Armortek

Nice work there.
Regarding the spring returns for Futaba, I got one recently through my local supplier recently. http://radiocontrolledshop.ie/345-futaba-parts
This is the part for 7C Y-MA8036 Spring Return Kit for ST36
He had to order it for me but did'nt take long. Official futaba stockist. They cost about £2.50. Just in case anybody needs one and cannot get a homemade one.

Regards
John

Hello and thanks to all who replied regarding the Futaba Return Springs. As this is my first 1/6 Armortek Tank....I will through trial and error find a suitable answer. I have made a note of the options.

Question time, the two main batteries once fitted will remain in situ, so charging them is my question...I have a charging lead with the kit. Can you charge both batteries using the lead connected permanently to one battery??

I have two of Steve Winstone's M/Gs, If I connect the receiver plug to the 'led' lead, can I then just plug it into the receiver using channel 6 or 7. At this moment in time because I prefer the 'flash, with main gun sound, rather than the Blank Firer, I will have a spare channel.
I ask this, because I am pleased with my 'Sounds' and electric's and do not want to screw things up....

Hello Adrian, Panther....in my dreams,.... Mick

Hi Mick
Your charge lead will connect to the battery bank at the end where most
of your leads are connected and the choice is whether you take it to the drivers door or to the big doors at the back where I have got all mine going to.
I did the same with my battery connection to the power supply module,
so I could disconect the battery at the rear.
Your Mg lead goes to the little 3 pin connector on your amplifier module
not your receiver.
When you operate your Mg the gun will flash,if it doesnt,try the main gun then if the Mg flashes then reverse it round and the Mg will flash when you
try it again.
Do you have 2 of steve's Mg's?
If so you will need a Y lead,connect that into your amplifier Mg
connection first then you will have 2 sockets one for each gun.
You may have to extend the mg connections,depends on the length of
your y lead.
This will let the Mg's fire together,if you want to split them up its a bit more complicated but looks better.
You need a 24vdc relay and a diagram off Dennis,John or me who I know have done it already.
There is a bit of soldering to do,have you done any in your past modeling
before?
Cheers
Phil

Hi Mick
RE Radio receiver leads.
I forgot to mention in my reply,you can get ready made extension leads
for your Mg's in lots of sizes so you dont have to make any up, you can
get them same place as your Y leads.
Cheers
Phil

Hello Phil, sorry to be a pain.....battery bank??.

With my aircraft/model boats, I have always charged each battery pack separately...the exception being the TX/RX.
The two main batteries in the Comet are 12v each, connected to supply 24v....will I need to charge both separately??.
Sorry for the mix up.
Thanks for the info ref the M/Gs...I have two of Steve's M/Gs....however I will be quite happy to have one working at the moment....I know it sound crazy, but electronics are a black art.

I can get a Y lead and connect to the AMP...and I can solder.

If I understand you correctly Phil, I can fire both M/Gs at the same time, but to fire independently I will need to change things using a relay/soldering etc,. Not sure I am up to that.

I have been busy this morning ( wife goes to a day centre Thursdays) arranging the 'Options'.... looks neater now.
I have found the power supply lead to speed control to be short, (length). swapped it for a longer lead.

Just a comment...I have a slight noise on the R/H sprocket. it was there when I fitted the gear....called a 'witness' I believe. Where the gear catches the side of the casing...sprocket moves freely though....Mick.

Hi Mick
Sorry about the battery bank bit,I was in the Signals,1st Staffordshire
Regiment,and we had 4 big 12volt batteries connected in Series paralel.
I was refering to as you guessed the 2 x 12 volt batteries connected in series to give 24 volts.
So depending on what charger you bought,if it will charge both 12volt and
24volt you can connect your charge lead to where your battery lead B is connected to,and both batteries will charge at the same time,which is the best way to do it.
Just getting a Y lead will let you have both MG's firing but to have them
firing seperately,you will need a relay dual pole dual terminal.
I mentioned 24vdc because I used my third switched channel that you
will see in the auxiliary manual section and asigned switch G on my
Futaba7c to this.
Also in the 24volt range it is easier to find relays that will fit into a base
with screw terminals,bit more expensive but easy if you are not sure about
the soldering.
I used this type of relay and base on my main Gun so it was easy to
experiment with 12volt and 24volt Halogen.
Re gear box/witness marks and noise.
I made a gasket up for mine,but even that relys on the adhesive holding up.
Cheers
Phil

Hello Phil, I have one 12v charger.....so I will purchase a 24v charger. Then with one connection, using the lead supplied to B, I can then charge both batteries at the same time...brilliant. Any thoughts on the type/make of charger??

No problem with the slight noise on the R/H gear, I do remember you fitting the gaskets....I think Mark said as long as the gear is not binding, it will be okay...this sometimes does happen.

I would like to have a go 'splitting', the M/Gs, to fire independently, can you advise me what parts I will need, I would prefer the non solder type.

