Armortek

Hi Mick,
Regarding the bolts fouling the psu that is why I redrilled the turret tiurn motor moumting bracket and positioned the screws that hold the bracket to the hull top further back under the turret ring.
I use a switch in the live between the psu and the speed controllers to act as a kill switch also used during maintenance.
I also have mounted a charging socket on the plate as well saves taking the turret off to charge the batts.
I have the same batts as you and both mine are laid flat with a gap in between for the turret motor, when I spoke to Mark about layout he had to mount the batts flat for the blank firer. I don't have one of these as I am doing the flash triggered by the main gun sound.

Dennis.

Hello Dennis, thanks for your reply.....at the moment I like the PSU plate in it's reversed position.

I understand how you adapted your fittings...I needed to be sure there was room for the 'blank firer'.
However, I do enjoy the sound of the gun on the 'sounds' module. I would be interested in a ' gun flash 'to go with the sound, it would be very realistic. Perhaps you will post a display and description when you are ready.
I think it would be a pity to waste the main gun sound....on the sounds board.

I purchased the batteries after seeing your post...they are very good, I finally managed to charge both....took quite a while, they fit in the hull very well. I will fit a charging socket later....mick

More work on the Comet.....I have followed advice and placed the 'speakers' in their own packing, polythene I think, I tried to glue the packing parts together...no joy....using poly cement. What glue will hold this packaging please,???.....Mick

Fixed the packaging....Evostick....mick

Hi Mick
Looks like its all coming together now for you.looking good
I was just going to say the impact evostick and you found it.
Cheers
Phil

Hi Mick,

You have a PM.

Dennis.

Would you believe that I know exactly where every plug and socket goes....................they are all carefully labeled.

Had my first operational/sounds test today......all's well. I have found one or two wires a little tight depending where you fit the modules. No problems, lovely to see the sprockets turning.....and yes, I did remove the tracks first.
I guess the sprockets turn clockwise to travel forward??. I could be wrong there......should the R/H sprocket turn clockwise, and the L/H sprocket turn anticlockwise??
My wiring on the motors LH/RH were connected wrongly and at first, did not match the TX .....just switched the leads over.

Hi Mick,
Anti clockwise to travel forward.
As regards one going clockwise and the other going anti clock depends if are you going to use single stick control or twin stick. You can reverse the channels on the tx to correct if you are using twin stick, it's a bit more complicated if you are using single stick. I drive with single stick, I find it easier.
Also have you got a spring return on the left hand stick or is it on ratchet, it is better to have it on spring return as the rhs stick is.
I can probably make you one up from some scrap plastic, let me know. as they are difficult to get hold of, a bit tricky to fit.

Dennis.

Hi mick getting on well with your comet,i am like you ,electrics are not my strong point ,i always worry if this or that is right .keep at it ,you have got a nice looking model.I would definitely sort out the rachet on the left hand stick like dennis has said for safty ,if you accidently knoked the stick thats on the rachet your tank could spin round,and those motors take alot of stoping. I did this to my own tank in the beginning with almost disasterous results.
keep at it best wishes
nick

Hello Dennis hello Nick, thanks for your replies and comments.

I have the Futaba 7c 2.4GH, set in mode 2. So the ratchet is on the left stick.....I was looking to have track control on two sticks. I would like to remove the ratchet...... without the ratchet, both sticks will feel and react the same. I believe I can simply take the ratchet out....or have I misread the instructions, Dennis.

The other question is , is it necessary to have an isolating on/off switch, and I notice some inline fuses , on Phils Comet, I really need to keep the electrics as simple as possible....Mick

Hi Mick
Your ratchet will just undo with one screw and you will have both sticks the same,keep it safe incase you change your mind
I use 2 sticks and I have even tried a ratchet in both,but I went back to the
ratchet just on the left.
Its all personal choice,no ratchets is Safety Mode
I like my ratchet on the left as it is because its easier to use the sounds on
the move stearing with the speed on the right stick,and operating the 3
position switch with your right.
Re My fuses and cut off.
Cut off switch is safety again my cut off isolates the tracks and I can still
mess arround my battery is disconnectable at the rear.
My 2 fuses are for my exhaust I have an Armortek one but I fitted Richie Wignals,one for the mister board and one for the elements.

Hi Mick,
First an apology about the anti clock and clock dir of course it depends which side you are looking at, if you are looking at the lhs then anti clock is forward, vice versa for the other side. The way to remember it is the sprocket turns top to the front for forward (as old accounting machine engineer we used that term).
Regarding the ratchet you first of all remove the ratchet assembly and then you have to install the spring loaded centering piece of plastic. It is a bit tricky but I will make one up for you with a spring as I think they are a bit difficult to come by. I will let you know when I have done one and you can email me your address and I will pop it in the post. When you go to fit it if you look at the way the one is fitted on the rhs stick you will see how it is done.
As regards isolation switch I only fit one because there was a problem with the early speed controllers which caused the motors to operate before the radio synchronised, but it has been sorted now on the new speed controllers. I still fit one but it has to be a 10 amp double pole switch with the 2 pol;es strapped together to handle 20 amps of current the motors use under load.

Dennis.

Ok, Phil and Dennis, your advice is just what I needed. I fully understand the track rotation Dennis.
(when I first connected the motor up and switched the TX on....the L/H motor went one way and the R/H motor went the other way...totally confusing me) It is quite clear now.

I can see your reasoning Phil, good idea. I will try the part that Dennis is making, then see which I am comfortable with.

I would never have imagined the complexity of these models, you need to be focused and keep your eye on the ball.

It seems a lifetime since the kit arrived in September.....nevertheless I have enjoyed every moment. As I have said many times the Forum is a wealth of information, provided by some very clever, helpful members.

My workbench, four months on.......

Looks tidied enough to start a Panther

Adrian