The Official Armortek Forum - World leader in one sixth scale metal kits

Happpy days, the sound module is now working as advertised. It does help if you plug the wires in the correct slots after all Now to start fitting it all into the tank!

G'day Daniel,

I've just done mine but feel it's not right. I followed instructions with the LED going solid. Set the motion requirement for it to accelerate then full speed with the toggle forward then middle. At this point it goes back to LED blinking.

It seemed like I couldn't get that last forward/middle before switching off.

When I started tank up I got engine start up and idle. When I accelerated I got full speed sound, but not a gradual grunting. When I stopped driving it didn't return to the idle sound just driving sound.

Is this the same for you or does yours idle, accelerate, de-accelerate and then idle?

Cheers
Ray

I've just done mine but feel it's not right. I followed instructions with the LED going solid. Set the motion requirement for it to accelerate then full speed with the toggle forward then middle. At this point it goes back to LED blinking.

It seemed like I couldn't get that last forward/middle before switching off.

When I started tank up I got engine start up and idle. When I accelerated I got full speed sound, but not a gradual grunting. When I stopped driving it didn't return to the idle sound just driving sound.

Is this the same for you or does yours idle, accelerate, de-accelerate and then idle?

The final set up for mine went like this:-

1. press the button to set the idle
2. move the stick forward to where the motor just started moving - switch 5 down and back (got a burst of noise)
3 go to full power on the motor and repeat (got another burst of noise and it beeped complete)

Tested and I got the on/off start noise and throttle progression.

Thanks Daniel. Followed your process and and fixed.

Cheers
Ray

Progress!

After lots of dis-assembly then days of frustration trying to get the tracks on I had given up on the 'beast'. Now, thanks to support from Mark and Gill I have a new track tensioner (threaded the first one) and newly machined front trensioner trays.
I fitted the drive motors and drive chains as I realised that it would be easier to to that before the tracks went on then rebuilt all the rear plates I had removed for access.
Finally today the moment of truth - the track that had beaten me first time around went on with only the slightest of fuss.
Now onto the right side...

Looking Good, Daniel
The second track goes on in a fraction of the time of the first track, thankfully! I can see a large huddle of people on Armortek Day chewing the fat over how we all managed in the end to perfect our own techniques. I hope that I will have run the tracks in good and proper before I need to take them off, so some extra slack will have been worn in!
If any one wants to phone me about it, PM me and I will give my number out.
All the best
Steve

The right side track is now on (amazing what a difference the removal of a little metal can make). It fought a bit but it came together in the end

Next step, hook up the batteries and see if it works...near disaster as, after a few tentative tests I got one track jammed at full forward and dropped the controller! The tank dropped off the lift and I nearly gave my self a hernia trying to stop it crashing to the floor, not my best moment.

Anyway the main news is that No.35 is now moving under its own power, still plenty to do but the milestone is reached

Hi mate. Excellent work. Feels good when you finally get your 'baby' taking it's first steps. Hope you enjoy running it as much as I do running mine.

Cheers
Ray

More testing, I seem to be getting some track binding in reverse, not sure what it is fouling on at the moment though. Meanwhile I fitted the sponsons and the speakers and spend a while annoying the neighbours with the noise
Next up is the roof and rails but I am trying to figure out how I can mount them and still have some access into the tank...

Daniel -

You're a bit ahead of me, but I had a look at the issue of the roof and the unditching rails today, and I think I may have a solution for you.

The issue is where the unditching beam goes. It's more of a problem if you do it according to the build instructions, as you'll have to take that off first. If you put it in the later historical position (as discussed at length between myself and Steve Stuart) then it's nicely out of the way at the back of the tank.

The only point where the unditching rail fixes to the roof is at the support EK0647. I can't see any way of avoiding that, so just bolt it finger-tight and remove the bolt whenever you want to take the roof off. The roof should then slide out between the rails.

Personally, I'm going to leave the Stop Plates (EK0652) off my build, especially as my unditching beam will be at the back. If you tie the unditching beam down securely on the top they shouldn't be necessary. The holes at the top of EK0647 will need to be filled, either with filler or a rivet.

Hope this helps. If any of the completed builds came up with a better way, or if Mark has some tips, I'm sure we'll all be agog to learn !

Chris

Further progress, got the rails attached and the spud box re-attached. Just the top plate to finish once I sort out a solution to getting access to the batteries etc. The left track is going to have to come off to sort out some binding issues and to replace some lost screws but after the trails of getting them on I am postponing it until I get to 'play' some more

As a last piece of testing before I take the tracks off (to find out what is binding) and secure the roof I wanted to see how the Mark IV would get along with my new ramps:-
Placement on the car seemed ok so I lined it up...
Pushed forwards and up it went!
Still got to make a support to hold it in the boot but that can wait for now. Onwards to October

It's always the little things....

It was all going so well, I took the tracks off to replace some missing screws and find out where one track was binding (as well as other maintenance) and that went well.

Getting the tracks on however - one track was no issue, the other is proving a major problem. It comes down to one track plate that refuses to come off. One screw came out fine but one just spins in place and the remaining two instantly stripped out the hex head so I have no way to remove them.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to remove these? As things stand those three tiny screws have terminal implications...

Hi Daniel
My technique is to use a 4mm bit for a 3mm bolt and drill the head off the bolt. If the head spins I then use a Dremel Drill with a burr (a grinding head may also work) to grind the head off, a slightly more messy process which overcomes any rotation of the bolt head.
I hope this is of help?
Steve

Steve,

Thanks for that I will give it a try. Sadly even if it works I will have to run with some missing bolts on the tracks as I no longer have any spares, but if I can get the track on again I will be happy.