I have moved both the PSU and the AUX nearer to the speakers to try out. The idea is to allow more room for my tank crew, driver/gunner.

Finally, the 'Staffords' strikes a cord....I was born in Walsall, most of my mates joined the Staffords, National Service in those days.... now of course called the West Midlands.....moved to Wales when I retired....Mick

Hello Robert

You are better off with a 12v charger than a 24v this is because 12v chargers charge to you get around 13.5v. Where as with a 24 you get around 25.5v.
You get a better deep charge with a 12v one. Therefor longer running time with a 12v charge. I have found that with a 24v charger the batteries dont last long and Knacker up quicker.

Lee

Hi Mick
I use the Accumate Pro its a 12 volt and a 24 volt charger and automatic.
The details I sent you before its on Page 9 in your Postings.
At 24 volt it charges at 3.5 amp max and reduces,like all these autamatic
things you take them on trust.
The optimum charging current is 1/10 of capacity,so too large a current
and too faster charging shortens the battery life.
Ive got other more expensive chargers for my Heli's and the big Lipo
batteries which are more dangerouse,and I stick rigidly to the 10% rule.
But I am pleased with the Accumate Pro for my Tanks.
If you already have a 12 volt charger that you like you could use this,like Lee said.
But if you want to avoid taking your Turret off to charge each battery
seperate,I think you would have to bring 2 seperate charge leads to the
front or to the back.
Re Mg's
I will get a little simple drawing done in in our language and have a look
on RS Components site and pick out a relay and a socket so that you can
look at the pictures,incase you can get them cheaper else where.
I used a little relay and soldered leads to the pins,cheaper but not as easy
as the screw sockets.
I havent forgoten about the Main Gun flash either,so I will get that done,
but Mg's first.
I have still got to get round to trying out the 75 Watt and 100 Watt
Halogen capsules I found for My Gun,so it has the potential to be twice
as bright as my 50 Watt vidio's taken in the light and the dark
Cheers
Phil

Hi Mick
Further to my reply above if you have already got your Y lead and some
extensions.
Its worth connecting them all up and see them both working,its fun to get
them going and atleast you will know they both work before splitting them up.
If your leads are Black Red white(the Mg's only use the black and red),
try the Y lead connector onto the 3 pins on the Amplifier Module
with the Black to the rear,that works for mine,If not and the Mg's flash
when you operate the Main Gun sound,just turn it round,then they should both work on selecting the MG sound.
The extension leads to the Y lead just match up the red and black colours.
Cheers
Phil

Phil, thanks for your advice, Lee thank you for your advice. I will have a quiet think and decide which route to go. It will not be a problem to charge each battery individually.

I am busy with the gun elevation and smoker at the moment, I do want to try the M/Gs and eventually the main gun 'flash'. I will look forward to that.

Getting late now....time I was in bed.....thanks again lads...mick

12v chargers charge to you get around 13.5v. Where as with a 24 you get around 25.5v.

I use Accumate Pro 12/24's and leave them connected all the time. Checking with a meter, when the battery is charged and its in the maintain phase the 12v gives around 13.5v and 24 gives 27-28v - more when it is in the bulk/absorb phases.

John

Thank you for your reply John. I will make a decision with the batteries. I have had my turret turn working and the gun elevation.
Phil, there is only limited movement up/down on the gun. I believe you changed something or added a plate to increase/decrease the gun elevation??

Still trying different positions for the modules.....to increase the space available for the crew.....Mick

Hi Mick
I've been having computer PAINS this week end but I'm back up
and running with a bigger faster one.
Yes there was 2 things happening with mine.
despite making sure of no burrs and that the elevation nut moved
freelly in its slot,it did stick a bit so I dropped a bit of 3 in one oil
on it and that sorted it out,I will grease it one day.
The other thing was the bracket was bonking the turret front too
soon and restricting using the full length of the leed screw.
So I packet the elevation assembly away from the hull with a
couple of 6mm square aluminim bar drilled to suit the screw's
but using slightly longer screws to suit.
Ths gave me after recentering the leed screw,a dip in the Gun down to about 20mm off the Vent on the hull front and a good
height more in keeking with the full size Comet.
I am sure I put some photo,s on my postings and you can see the packing.
Sorry I should have looked for the page number first.
Cheers
Phil

Hello Phil, and thank you for your help....I will find the post regarding the elevation problem. I will order the Y lead and extensions in the week.
I have worked a little more space at the front end, to include the gunner and driver, ( I never could fly a model aircraft without a pilot).
Every time I make a change I test the 'sounds'. I also extended the power lead from PSU to the Speed Control. The internals need a tidy. I should have the Smoker in place this week.

I had thought the 'Options' pack would have taken longer to install, so I am really pleased with my progress. I have, probably, two weeks clear to work on the Comet before more important appointments take over.

Think I will just fire the main gun again.....Mick