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Very posh battery cell kit! I'm old school and happy with gell acid. The two 17 amph will fit under the load bed and sit on the torsion tubes, I may try that but you would need to move or lose the winch

Phil Woollard wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 17, 2018 10:54 am

The worn gear shaft is not true, probably not centred in the chuck during machining so it wobbles

Hi Phil,
Do you have photos of both the "crooked" and the replaced good gear shafts? Thx!

Regards,
Lerh Chang

I don't have a replacement yet, one end of the shaft is maybe .4 of a mm out of true but that's enough to bind in the brass nut/bearing and so not turn smoothly, when the bosses are back in January I will order another or i could drill out the offending end and silver solder a new shaft in it's place. You would not be able to see the offending shaft in a photo

Good morning Phil,
the center hole of the brass nut is ab little bit to tight, thats true. I made it with a 'reibale' (don't know the englisch word) about 10µ bigger. Now with smear fet it works perfectly. Normaly you don't need this at brass material but in this situation its better to smear enough...

Came across this wonderful photo of 5 Famos involved in towing a Tiger 1, the photo id says there are 4 Famos pulling a Tiger 1 but I think the fifth one is about to hook up as well.

I know this famouse photo... I think the first famo is only with his winch connected to the secound, for giving help tos start moving the tiger.
Normaly 'only' 3 famos you need for a tiger. Without a track on one side it woul be easyerly to move...

'reibale' = 'reamer' auf Englisch

Adrian.

Thank you Adrian. Reamer... never heard that bevore

Nothing very exciting with the build at present, I'm still wiring. I am using the front kit boxes as convenient switch positions, the main isolator, the on off and the ancillaries all easily accessible and to hand in the drivers side kit box. The flip up indicator holders have been reduced in thickness so the boxes have enough room to be functional, you could also reduce the rubber seats width instead.

Thats also a nice idea Phil. Did you make the boxes smaler?

Hi Florian, I've been researching the later vehicle kit boxes and they are all sizes but most seem to be above the seat height so I have left as is, I'm rubbing down the tool marks on the front fenders right now, that's a long job!

Good morning Phil,

I make it the easy way with th tool marks. The same way like on the front. With spatula after cleaning the alu I think its ok. BUT how do you make it with the form? - The Famo fenders are more round?! - The late Famos are the way they are in the kit, but than its the wrong front, and the fenders are shorter in the front. How do you build this?
The late Famo also have a bumper on the front. I don't know jet wich way I'll go.

Florian

Good morning to you Florian, I am using a power file to remove the tooling marks on the fenders ( i will post some more photos after a full day in the workshop later) and then emery paper to flatten and finish. It's a bit confusing ref the body type differences but then anything could have been put together late in the war to make up a new vehicle, I do like the look of the rounded fenders , although not correct for a late. I do like the look of the front bumper and will almost certainly add this at some time ( although it would make the Famo even longer), I should get a good six hours of build time in today, that's if I have no interruptions!
I intend to mix up the various colours and finishes including the canvas covers to give the vehicle some depth and interest, as if it's seen some work in the field ....Phil.

Hi Phil,
I like the early version too. Its also the right for my special Famo from north Africa.
Maybe I build the hole fender by my own. Don't know yet. There are some possibilities.

You know there is tons of extra material on the Armortek fenders, so it may be possible to round off profiles. I will maybe have a go in an area that is hidden and see what it looks like!