation drive, there is very little elevation. The depression is ok....anyway I spent a couple of hours cutting 6mm extensions for the bracket to the turret.
Have not had time to test it....but there already looks to be more elevation. I remember you did the same thing with your main gun.

Never mind, I need to slow down again and think things through....will save me time in the long run....I am just looking at a system to charge the 12v batteries while in the tank.....I can get at them in situ.....bit on the tight side.....might lose some skin from my fingers ...Mick

Hi Mick
Re elevation
The starting position of the elevation nut on the thread can be
experimented with to get the balance between how much
elevation or depression you get.
But because the elevation bracket was hitting the turret front too
soon,that was why I packed out with 6mm square packers.
This gave me the full use of the available threads and by trying
a few starting positions with the nur I got the max out of it.
Another good reason not to miss out the limits.
RE MG splitting up
Give us a shout when you decide,I will help you out,its easier than
all the wires make it look.
RE Battery charger.
Like all the other topics and opinions there are different choices
and views,which has all been said before.
My choice as you know was the 12 and 24 volt charger Accumate
Pro,that was recommended on the forum and I have never
regretted it.
With the charge lead that was supplied brought out to the
beautiffull big doors of the Comet its a quick plug in job.
The charger is fully automatic after selecting 12 or 24 volt and
fully protected for the odd forgettfullness
I cant think of any of the above benefits being outwayed by
charging the 12 volts seperately,which the Accumate could also
do.
The big bonus for me is the charging cable is a 24volt power
supply for my Main Gun equipment,because it has a tammia type
connection and I just made up a lead myself.
Hope the first 2 bits of info help and hope the charger bit hasnt
give you a worse headache.
Cheers
Phil

Hello Phil, no.... that's no problem, if I work carefully and at my own pace, I will get there. The Comet has been quite an experience, I have enjoyed the past months and have no regrets....I still stand looking at tank and wonder how on earth I got this far. It's a far cry from two channel gilders and two channel boats.

Thanks for the advice reference the gun elevation, in the back of my mind I knew you had made some changes.....I was short of the longer cap head screws after fitting the 6mm spacer, I have ordered them. The turret bar is no problem, I just need to relocate the holes.

I will have a rethink over the charger...I am still using the single 12v. Ordered my toggle switch and Y lead. As I have said many times living in the countryside is peaceful....it's just a nightmare when you need modelling accessories....Mick

Hi Mick
I have sent a couple of PM's to you one last night and one this morning
but they are still stuck in my outbox for some reason.
I have made your gun flash and tested it,I have it at work and can post
today if you let me have your address by email.
My email is on my profile now,or as below
fitzpatrick337@btinternet.com
Cheers
Phil

Hello Phil, received your PMs this morning....I have not been on line until a few minutes ago.....appointments.

Thank you for your help, look forward to installing the gun flash.

Screws arrived today, to extend the drive motor for the gun elevation.
I fitted the turret space bar, secured the smoker pipe work, I have narrowed the copper end pipe while I was fitting, to increase the volume where it exits the smoker.

My batteries are on charge, hopefully for the last time with my 12v charger. Ordering the 24v Accumate this afternoon. I also intend extending the charging lead for the batteries to the rear doors of the deck.

My toggle switches have arrived marked on/off, which will replace the smoker switch.

Question, is it absolutely necessary to isolate the batteries when not in use, or just an option?

Hi Mick
RE battery disconnection
I think the equipment might draw a very small amount of current,
I think this has been mentioned before.
But its a habit from my Helicopters where it is a must and I have
done it in both my Tanks.
Then it is easyier to disconect for over night or long periods of
no use,and also if you are doing any work involving any disconections of cables.
Posted the Gun Flash this afternoon so hopefully it will get there
before the weekend.
If your charger comes before you fit the gun flash and you want to use the lead as the 24 volt supply its the large Tammia type
connector.
So if you dont have any let me know and I will put one onto a pair
of cables and post it to you.
! would just need you to confirm which colour cable goes to each of the holes.
One is Square the other is U shape,Tammia do it the oposite way
to my accumate.
Cheers
Phil

connector

Hello Phil, thanks for that....charger will arrive Friday. I will eagerly await the gun flash. Both 12v batteries are fully charged as of today.

Ok, on the battery lead, do you use a 'switch' to isolate the power, or disconnect the batteries. I guess it would be awkward to get at the batteries.

Let me try and work it out....a switch that can handle the current between the main battery cable and the PSU? Would the charging lead also need an isolating switch?

Yes...I'm sure I have seen this discussed on the Forum before. I have not yet got the hang of the 'search' facility. When I type a word or post I am looking for...I get loads of pages. I have not worked out how to reduce the number of searches returned....

I have just reread your post Phil, I would appreciate the cable and connector...I have only ever used Tamiya in my boats/aircraft...thanks again....Mick

Hi Mick
No problem with the lead and Tammiya connector,when your
charger arrives,if you look at the connector on the end of the
water proof permanent lead,you will see the shaped connector
holes that I mentioned,one square one U shaped follow the wires
down to the battery terminal end and let me know the colours
black and red,where they go to.
RE isolating switches
I brought all my leads out to the bid doors and just disconnect
the battery there via the connector.
Because you will be using the charge lead as I am for the
supply to the Gun Flash,I just pull the connector apart at the
same time as doing my battery,so I have no switch.
I think Dennis uses a switch up front for his battery set along
with his charging point.
I do have an Isolator switch at the back next to my smoke
switches in my Photo's.
This was from the Panzer 111 build and it Isolates the power
supply to the speed controler.
Not neccessary now on the Comet with the new electrics,but I have still fitted it to Isolate my tracks if I am raised on a table and messing about,just incase I catch the engine sticks.
Which I have done when doing my little vidio's of the Guns and
exhaust.
So not neccessary if you dont want to go to the trouble,but after
buying a book in Ireland on Murphys Law's I am a firm beleiver
I cant remember when I was buildin my Panzer who sudgested
the switch,It might have been Dennis,but they recommended
a 2 pole 2 terminal on off switch 16 amp,and with the terminals connected gave you a 32 amp switch.
I have a drawing I did for Nick on photo bucket,I will put it on
your post for you to save the searching.
Its another one of the many choices to make.
Cheers
Phil