Armortek

Starting on the bodywork, the sheetmetal fits together nicely - using the 2.5 button head bolts to test assembly and check rivet access. Degreasing, cleaning, disassembly, dry, prime, paint next!

Hello Eric, I am following your 251 build closely, smart work. I do use other modellers photographs to check my construction. I too am about to start on the cab/engine compartment. I will probably practice my riveting before I start. On a previous kit I riveted I managed to 'mark' the metal plate, I think it's down to my shaky hands. Keep posting the photo's Eric.....Mick

Hello Michael, it's quite easy to assemble all the panels using the M2.5x6 bolts on the corners only (2-3 bolts per panel). That way the form and orientation of the panels (esp the rear triangle pieces, and joiner angles) is established. I also mark the part numbers at this stage.

Then I degrease, clean, and disassemble in sections, before prime and paint - it's easier to me to keep track of the parts before reassembly after priming. And also easier to start the riveting at this stage. I would recommend to start riveting at the front end, leaving the top bonnet off first. And then working backward towards the cab. Of course the long straight rivet sections can be done almost anytime, and good practice areas as well. Ill
Post more pictures later today.

Rivets...need to have long (uncut) and short (cut), the rear door and frame were just nice for the original uncut length of rivet. Whereas in the front cab areas where the rivets go through only one layer (dummy rivets - was tempted to superglue these but the purist inside protested..).

The rear door section assembly went smoothly, only thing to note is the triangular CM0511/0511M pieces have a right and left orientation, even though they look very similar.

HeLlo Eric, Tom Wittstock......your panels and rivets look very good.....Would it be possibe to tell me the make of your rivet tool? Maybe I can get one like yours in my country. Any information on your tool may help me find one maybe on Ebay. I have not purphased one yet and yours seen to be doing a great job.

Hello Tom, it's from http://www.klassictoolcrib.com or do a search for 'Hand Rivet Squeezer' on ebay eg. - http://www.ebay.com/itm/AIRCRAFT-LAND-R ... SwVFlT4LFo


I got the version with the 3" jaw as well. Definitely useful and speeded up the rivet work although it doesn't work well with the 90 deg angles (the tips are a little wide, I plan to turn it down to reduce the diameter). I can rivet about 70% of the rivets as is.

It helps to cut off the rivets (roughly 1/5) when used on the double thickness panel, and about 1/3 off when used on the single layer panels.

A busy year, packing, moving, unpacking...finally restarting on the 251. Pardon the horrible holes made on the side, lots of adjustments I made trying to get the mountings 'right'. I promise the other side looks better!

Welcome back Eric

> Pardon the horrible holes made on the side

Body filler will cover pretty much anything

Adrian.

Hi Eric,

Glad to see you are progressing. If you look at my build there were a couple of other mods I made as well re-positioning the air intakes. Will be calling in to Singapore for a couple of days on the way to New Zealand in January.

Dennis.

Thanks Adrian, and Dennis,

Luckily those 'horrible holes' would be covered up by the air intake boxes once mounted, it should have been a straightforward measurement and translation to move the holes lower to clear the rivet line, but I must have been careless or didn't account enough for the slope/slant when relocating those holes as the mounted boxes were a little askew and I have to tweak the holes a bit.

I've been following your builds and it was hard not being able to do work on mine (being in boxes for a move).

Dennis, I'll be glad to grab a meal or drinks should you have time in Singapore. I might need to pick your brains on the motion pack installation as well

More details and pictures to follow!