Armortek

Adrian
Scratch CO2.
How about Butane and a glow plug.
I did say "not a good idea"
Youngjae
Recoil, The Centurion with an Armortek setup I have seems to work ok.
I'll have to wait and see what turns up and take it from there.

A few days ago, I designed and placed an order for the rebound of my chieftain.
The springs arrived today and finished the installation and tried to test drive.
The results worked just as well as I expected.
The pneumatic solenoid valve will arrive in a few days, and the recoil part will be completed.
Everything is going slow these days.
And yet, I'm so happy when the little things I calculated fit perfectly in the real world.



Youngjae

Hi Youngjae,

Nice to see your recoil modification on Youtube. Very cute.
Just a silly question: Do you still use a bigger counterweight, or change it back to the stock one?

Regards, Lerh Chang

Chang wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 26, 2020 6:25 am

Hi Youngjae,

Nice to see your recoil modification on Youtube. Very cute.
Just a silly question: Do you still use a bigger counterweight, or change it back to the stock one?

Regards, Lerh Chang

I have just installed the 6mm lock collars to the left and right to finish mechanical changes to the recoil.
My principle is to prepare Plan B on the condition that all basic parts provided by Armortek are used and changes are minimized.
The weights will then be applied to the base, and the main gun will be raised and lowered, and the main gun will be lowered, and the main gun will be stabilized, so that if the problem is not too much, it will be replaced by a larger, heavier pendulum, which is Plan B.
Therefore, I will not use the big pendulum that I prepared last time yet.

Youngjae

I am doing a thorough maintenance check on my Chieftain in the spring from today.
The other day, my Chieftain was reinforced and reassembled because of heavy weight and severe test drive.
During an additional full disassembly check today, the loose bolts in the tank were fixed to loctite and found that there were three missing bolts.
I'm cleaning, tightening and greasing parts of my Chieftain all over again.
I cleaned and dried the underside of the body and all the tracks and finished painting today.
I'm very fun to do this kind of repair.
I am reassembling the turret and main gun stabilization system and new re-coil system in this repair process.

Youngjae

I am working on the turret part of the stabiliser as the motor I ordered arrives.
I removed the old turret motor and gear and installed a new motor, gear and bracket yesterday.
I requested laser cutting today by modifying the bracket for two additional motors for synchronization.
The reason for the modification is to eliminate interference with the main body.
The motor was divided in parallel to properly distribute the torque due to the rotation of the turret of the heavy Chieftain, and the rpm of the motor was increased by about 66% compared to the previous one in order to expect a rapid reaction of the numerical safety shoes.

I'm also very curious about the consequences of this change.

Youngjae

I just got back the bracket that I requested for laser cutting by modifying drawing in the morning.
After work today, I will mark the turret and pierce two holes.
I will use a combination of two holes with an existing turret fixing bolt.

Youngjae

Youngjae, are you going to use one motor for normal turret turn and the other two motors for turret stabilization?

Vince

Interesting concept, if that is the case, as the turret turn motor and gearbox will add quite a bit of drag to the system.

I would think that the two stabilisation motors need to be well matched, so they don't fight each other.

When I was looking into the whole stab system, getting enough power to spin the turret, but under complete control and with no overshoot was a significant problem. It looks like Youngjae has designed in enough power for that, it will be interesting to see if they have enough speed and damping.

Adrian.

Vince Cutajar wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 05, 2020 11:36 am

Youngjae, are you going to use one motor for normal turret turn and the other two motors for turret stabilization?

Vince

The three motors I replaced this time are all synchronized to normal and stabilization.
The turret is so heavy that the torque control is too much for the one of original motor to attempt to stabilize it horizontally and distribute the turret's torque into a row with three motors.
And the original turret motor is 60 rpm, but this time I applied 100 rpm. This is to respond quickly to horizontal stabilization.
I placed the motors yesterday and took into account the clearance and backslash of the gears.
I measured the gap between the turret and the bolt holding the turret ring yesterday.
And I asked for laser cutting today in the morning by drawing.

Youngjae

The spacer that I ordered in the morning arrived and I installed it in the bracket for inspection.
Also, I think I will be able to finish some maintenance check on my Chieftain this week because of the arrival of the missing reamerbolt during the test drive.
However, the actuators and GYRO for vertical stabilization have not arrived yet.
So this wait is likely to continue next week.

Youngjae

When I got home, I made and installed two missing reamer bolts.
It is fixed by a powerful red loctite glue.
And I installed motors with spacers and brackets prepared today.
Gear and turret were installed to check for interference while operating.
I got the results I was looking forward to.

Youngjae

Last time, the transmitter and receiver worked perfectly on the bench test.
But when my tank went down to the ground, there was a problem and I tried to find the reason.
Especially, I did not know the reason why such problem gets worse when I turn the pivot on the ground, so I finally found a problem with my Chieftain main gear on January 23 and solved the problem with the help of Kian.
It was an error caused by a heavy Chieftain test drive, which caused the main gear connecting pin to fall out and the power was not transferred to the sprocket.
After that, I reinforced my main drive motor and connected gears in my own way and installed the main gear again today.
I learned from this experience that Chieftain, whom I met for the first time in contact with RC tanks, must be maintained at a relatively short interval at an appropriate time and that such a point of inspection is known.
I would like to inform the owner of the chieftain that regular inspection of the main gear is absolutely necessary.

Since the main gun actuator will be installed at the bottom of the turret, it should be positioned so that there is no interference during rotation. Considering such interference, various option packs are rearranged.
I connected the three turret motors that I installed yesterday in parallel today.
As everybody knows, parallel connection is required to produce the same torque for each motor, and the torque of each motor can control the torque of the heavy turret.
Cleaned, newly painted tracks and reinstalled side skirt.
And for the last time today, the pneumatic solenoid valve arrived and connected the tube to the recoil system.
I am happy to imagine the change in your Chieftain after the renovation.

Youngjae

Hi Youngjae

You certainly go "all in" when it comes to innovation. It's interesting watch differing views trying to reach the same objectives, I wish you well with the mods you have invested your time and money in to and hope you get the results you want realised.
One aspect of your build serves you well, that is you have kept the simplicity of the access to the drive systems. Regular checks may be easy for yourself, but others may find that access is not so easy without removing /damaging detailed parts of the upper rear deck. The hiding of retaining screws and filling joints is common place, so breaking down and opening up will not be something most will relish.

I'm sad to see the damage to the drive output shift. If you lost drive to one of the sprockets it is hard work to move the model on your own.
I know I had a KT break a track. Both tracks had to be removed to be able push the model into the garage for a strip down. I dread to think what it must be like in the field, trying to push the model up the ramps into the car on your own.

You are very industrious indeed! Good to see you working so hard on the stab. When I saw your driving video I did think to myself that you where going to break something......and you have !
Like the real thing it's heavy it's powerful and if driven without respect it will break. Kian did say that the new motor and gear box units for the Chieftain had enormous torque.
Looks like you are enjoying yourself, and the good thing about these kits is that if you are a little over enthusiastic and break something it's all fixable!
Some grease may help when you rebuild, although not endorsed by Armortek I prefer to fill the cavity around the gears as it can't do any harm.
Regards Phil