Churchill Mk3 number 67

[Gary Richardson]

Hi Gary.
Two things so you don't break taps, try starting the thread tapping whilst still in the lathe, you can use you chuck on the tailstock to true the tap to the hole. Some taps have dimples on the back so the tailstock can centre it as well.
Also that's a spiral point tap, meant for through holes, not blind. Try looking for a spiral flute as it ejects the swarf up and out of the hole, your one pushes the swarf down into the hole. Or better yet, drill to 2.8mm and use a form tap.

Edit: When tapping stainless, you should drill 0.1mm larger than normal if you are using a cut tap.

Thanks Sean for the great tapping tips. I am just about to order some new taps following your suggestions.

Regards
Gary

[Gary Richardson]

Good evening

Today was spent finishing off the removable track pins I had started. I am waiting for some more 5mm stainless rod to arrive. I used the lathe to put a chamfer on each end of the pins and a v notch in the centre for the grub screw to engage in. I started with sections of 5 track links using the original knurled pins but may change this to sections of 6 links. This would allow me to use 14 removable pins per track and include 2 individual links that could be removed as the tracks bed in.

Regards
Gary

19 down, 9 to go.

[Gary Richardson]

Good evening all

I have finally completed all the removable track pins, I made 32 in total and I also made a tool to help pull the pins out in the field. Both tracks have now been assembled with 74 links per track. I need to start doing the paint rendering and detailing on the bogies prior to installing them. I will paint them indoors now the evenings are drawing in. I don't want to install them until I receive the modules from Armortek and can plan the wiring and module layout. Some of the switches and charge leads may go behind the pannier hatches to give easy access and the bogies fixing bolts may become dual purpose.
I need to start making the headlights, tail light and convoy light as I want them to work. Not sure my lathe skills are good enough yet but I would like to make them out of brass. Another little job is to try and make a Besa machine gun barrel and the body so add some realism. I have seen lots of photos but would like to find a line drawing of the Besa that shows top and side views so I can gauge how to machine it on the mill and lathe. If anyone can help I would be grateful.

Regards
Gary

Both tracks made up with 74 links and plenty of removable pins

A simple tool with M3 thread to remove the pins.

[Gary Richardson]

Hi all

Just a quick photo of the tracks being etch primed after a thorough clean with Upol degreaser. I am looking to paint the tracks with a bronze/grey base coat to try and replicate the colour effect the manganese gave the steel. This will the have a brown wash, dirt and dust added.

Regards
Gary

A decent day for priming the tracks outdoors

[Gary Richardson]

Good evening

I went to the Tank Museum on Saturday for Tiger day and luckily the weather improved so a good time was had by all. I also manged to get a good look at the Churchill, especially the track adjusters. I am adding detail in that area on my AVRE so I took a lot of photos.
One thing became very apparent, to make it realistic would require a complete remake of the adjusters and the horn plates. As I have already done a considerable amount of work to the front of the tank I decided to make parts that would look reasonable from a few feet away. They will be slightly larger than true scale but that is because the slot in the horn is much larger on the model than in real life. This is not a criticism of Armortek as we have to be realistic about how much we want to pay for the kit. Adding the level of detail required for scale adjusters would push that price up considerably.
I have started with the four stops at the rear of the adjuster slots. They are made from 3mm aluminium and were shaped on the mill. I will tap 2.5mm holes in the horn plates and use a single 2.5mm bolt to hold then in place.

Regards
Gary

Track adjuster stops

To be held in place with a 2.5mm bolt

[Gary Richardson]

Good morning

A quick update to show the conduit and access point for the tow hook Bowden cable. It is made from copper tube with brass detailing and a 2.5mm hole was drilled through both rear plates.
I was unable to find a definitive photo showing how it was routed on the 1944 AVRE but I did manage to speak to one of the knowledgeable members at the Tank Museum and we spent some time discussing it and this is my rendition of how I think it was routed.
I could see on several British tanks that had similar cable devices at the rear the cables entered the engine bay at the top left corner of the inner rear plate. There was a similar cut out on one of the Churchills, so the conduit route definitely ran between the two rearmost plates where the slats are situated. However, none of the tanks had a hole in the outer rear plate that could have taken the conduit but I have a photo of the conduit and inspection bolt going up from the tow hook so its a bit of a mystery.
It just remains for me to clean up the conduit and paint it. I plan to have the tow hook servo operated.

Regards
Gary

Made from 2.4mm copper tube with brass nut and tube extras

[Gary Richardson]

Good evening

Just a photo of the painted tow hook conduit after it was cleaned up. The cable works well so I will go through my servo collection to choose a suitable one.

