Ray's Build ... So far

[Jerry Carducci]

I like it Ray!

A question not just for you but just about anyone.

Am I the only one who feels nervous about putting the speakers in one of these with no protection for the cones?

When it came time for installing those in my Lee I made some wonky screen covers for them to prevent me from poking my finger(s) into them while groping around for controls or cables... Looking at the same ones for my King Tiger I think I want something a bit more professional than the cheesy
screen I used before...

Jerry

[Ray Massa]

Nice additions Ray.

Vince

Thank you Vince. It's been a fun journey so far.

-Ray

[Ray Massa]

I like it Ray!

A question not just for you but just about anyone.

Am I the only one who feels nervous about putting the speakers in one of these with no protection for the cones?

When it came time for installing those in my Lee I made some wonky screen covers for them to prevent me from poking my finger(s) into them while groping around for controls or cables... Looking at the same ones for my King Tiger I think I want something a bit more professional than the cheesy
screen I used before...

Jerry

Jerry,

I feel the same way about the speakers. I measured the hole spacing and I looked everywhere (Amazon, and others) for grilles to fit, and could not find any with the same spacing, so I gave up for now.

-Ray

[Nick Chiocchio]

Ray, Jerry

I too do not like to leave speaker without a grill guard. In my 1/6 plastic Sherman build I mounted speakers in a plastic box and ended up 3D printing a grill guard I designed. I may go that route here also. If I do I will post the stl files somewhere where anyone can access. But have you checked into fan guards or CPU guards? They come in standard sizes for box fans and such so I'm not sure if they will meet the spacing for the Amortek speakers. However if they are close maybe the screw holes can be bent to work? Just a thought.

For smaller speakers on y smaller tanks I used screen repair kits. There are wire meshes you can buy but they are pricy and you would need to manufacture some sort of frame or something to attach them.

Ray, you measured them? Can you share the dimensions? I still have the cardboard covers on mine, still working on arranging the all the electronics.

[Ray Massa]

Ray, Jerry

I too do not like to leave speaker without a grill guard. In my 1/6 plastic Sherman build I mounted speakers in a plastic box and ended up 3D printing a grill guard I designed. I may go that route here also. If I do I will post the stl files somewhere where anyone can access. But have you checked into fan guards or CPU guards? They come in standard sizes for box fans and such so I'm not sure if they will meet the spacing for the Amortek speakers. However if they are close maybe the screw holes can be bent to work? Just a thought.

For smaller speakers on y smaller tanks I used screen repair kits. There are wire meshes you can buy but they are pricy and you would need to manufacture some sort of frame or something to attach them.

Ray, you measured them? Can you share the dimensions? I still have the cardboard covers on mine, still working on arranging the all the electronics.

Nick,

My speakers are mounted in the tank, and hard to get an accurate diagonal measurement on the screw holes, but they are about 5-5/8" on center.
However, Brian Womersley emailed me with a set of grilles that he used that fit. Here is the link, but they were unavailable when I last checked.

X AUTOHAUX 2pcs Grill Cover 5inch Mesh Protector Car Speaker Cover Woofer Grill

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07S8JD7S5? ... PH5B86C5_2

-Ray

[Chang]

Ray , Jerry and Nick ,

X AUTOHAUX 2pcs Grill Cover 5inch Mesh Protector Car Speaker Cover Woofer Grill
may still be available in ebay USA :

https://www.ebay.com/itm/265023049127?h ... amdata=enc

https://www.ebay.com/itm/314456926077?h ... EAAOSw0dxk

Regards,

Lerh Chang
(I have just ordered it.)

[Ray Massa]

Ray , Jerry and Nick ,

X AUTOHAUX 2pcs Grill Cover 5inch Mesh Protector Car Speaker Cover Woofer Grill
may still be available in ebay USA :

https://www.ebay.com/itm/265023049127?h ... amdata=enc

https://www.ebay.com/itm/314456926077?h ... EAAOSw0dxk

Regards,

Lerh Chang
(I have just ordered it from ebay Australia.)

Lerh,

Thanks! Forgot to check eBay. I just ordered a set.

-Ray

[Aaron Taylor]

i goofed up and locked the rear plate in can i countersink the cap screws on the end of the motor and replace counter sink screws to make enough room to install the motor??

[Armortek]

You can replace the cap heads with button heads. I am not sure there is enough material to allow countersunks.

You can also remove some material from the cut out on the rear plate and see if that frees up enough room.

If your rear plate has been bolted in place and the fasteners are fixed with loctite, you can heat the fasteners/loctite with a hair dryer or hot air gun to loosen the bond.

[Aaron Taylor]

Ok thank you

[Aaron Taylor]

Do any of you fill the screw holes after affixing the screws to hide them when you paint...is this even necessary I'm on the fence about it in case I need to get acess to a screw later? The other parts seem to conceal the screws well.

Also welds on the side plates I used jb weld high temp putty as it has a longer work time and stronger than miliput and water /chemical proof due to the external stress the hull may have with mud water etc it works well and makes a decent weld. The rest I use miliput for welds.

[Ray Massa]

Do any of you fill the screw holes after affixing the screws to hide them when you paint...is this even necessary I'm on the fence about it in case I need to get acess to a screw later? The other parts seem to conceal the screws well.

Also welds on the side plates I used jb weld high temp putty as it has a longer work time and stronger than miliput and water /chemical proof due to the external stress the hull may have with mud water etc it works well and makes a decent weld. The rest I use miliput for welds.

Aaron,

I know people who do fill in the screws to conceal them, especially on the main hull area where it is assumed it will never have to come apart. I personally do not fill in any screws that are structural in the assembly as I think one day I may need to get access to some part and I don't want to have to chip away at some Miliput or other filler. Just my opinion. I have filled in a couple small screws that just hold on a small accessory item.

-Ray

[Jerry Carducci]

Not only am I planning to fill in any crew hole that shows where a screw wouldn't normally be on the model I'm building I plan on adding a few more for strength and filling those in as well. I have even considered using 3 or 4mm hard steel dowel pins in addition to or in lieu of screws. These larger hulls are heavy and I'm concerned of twisting forces when running over uneven ground. Perhaps my concerns are unfounded but there it is.

Plus I don't want to fret about screws working loose in the hull. I will always consider leaving some deck or upper hull screws unfilled as is practical as a hedge against having to get better access to model guts. All my smaller ( read 1/10 scale) mostly have removable uppers to allow full access. The way most of these big boys are made the hull basically becomes a fixed box. I made my Lee with the upper hull 'roof' plate removable. Not so sure I can do that with the current model.

Jerry

[Aaron Taylor]

Thank you I appreciate all of your outlooks I've just got to decide now. I was able to locate a pershing nearby and need to go look at it

[Steve McEvoy]

Nice layout for the electrics well done, will have a go at replicating it for mine, always seem to struggle to get the wiring tidy and l hate messy wiring.