T1 overhaul

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Mick Coleman
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Re: T1 overhaul

Post by Mick Coleman »

Thanks so much Mark, I'm going to fix the idler tomorrow and try rewiring the sound. I'm not giving up on this old girl I can tell ya that. I'll also fit the tracks tomorrow and take her for her first run. :wink:
Armour:
1:6 Challenger 2
1:8 King Tiger
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Mick Coleman
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Re: T1 overhaul

Post by Mick Coleman »

Can I please ask if you have fitted recoil to a T1 that you post a picture so I can get an idea? I'm happy with the servo mount etc, I'd just like to see how builders went from the servo horn to the barrel and what they used to join to the barrel.
:wink:
Many thanks Mick
Armour:
1:6 Challenger 2
1:8 King Tiger
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Mick Coleman
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Re: T1 overhaul

Post by Mick Coleman »

Also...............sorry for the 101 questions. Can I try a different approach with the sound unit.
Can anyone running one of these units detail the use/connection of the wires left to right please.She's a 2003 issue. :wink:
Image
I read it as:
7 Earth
6 Power
5 Function (what ever that is) :lol:
4 Right track, does this grab the + signal from the receiver to the right track?
3 Left track, does this grab the + signal from the receiver to the left track?
2 speaker
1 speaker
Last edited by Mick Coleman on Tue May 29, 2012 9:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
Armour:
1:6 Challenger 2
1:8 King Tiger
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Adrian Harris
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Re: T1 overhaul

Post by Adrian Harris »

These are the connections:

1 - Green Wire = Speaker
2 - Yellow Wire = Speaker
3 - Grey Wire = Left Track From Receiver
4 - Orange Wire = Right Track From Receiver
5 - White/Red Wire = Function From Receiver (Engine Start/Stop)
6 - Red Wire = +24V
7 - Blue Wire = 0V

There is a wiring diagram in the Armortek Gallery here:

http://www.armortek.co.uk/Gallery/index ... grams-3-15

Adrian
Last edited by Adrian Harris on Tue May 29, 2012 9:47 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Mick Coleman
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Re: T1 overhaul

Post by Mick Coleman »

Adrian Harris wrote:These are the connections:

1 - Green Wire = Speaker
2 - Yellow Wire = Speaker
3 - Grey Wire = Left Track
4 - Orange Wire = Right Track
5 - White/Red Wire = Function
6 - Red Wire = +24V
7 - Blue Wire = 0V

There is a wiring diagram in the Armortek Gallery here:

http://www.armortek.co.uk/Gallery/index ... grams-3-15

Adrian
Thanks mate, not the best with wiring diagrams. :lol:
Last edited by Mick Coleman on Tue May 29, 2012 9:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
Armour:
1:6 Challenger 2
1:8 King Tiger
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Mick Coleman
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Re: T1 overhaul

Post by Mick Coleman »

More questions if I may, were the smoke units of the time proportionate? Also how did the turret turn fit into the equation?
Armour:
1:6 Challenger 2
1:8 King Tiger
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Adrian Harris
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Re: T1 overhaul

Post by Adrian Harris »

> were the smoke units of the time proportionate?

The element was on all the time, so it was usual to add another switch to save battery power if you wanted to run with no smoke. The element is 24 volt, 48 watts, so takes 2 amps all the time it is connected.

The fan was connected to one of the track motor outputs, so only ran when that track was moving forwards. The fans don't operate when the power is reversed, which is handy as they'd then suck the smoke into the insides of the tank :shock:

> Also how did the turret turn fit into the equation?

The turret turn motor is controlled by an Electronise relay unit, using one of the receiver channels

Adrian
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Mick Coleman
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Re: T1 overhaul

Post by Mick Coleman »

Thanks mate, that relay unit what's that?
Armour:
1:6 Challenger 2
1:8 King Tiger
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Mick Coleman
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Re: T1 overhaul

Post by Mick Coleman »

Also, the red and white wire. Connect that to a channel on the receiver?
Armour:
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1:8 King Tiger
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Adrian Harris
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Re: T1 overhaul

Post by Adrian Harris »

> Thanks mate, that relay unit what's that?

One of these:

http://www.electronize.co.uk/switchers.htm

Takes an RC channel and uses it to switch the 24V for the motor. The way the contacts are wired means the motor can be operated in either direction from the one unit.

> Also, the red and white wire. Connect that to a channel on the receiver?

Yes. Needs to be proportional though I think, rather than switched, otherwise you'll get the machine gun sound running all the time.

Adrian.
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Mick Coleman
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Re: T1 overhaul

Post by Mick Coleman »

Good stuff mate. + or - for the red and white wire. Must be +. Silly question I guess. :lol: What channel would you recommend on a 6 channel aircraft reciever?



We're getting there almost done! :lol: :lol: :wink:
Armour:
1:6 Challenger 2
1:8 King Tiger
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Mick Coleman
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Re: T1 overhaul

Post by Mick Coleman »

Hey good news, I've got a few of those relay units.
Armour:
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1:8 King Tiger
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Adrian Harris
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Re: T1 overhaul

Post by Adrian Harris »

> + or - for the red and white wire. Must be +.

It fits on the signal output from the RC receiver. There are three connections on these.

1 - 0 volts
2 - 5 volts
3 - signal

So the Red/White wire needs to go on the signal connection.

> What channel would you recommend on a 6 channel aircraft reciever?

Mine used to go on channel 6 on a Futaba 6EXA, so the pot could be used to control the engine start/stop and gun. Newer Futaba 6EX 2.4GHz transmitters don't have this as a proportional channel, which is why I've hacked mine and added more channels.

One a 7C, you could use the flap/trim pot on the front, which is also channel 6.

Adrian.
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Mick Coleman
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Re: T1 overhaul

Post by Mick Coleman »

Mate there's light at the end of the tunnel now! Thank you so much for your help. I'll be continuing the overhaul tomorrow.
Armour:
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1:8 King Tiger
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leesellars
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Re: T1 overhaul

Post by leesellars »

Hello Mick

Those electrize units for the main drive are not very good. They use car relays and they can fuse shut under full load. Causing the tank to move under its own power. Try and upgrade to the new Armortek system or at least 4QDs

Lee
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