Regards
Gary

All works and locks in open and closed positions

[Gary Richardson]

Hi all

Another quick update regarding the track adjuster detailing. I have tried to add detail to the adjusters without completely re-machining the Horns.
The strips are 4.8mm x 1.5mm Plastruct and the rivets are 1/16" anodised aluminium cut down to 4mm. I drilled the top and bottom of the horn slots using the drilled strip as a template. The strips and rivets are held in place using epoxy glue. Note: the four holes are not evenly spaced on the strip, the front of the strip has a bigger spacing before the first rivet as per full size.
I am helping out with Rosy the guide dog for a few days so no chance to work on the Churchill but I have got a very nice collection of 1/6 tools from Dave Dibbs that are going in the 8 ton derrick tool box. I will have a go at prepping these ready for painting while Rosy is sleeping.

Regards
Gary

Another addition to the track adjusters to add to the illusion

[Gary Richardson]

Hi all

I now have to make a decision regarding the track adjuster detailing. Originally I was planning on having the front mudguards fitted and hinged so they could be lifted when the derrick is fitted. The detailing has clearance on the outside of the horns with the mudguards but not on the two inner faces of the horns. The mudguard is a flush fit there so no room for the riveted strips plus the bulged covers.
I intend to do a dry fit of all the mudguard components to see what I can do, also to see about the possibility of removing the central section near the turret. In the meantime here is a photo of the painted adjuster detail I have done so far.

Regards
Gary

Top coated with slide in place

[Gary Richardson]

Good evening

I needed a break from doing the track adjusters so I decided to have a go at the loaders hatch. I found some good film footage of the mortar being loaded which showed how the hatch worked and the rough size. I then trawled through all my photos and books and discovered there were a few variations on how the sliding hatches were built. One version has the front of the hatch frame reduced in height with the sliding hatch being level with the remaining hatch which in turn is welded in place. Another has the sliding hatch above the existing hatch giving a higher profile. They all have a bullet shield to the front and some have the ventilator cut back to allow the rails to pass by.
I have made a single large hatch to give stability as the front hatch right side would otherwise be very narrow when the cut out is made. I machined a line across it to keep it looking like two hatches were used. The bullet guard and rails are brass and there will be a brass strip across the back of the rails, this will all be soldered together. I am thinking about soldering four brass screws to the underside of the rails which will then pass through the hatch and keep everything lined up. The bullet guard will be attached to the deck using a similar method this will also allow it to protrude further forward past the front of the deck as per full size. Milliput will be used for the welds.

Regards
Gary

[Gary Richardson]

Hi all

I am slowly making progress with the loaders sliding hatch, yesterday I used the mill to shape the remodelled hatches. The bullet guard is now held in place with two M2 hex bolts through the front of the deck and I have soldered M2 threaded rod to the sides of the sliding rails which go through the hatches to hold the rails in place. The section of the rods above the hatch will be filed down and hidden with the rail welds.
I will post some more photos once I have managed to get the assembly aligned and all the corners soldered and strengthened.

Regards
Gary

Milling the reshaped hatch, the hinges will be drilled and pinned.

[Gary Richardson]

Good evening

The loaders hatch has been primed and assembled. The hatch slides very easily and once the deck is primed I will bolt it all in place and add the welds.
The ventilator had a bit more material milled away to give better clearance next to the rail, it is still proportionate to the amount removed on the full size. There is the possibility of motorising the hatch but that will have to wait until I see how much clearance the batteries will leave.
I have been looking at modifying the front periscope housings so the top has the hinged section plus adding the periscope and lens. The button head screws will also be replaced, possible using flat head rivets filed down to get the correct profile.

Regards
Gary

Acid etch primed ready for red oxide.

Hatch open

Hatch closed

[David Skeldon]

Don’t know if this is of interest .

David

[Gary Richardson]

Don’t know if this is of interest .

David

Hi David

Brilliant photo and not one I have seen before. That looks like the 8 ton derrick I am going to build. I have the Provisional Working Instructions (copy No 2 )that were put together in 1948 and stamped F.V.D.E (T/S) Chobam Lane, Chertsey. The photos in it are fairly small and not as detailed as the one you have shown me. Your photo adds another piece of the puzzle and also shows more detail regarding the undercarriage. I am going to try and enlarge one of the photos from the document to see if it is the same derrick.
Thanks for the photo, it is greatly appreciated.

Regards
Gary

8 ton derrick drawing courtesy of The Tank Museum

[David Skeldon]

His is where complete photo is.


David