Armortek

A little tease from tomorrows coming post.

Hello Phil
Hope you don't mind my asking, I have No34. I have been putting the the larger parts together to save space. I am working on the running gear and have found the hub caps do not just screw in nicely.
After some work i have sorted the idlers. Being aluminium don't wish wreck such an investment. Could you please advise on this issue, yours seem to fit perfectly and I like the inspection fittings. I will now be raiding my outdoor gear repair box.
Many thanks for a very useful stream.

Charles

Hi Charles, you need to run the ali idler threads over a rotary wire brush if you have one to polish and deburr, failing that use a hand wire brush then a little oil on the thread and all should be fine. Ali threads "pick up" and bind terribly if they are at all tight, it's easy to clean up the male thread but more difficult to clean up the female. Hope this helps if not let me know.

Morning Phil

Another great build blog thank you very much.

Can I ask what reference material you using for your bible please. I like the drawings you have there.

Keep up the good work.

Kind regards

Andy

Hi Andy, I will check which book/books I am using for reference later, for now photos from Tuesdays exploits

Like the detail in the road wheels Phil, looking very good. Now you've used lock nuts, did you use the same length hex head bolts as the original cap head bolts?

Hi Richard, the kit size standard cap head length will be slightly to small, so you would need to use longer bolts ( technically they are screws as they are all threads) and cut to size, best carefully measure the length that you require as some lock nuts may vary in length. If you study photos of the 1/1 wheels the bolts protrude ever so slightly past the nuts as they should, so factor that in.

The first pair of road wheels have the shock absorbers are all but finished, and four more to complete today. Looking very closely at the reference photos of the wheel hub, there is just one more tiny hole to detail which I shall machine today.

My God I have done it, I've corrected the rear belly plate and the rear plate, it is a compromise and it's not for the fainthearted! More details tomorrow.

Cheers Phil

Your advice has worked nicely so far, re sorted idlers hubs and starting the road wheel hubs next. Track bashing presently. Given I am new to these models & thus fainthearted, I like what you have done to the back of the hull, but I will just watch for now. If you don't mine may I copy your idea of replacing those bolts underneath?

Cheers

Hi Phil
A top job your doing as usual, Do you have the dimensions for the rear plate/belly plate mod you have done. No point in re-inventing the wheel if I don’t have to.
Regards
Steve

Thanks Charles and you carry on don't mind me it's all for the common good!
Steve are you referring to the the whole mod as in the rear angle adjustment or the access plates dimentions?

Hi Phil,
it will not be easy!
Just a curiosity: the tank model does not open this way,
only the doors can be opened.
Thanks Ivano

i have to agree with Ivano, unless your going to make structure changes to the model deck, it will be impossible to remove the dummy motor/gearbox.

Coming back to the idea of a light weight possible Vac formed "dress up" cap over the model motors.

Unless it's going to be a static mode?

Now if you were to build a ARRV, that's a different "kettle of fish".

Like the extra holes in the road wheels, did you make a jig template?

I may cut the deck out on ours so this can be done but you are correct only the hatches open, the photo is for your engine position reference only.
More photos from yesterday. Has any one assembled the suspension units yet, if so please email me!