Armortek

More progress to the deck tools and the front fenders. the crew external vent cover has had the incorrect lower section simply turned down but with a shoulder left in place to allow the correct gap height from the deck.

The mudguard slides are from Werkstatt - 5, I think this picture is what you are looking for

Cheers Mark, that's the Johnson!

I'm back on the case, the Protze is now in Germany and the Cruiser will be on it's way to Florida very shortly. Finished the front fenders, started "first filling" of the plate tenons, the small hoist lugs are in and some milliput welds in place.

Nice work Phil.

Did you add the triangular support under the Bosch lamp bracket?
I used it to cover the wires under the welds.

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=754

Kind regards
Kent

Not terribly exciting as I am well into the zim application stage, so a few days with my head down now.

Nice applications Phil.
Looking forward to see more of that

Phil

Love this build! I like the way you explain what it is you are doing and how you do it and the reason why you do it! This is of great help to me as a novice Tiger 1 builder.

How do you get the filler caps right down as mine are real tight and have a 3mm gap, also what tool do you use? I had to use a bottle opener as that was wide enough and had a blunt edge.

Many Thanks Allan

Hi Allan, nice to know my words are helpful, we could almost write a workshop manual! Those filler caps were tight so you have to clean the threads up a lot, I use a rotary wife brush which destroys your finger tips but works really quickly, basically the threads are proud so you have to wear them down, you could use a file also but that would look messy.

To tighten the filler caps I used a piece of flat ali stock that just slotted in the cross, then a small adjustable to turn the ali with some force, the Ali is softer than the brass so it won't damage the cap even if it slips out!

Regards Phil

Not much to show I'm afraid.

Thanks for the updates Phil. What colour did you paint the tow ropes? Gun metal? Will you be doing the same for the track rope?

Vince

Hi Vince, I tend to create my own colours by applying the upper coats over the tacky base coats, in this case matt black over still tacky matt grey, I sometimes use red oxide to, then rub away at the cured paint (randomly but don't over do it) until it looks about right. Highlight with a dry brush to finish, that could be buff, flat ali, mud what ever you have in your paint box really.

You must be much like me, up and at it at the crack of dawn, ive already done a days work before I even get in the workshop!

Thanks Phil. Will have to experiment. During my build, the thing that worried me most, is how to finish these three ropes.

Vince

Phil, you're doing a great job with the Tiger, an inspiring build to follow. You're showing the limitations of Milliput and you're pushing it as far as it will go. Once it gets below about 1mm in width, it has problems and the detail suffers. 1mm in 1/6th is of course 6mm full size, which is unrepresentative of a lot of weld seams, so however fine you make it, at the smaller scales it will still look out of scale. It's also difficult (and tedious) to represent the weld beads with a stylus. There is also a problem with its fragility and inability to stick to outside bends, in areas such as seam welds. For those, there is a remedy, using fabric paint. I've mentioned it a number of times and this is the sort of result it can give, without a lot of effort:


The paint dries with a degree of flexibility, so if you bash it, it will come loose but a dab of cyano always fixes that. It's the only way I know to beat the limits of Milliput. It's also a lot easier to apply, just put it into a syringe and squeeze it out along the seam in dabs.

The engine bay parts arrived yesterday, and more milliput applied. I have used the trade name "milliput" more than once