Steel tracks on Armortek models?

[Jerry Carducci]

Marine outboard motors have a pin in the propeller that breaks if the prop hits an underwater rock. The propeller will be busted, but the transmission saved. Maybe something like that?

I haven't even run my first Armortek model yet (the M3 I'm presently working on) and I've been reading this thread with interest. I'm already updating
my 'recovery procedures and spares requirements' to accommodate these larger models.(!)

Even though they are smaller I've had some experience with drive line failures on my 1/10 scale models- at 60 to 100 pounds they still are not
fun to retrieve if something breaks a way off from my tools. I have used sheer pins at the final drive of some of my larger models- better the pin than something more costly. Knowing I can break one makes me cautious where and how I run- I am very conservative how I run any of my tanks but mistakes can easily be made. I hate breaking tracks. When I get to the builds of my Tigers I want to make sure either nothing breaks or I have an iron clad way of retrieving the model if I'm out somewhere with it.

Jerry

[Adrian Harris]

> have an iron clad way of retrieving the model if I'm out somewhere with it.

The simplest way is to split both tracks and drag it on the road wheels. Done that a few times at shows

The larger tanks with larger diameter road wheels roll quite easily once the tracks are off.

Adrian.

[Christoffer Ahlfors]

> You want the weakest spot to be something cheap and easy to replace.

I can't think of anything cheaper or easier to replace than a broken track link.

Adrian.

Agreed, but the most likely event is that you stretch the entire track to the point of breaking, thus deforming and weakening it.

[Christoffer Ahlfors]

The next best thing would be to convince AT to harden their aluminum alloy in their tracks and to increase the height of the drive sprocket teeth by 2-3mm, which would (I think) solve the track durability and slippage issues I and others are experiencing.

I suspect that most posts pertaining to derailing or skipping are written by people who are trying to get it sorted. Those who have succeeded probably don't spend much time describing their successes. If that's true, it would make it appear as a majority are having issues, which I don't think holds true.

It took me a while to get my tiger1 tracks sorted, too. Getting the chamfers right on the sprocket teeth, both on the sides and front/back, is key, as is the perfect alignment of the sprockets on the shafts, so that the teeth engage in the tracks exactly in the middle of the holes. Lying on the ground, closely observing the teeth engaging the track in various maneuvers is what revealed what needed to be done for me. After that, it runs extremely reliably. It is only after I have had the track and wheels off that it takes a while to get the track tension right again. I run mine with very loose tracks for safety, as I have found that the tendency for the track to climb increases with increased track tension. Quite counterintuitive... And if it does climb, I don't want to destroy anything.

Now, this was for a tiger1. It might be easier or more difficult with other models, but it ought to be similar.

[Christoffer Ahlfors]

The next best thing would be to convince AT to harden their aluminum alloy in their tracks and to increase the height of the drive sprocket teeth by 2-3mm, which would (I think) solve the track durability and slippage issues I and others are experiencing.

I suspect that most posts pertaining to derailing or skipping are written by people who are trying to get it sorted. Those who have succeeded probably don't spend much time describing their successes. If that's true, it would make it appear as a majority are having issues, which I don't think holds true.

It took me a while to get my tiger1 tracks sorted, too. Getting the chamfers right on the sprocket teeth, both on the sides and front/back, is key, as is the perfect alignment of the sprockets on the shafts, so that the teeth engage in the tracks exactly in the middle of the holes. Lying on the ground, closely observing the teeth engaging the track in various maneuvers is what revealed what needed to be done for me. After that, it runs extremely reliably. It is only after I have had the track and wheels off that it takes a while to get the track tension right again. I run mine with very loose tracks for safety, as I have found that the tendency for the track to climb increases with increased track tension. Quite counterintuitive... And if it does climb, I want to have a safety margin for that.

Now, this was for a tiger1. It might be easier or more difficult with other models, but it ought to be similar.

[Gerhard Michel]

Hi Christoffer,

an exactly sorted drive train is very helpful, indeed. Chamfered sprocket teeth (especially at the sides) are essential, and it's not counterintuitive, that a loose track runs smoother, because each link can easier move aside and snap into the sprocket. Some models like the Elephant require loose tracks due to optical reasons, but also other models wear out their drive train when the track tension is too high.

A steel track runs a little smoother and more prototypical due to its higher weight. E.g. an AT Panther track link weighs 45 grams, one of Vincent's steel track links weighs 137 grams; the full track 2 x 12,6 kgs.

[Phil Woollard]

If the drive train is designed correctly and correctly put together with lubrication, all the running gear is aligned as it should be, the idler and the sprocket are perfectly in line, the tracks are correctly designed in conjunction with and to suit the sprocket ( this is a model) then all runs beautifully.
This tigers I build run great with ali tracks and they run great with steel tracks!
If you are having to over tighten the track or having to file the sprocket teeth to get it to stay on something is seriously wrong, I don't very often even chamfer the sprocket teeth these days.
A tight track has no give, a foreign object like a stone has no where to go so a link may break. With steel tracks they don't need to be tight at all, this allowing any stone to simply pass on through without any damage!
This tiger was running great with ali tracks and is running great with Liams steel tracks, no dressing of the sprocket needed!

Regards Phil.

[Tom OBrien]

Phil,

Mine runs fine up on a stand. The trouble comes when it's on the ground. It runs fine in reverse but when running forward, the lighter aluminum tracks want to lift off the road wheels and ride off of the drive sprockets.

I measured the alignment of the road wheels, idler, and drive sprocket and it's all good. I'll try chamfering a bit more but the teeth are already chamfered to a point that I think it would be detrimental to go any further.

I'll continue fiddling with the alignment to see if there is anything I'm missing (there must be something I'm overlooking).

Cheers... Tom

[Adrian Harris]

What do you mean when you say the tracks ride off the road wheels ?

Could you post of picture of this happening ?

Adrian.

[Phil Woollard]

Good idea Adrian, A video or pics would be very helpful. I wouldn't recommend chamfering at all, zoom in on my sprocket teeth and you will see there's just the slightest hint of the contact area

[Gerhard Michel]

The original's teeth were also chamfered; therefore it cannot be bad to chamfer the teeth.

A real heavy track will move the tank before tensing when the tank rolls forward. A lightweigt track will tense at first and then move the tank.

[Tom OBrien]

I'll try to get a video out in the next few days.