David's carrier build.

[Dave Dibb (Armorpax)]

Hi Phil,

Just don't want you to get it all done, set up and painted then have to swap them like someone else did..........................................

Best regards

Dave

[Phil Woollard]

That's very good of you Dave.
The running in method I am using for those who are not familiar with this process, I am unable to say to much regards the tracks but I feel this little tip is worth the risk.
The tracks have been assembled one left one right with nuts facing inwards ( I don't want to see the nuts).
Each track has its own trait ( shant say no more ref that) so the track reluctantly needs easing into something that will run straight and true.
I run both tracks forward for sometime, I run both tracks in reverse for sometime, I then flip the track from left to right and run again, I then reverse the direction and run again. One more flip and you get the idea, you can then mount your tracks the correct way round and all is running pretty smoothly.
Time to check the witness marks on your pla sprockets and and if necessary adjust your journals and tooth gap. Mike has even supplied a very fine abrasive powder that you can mix to a paste with water, this can then be sparingly applied to any high spot areas that need that fine tuning. You could in theory break your track in using this paste in double quick time by applying to the whole track and running for five minutes but I don't think I shall be doing that!

[Armortek]

Stock tracks, stock pins and stock motion pack.

No fettling done to the links or the sprocket and built "out of the box".

[Phil Woollard]

I know your very busy at Armortek with tankfest and all but could I please ask for a data sheet for the esc that you have supplied with the kit, thanks Phil.

[Derek Attree]

Hi Phil
It's a hobbywing quickrun 1060.
They are available from modelsport the data sheet should pop up if you Google it .

Regards

Derek

[Phil Woollard]

Thanks Derek, you may know the answer to this question, if we use 12v to supply the kit esc is the voltage stepped down for the receiver or will I have to install a 12v to 9v converter to safely power the receiver ?
Also the battery type link on the esc which do I use for gell lead acid?
Phil

[Jeffrey Goff]

Hi Phil, it does have a 6v 3 amp SBEC
Regards Jeff

[Phil Woollard]

So it's safe then, I have fried the od sound board with over voltage in the past! Thanks Jeffrey.

[Phil Woollard]

It's all working well on the bench but I'm still not getting enough pressure on the brakes system but I've a few more things to try.
I tried the 1 stick wiring harness that comes with the motion pack and it immediately ruined just one of the servos for some reason, so it's back to the standard rx servo plug which works very well as you can see.

[David Merritt]

Hi Phil, are you using a 12V battery? The wiring arrangement as supplied by Armortek supplies full battery voltage to the servos when actuated. This may be why one of the servos failed.

Regards David

[Phil Woollard]

Yes 12v, the boss said that it would work fine at this, it's the three servo harness that seemed to have caused the problem as that appears to be wired from the battery, I'm not using it now. Maybe I'm losing my touch.
The supplied motor at 12v has lots of grunt and works very well.

[Phil Woollard]

A few photos of the temporary motion pack going in for a series of running gear trials.

[Dennis Jones]

Those servos can only work to a max voltage of 8 volts. That's why they were powered direct from the battery as only 7.2 volts lipo was recommended to be used.

Dennis.

[Phil Woollard]

Different friction material trial. It's all in bits again .

[Dennis Jones]

Been there done that on 2 tanks many times.

Dennis.