Churchill 58

[Andy Cameron]

Thanks Gary….agree the hammer was a panic measure as the thought of trying get them out was weighing heavy. Yes one bush head did slightly deform on one side, but as it was on the pivot shaft that moves between the carrier frame a clean up with a file removing only a small amount made it fit nicely in the frame. Must buy a bigger vice.

[Andy Cameron]

I did consider drilling one bush out (the slightly deformed one) and fitting a spare but it was such a minimal effect it seemed unnecessary. I have a 8mm reamer in the post for the hangers which in some cases need fettling also. Next big step in parallel to building is to bench setup/test all the options modules. Get ready for the cry for help on that one once I decide on a suitable radio, nothing too fancy so thinking about Spektrum 6e/i or similar.

[Andy Cameron]

Very pleasing to finish a build sequence, if somewhat slowly.

Glad the above is now behind me

[Andy Cameron]

Arriving at the above involved, you will see I opted for grease on the axles just my personal preference.

[Andy Cameron]

Hi all

A couple of newbie build questions, up until now I have primed and top coated all parts individually and thereafter assembled sub assemblies. As I move onto sub assemblies like the idlers I was thinking of building the assembly and then priming/top coat after assembly to allow easier fitment etc obviously taping up axle etc with the tyres fitted last. from what I have experienced so far paint build up at parts seems minimal so just wondering what others have done with such sub assemblies.

[michael hilton]

Good evening Andy, over the years I have purchased a number of various sized sticky backed labels, square, round etc,. I use these to blank off the bearings, then masking tape wrapped around the idlers to protect the surface where the tyre is fitted. Prime, undercoat, topcoat. Most, if not all my painting is managed using this method....just my choice. Hope this helps...Mick

[Andy Cameron]

Thanks Michael I will forge ahead….we’ll crawl ahead (need to stop coming out the garage) using this approach on such assemblies.

[Andy Cameron]

Hi all, can I ask for some advice on the drive sprocket assembly on section 11. I am probably reading too much into this but the sectional view shows the taper lock bush being slightly proud of the hub face at the widest taper end. As the instructions on the following page say to “gently to square it up” tap the bush after seating it with grub screws then tighten finally once more I want to confirm if the bush does sit slightly proud I.e. don’t over do the final seating stage trying to get it flush. Prior to this stage the instruction say to locate the bush in the hub and “shaft” at this stage the final drive shaft is not installed so if I fit the taper bush into the hub without the drive shaft present am I inviting fitting issues of the drive assembly later down the road at section 14.

[Andy Cameron]

Ok I read re-read and read again the manual and now have it clear for the taper bush assembly which should occur at drawing 14 so all good. Moving on to section 14 CP1233 motor mount is shown as being bolted to the hull assembly EX0104 using x4 M5x20 CSK. I can’t find these anywhere and the fastenings list shows no inclusion but does show M5x12 CSK should it be these, although the thread depth on CP1233 would suggest longer bolts . I looked in the motion pack to see if the M5x20 bolts are there with no luck.

[Andy Cameron]

A good day in the workshop.

[Andy Cameron]

Hi all

My build is still plodding along front idlers in (with re-painting needed but they spin nicely)

So now to the rear drive sprockets where I could do with some confirmation, it all looks quite logical and I believe that so long as the main drive gear EX0220 is butted up against the 6002 bearing face once everything is tightened then good to go. On mocking up there is adjustment possible of the taper bush either with its face flush to sprocket housing or slightly below as per the

Is this irrelevant so long as the main gear drive has no lateral movement and the taper bush face is at least flush to the sprocket housing or just recessed below.

[Andy Cameron]

Having had another good look at this my way forward will be:-

Bearings set as required and I will use green wicking Loctite on the bearing outer race just to hold them even though the larger bearing is a slight interference fit and I inserted after freezing the bearings and then heating the enclosure. I am not using bearing lock on these ones.

The main gear shaft I will Loctite to the inner race of the larger bearing probably using bearing compound ensuring it is butted up against the bearing face to ensure a slight gap between the main gear and the hull side. This now gives me a solid point where the shaft cannot move laterally. Now I can use the taper bearing to fit the drive sprocket to the shaft with some lateral movement of the sprocket on the shaft possible for track alignment courtesy of taper bush have some movement possible laterally on the shaft .


The smaller bearings in the hub are a looser fit so I will use green wicking locktite again to secure the outer race grabs in the hub and then once all assembled I might use a small amount of blue Loctite on the inner race to shaft just as a grab so that if the tracks need adjustment in the future the side plate can be easily removed to allow taper bush adjustment.

Well that’s the plan so far