Armortek

I'm sorry to have brought this subject matter up during the festive period and getting you guys all worried! I'm sure there are better things to worry about than return rollers.... like Christmas turkeys or the in-laws!!

Manny , you are being realistic.
The Chieftain crews worried more about the top rollers than they did about the roast turkey or in-laws
Mark

In laws and the chain saw affect ? Mmmm

I think Richards right. but I'd use cutting fluid, easier to clean up.
Armortek will just point to the running tanks and say "what's the problem"? You could make pre-emted strike and turn down the wheel internal bosses first, as originally thought, weaker grant you, less hassle, hoping their'll wear in evenly.
Or just clip the track horns.
I spent 2 hours building 15 track links to my liking, six times, I'm not sending them back for mods for anything.
Larger tyres are larger tyres. their big already. 4mm wider on the diameter of the return wheels, who knows, don't think it will happen.
Just one of those things.
The prototype originals weren't short of a few problems either.
After the initial surprise, I think I'll make a decision closer to track fitting, hope fully the little grey cells haven't departed by then. 2021

One of the old hands probably has a better "cunning plan" "trick of the trade" " modality" better than mine anyway. or maybe experienced this type of thing before.

I'm sure we'll see.
Ps I rather be on the forum than entertaining the inlaws.
Happy hols Chieftain clan

Hi everyone
First off, this is my first Armortek build, I was hoping to have chassis mobile (manually at least), by the new year.

May I put forward a suggestion that may or may not result in battering our rtn rollers to pieces:-

1/ As mentioned, reducing the inner boss, how's about taking off 45 degrees for 2mm from the top/outside. This would create V between the two wheels.
2/ Not everyone has access to a lathe (a useful observation only)
3/Chainsaw effect, as one who uses one regularly, I would not like to consider the potential damage to the model or systems there in, whilst the tracks get comfy.
Therefore the V may result in less overall damage, possibility.
4/ Richard G. suggestion, Locktite when fitting. I get 6mm/wheel, therefore 12mm overall in depth wrapped around the axel too.

Many thanks Manny for highlight this, especially as I have built my tracks already.

Cheers all and have a good new year
Charles

Charles A Stewart wrote: ↑

Sat Dec 28, 2019 8:06 pm

Hi everyone
First off, this is my first Armortek build, I was hoping to have chassis mobile (manually at least), by the new year.

May I put forward a suggestion that may or may not result in battering our rtn rollers to pieces:-

1/ As mentioned, reducing the inner boss, how's about taking off 45 degrees for 2mm from the top/outside. This would create V between the two wheels.
2/ Not everyone has access to a lathe (a useful observation only)
3/Chainsaw effect, as one who uses one regularly, I would not like to consider the potential damage to the model or systems there in, whilst the tracks get comfy.
Therefore the V may result in less overall damage, possibility.
4/ Richard G. suggestion, Locktite when fitting. I get 6mm/wheel, therefore 12mm overall in depth wrapped around the axel too.

Many thanks Manny for highlight this, especially as I have built my tracks already.

Cheers all and have a good new year
Charles

Charles,

Just wanted to clarify that its the manual that says the rollers are secured to the shaft using loctite; it wasn't my suggestion!

the manual that says the rollers are secured to the shaft using loctite

Are you sure about that?
I don't have the chieftan, but I happened to see the roller assembly diagram on Phil's thread. As I see it, the rollers a free-wheeling on the shaft. The Loctite is for attaching the rubber wheels to the rollers and also for attaching the brass bush into ES0221.

Vince

Thanks both.
Apologies Richard,I misinterpreted thread & Vince has a point.

If rtn rollers are free on shaft, not cemented, the aforementioned chainsaw effect could be quite vicious.

Should they be "connected",clued to axel. Would the damaged be more limited?

Cheers Charles

Vince Cutajar wrote: ↑

Sat Dec 28, 2019 9:07 pm

the manual that says the rollers are secured to the shaft using loctite

Are you sure about that?
I don't have the chieftan, but I happened to see the roller assembly diagram on Phil's thread. As I see it, the rollers a free-wheeling on the shaft. The Loctite is for attaching the rubber wheels to the rollers and also for attaching the brass bush into ES0221.

Vince

That's an accurate interpretation.
I made it like this, and the roller shaft rotates freely.
Youngjae

Vince,

If the return rollers free wheeled on the shaft, there would be no need for a bearing or a brass bush. If someone said the diagram wasn't very clear, I would agree with them. I agree that the outside of the rollers is earmarked with an L and that this relates to fixing of the tyres but I believe this has a double meaning in that the rollers are also secured to the shaft with loctite. With the rollers and shaft operating as one, the shaft will rotate the inner bore of the bearing when the wheels rotate with the shaft being supported by the brass bush which is fixed into the main body itself with loctite, the bush being lubricated by the oil on the shaft thereby preventing wear.

The above is what I worked out but more than happy to be corrected on this if this is not the case?

When the M6 nut is tightened up this locks the return rollers onto the shaft and this ensures that it is they rotate with the shaft

The drawing would be a lot clearer if the bush was shown in the housing, rather than on the shaft.

At first glance, I would assume the bushing was to be treated in the same way as the idlers and glued to the shaft with them.

Adrian.

Mark Russell wrote: ↑

Sat Dec 28, 2019 10:11 pm

When the M6 nut is tightened up this locks the return rollers onto the shaft and this ensures that it is they rotate with the shaft

I stand corrected Mark/Vince/Charles having just tried that myself! my apologies although that nut will need Loctite since it easily comes undone. Think I will still Loctite them onto the shaft anyway just to be doubly sure. :wink

Richard

I think you are right. The rollers are not free to rotate on the shaft. Thinking about it, it's not a good idea to have aluminium rollers rotating on a steel shaft. Maybe they are fixed to the shaft by the M6 nut and washer at the end of the shaft.

I guess that's what happens when trying to interpret an assembly diagram without the physical components at hand.

It will be interesting to see how this situation will develop.

Vince

While letting the track horn cut a groove into the rollers is a solution I'm more concerned about the beating the brass bushing and the bearings are taking whilst the track horns are whacking the hell out of the rollers. Imagine being hit in the head by Mike Tyson a 100 times,something will come loose... your neck,your teeth,your brain....you get the picture!