Tiger 1 2021 no. 13

[Gary Richardson]

Hi all

I have made progress on the front and rear decks and am working on the cupola hatch , I spoke to David when I was him at WARAG last weekend and he kindly gave me some ideas for modifying the hatch support system so that I can hide the bolt threads and lock the hatch at the correct height, more to follow later.
I have got my transmitter set up now and all the modules, lights and sounds work. I have not checked the smoker yet but do not foresee any issues.
The sound level is very impressive although I am not sure my neighbours appreciated my addition to the Queens gun salute yesterday
I have given the underside of the Tiger its final coat of paint and was about to turn it the correct way up when I found the enamels washes and earth mixes.. well it was rude not have a go. It's not like anyone is going to see it bar the Tiger falling off my ramps.
I do have a question regarding the lights on the Tiger.
I have the newer red modules and the Armortek light wiring which plugs into the receiver and I noticed there is a resistor in series so the voltage supplied to the bulb is less than 5v.
The other light I have is Steve's 12v bosch headlight and I will be getting a convoy light which is also 12v. Is there an electronic device that can use a 12v feed from one the batteries and also connects to the receiver to act as a switch rather than me running a 12v feed from the battery and using a servo driven microswitch to operate the lights. Any replies will be gratefully received.
Unfortunately my trusted Fluke meter of some 30 years has finally packed up so I am unable to test any of the module outputs at the moment.

Regards
Gary

Front deck ready for top coat once c shackle bracket are fitted and turret bullet shield added.

Mudguards have been slightly bent and distorted

Rear deck nearly finished

I told the driver ' avoid the field, use the road'

[Adrian Harris]

If it has a series resistor then it's probably an LED and not a bulb.

I've swapped the "grain of wheat" bulb in an older King Tiger here for a warm white LED and it looks good. It won't light you home but good to show the light is on.

You can get RC switches for external voltages - I looked at them when making the switching units for the Universal Carrier. The trouble with them is all the unnecessary functions built into them, hence I simplified mine to just on and off.

Adrian.

[Donald Suttie]

Hi Garry

something like this should do the trick

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Converter-Adap ... 65947&th=1

Donald

[Vince Cutajar]

On the electronics that pre-dated the red boxes, there was a spare 24V output that could be controlled by a switch on the transmitter. I connected Steve's convoy and bosch lights in series to this spare 24V output.

I don't know if this spare 24V output is still available on the red boxes.

Vince

[Gary Richardson]

Hi all

Thanks for the replies regarding a receiver operated relay/switch for the lights on my Tiger. After scouring the internet I found a company offering a solid state Mosfet switch with connections for the receiver, power supply and load that is small and reasonably priced. If anyone else is interested I have ordered it from MR RC WORLD (www.mr-rcworld.co.uk) the switch is the Solderless Nano switch NS/1 and costs £9.99.
After I had taken the photo of the underside of the tank dirtied up I decided it looked artificial and too streaky and as the earth wash was still wet I used a piece of natural sponge to drag across the wash. This has resulted in a more realistic look as if the mud has been smeared along the underside.

Regards
Gary

Well at least the ants and beetles will enjoy it..

[Larry Frantisak]

On the electronics that pre-dated the red boxes, there was a spare 24V output that could be controlled by a switch on the transmitter. I connected Steve's convoy and bosch lights in series to this spare 24V output.

I don't know if this spare 24V output is still available on the red boxes.

Vince

Vince,
Did you wire the 2 lights directly to this 24V output, or did you step the voltage down to 12 volts?
Larry

[Donald Suttie]

Larry he had the wired in series,therefore the lamps (which i have my self) are 12v each so therefore 24v will power them if wired in series

Donald

[Vince Cutajar]

As Donald said. Like this Larry

Lamps in series

Vince

[Larry Frantisak]

Larry he had the wired in series,therefore the lamps (which i have my self) are 12v each so therefore 24v will power them if wired in series

Donald

Donald and Vince, thank you for the clarification. Still learning about this 24 volt system and how to wire items into them, just like these two lights. I think that I have most of the wiring down, but not sure on how to wire the 3 volt MG Mounted Machine Gun that I got from Steve. I think it gets wired into the sound card, but not sure...yet. Thanks again guys, very much appreciated your knowledge!

[Gary Richardson]

Good evening

I have spent the day modifying the C shackles and having a go at the cupola hatch lifting mechanism.
The C shackles have been reprofiled and I am considering whether to modifying the centres so that they work. The cupola hatch large bolt has been replaced by a shorter hex headed bolt that I put in my drill press and rounded off to the correct diameter with a file. I then removed most of the thread except the part that goes into the lifting arm, cut the slot and soldered the de-threaded bolt into a brass tube with a second outer 6mm tube to give the correct diameter. This is a comfortable fit into the existing cupola support hole, I drilled a 2mm hole in the bottom of the tube and bolt will go through and latch onto a brass fitting to hold the hatch at the correct height when opened. I have noticed the top of the hatch arm guard is much lower than on a real Tiger where it is above the MG fixing rail.
I may try modifying it to give it more height but not sure how to do this as it is already glued in place. Possibly with Milliput
Final job today was to order some tubes of Abteilung 502 oil paint so that I can start modulating and weathering the paintwork, fingers crossed...

Regards
Gary

Reprofiled the hooks

I need a lathe, hand filed in a drill press

Cut the slot in the bolt head

A 2mm hole goes at the bottom of the brass tube

[Vince Cutajar]

I need a lathe, hand filed in a drill press

You are doing fine without a lathe. Keep it up. Looking forward to your weathering. It's something I have not done as I chickened out.

Larry
I know you have the same electronics as myself so have a look here for the MG flash:

viewtopic.php?p=66389#p66389

Vince

[Gary Richardson]

Good afternoon

I have completed the modification to the cupola hatch raising mechanism. I made a brass catch silver soldered to a brass plate and held in place with two M3 screws. I drilled and tapped the cupola boss to take the M3 screws and it lined up very well. I used a M2 bolt through the brass down tube that engages with the catch and holds it in place. I wanted the system to be simple and easy to remove for maintenance hence the M2 bolt rather than soldering a brass rod into the tube.
I will leave the height of the cupola boss alone, photos I have looked at for 1944 Tigers appeared to show variations in the height of the boss bit I think this is more to do with the angles the photos were taken from.
My next job is to sort out the Turmfugenschutz (turret ring guard ), I know it was made up of three sections identically drilled and not all the holes were used for each section. I intend to angle the outside edge using Milliput once it is attached.
I can see the drawing on page 146 of Germany's Tiger Tanks showing the 3 sections and the hole positions so may alter the Armortek turret ring guard by making fake cut lines so it appears to be in three sections and re drilling the holes
My question is were the bolt heads proud of the top of the turret ring or were they recessed on the full size Tiger and what size bolts would be most realistic for 1/6 scale.

Regards
Gary

Tapping the M3 holes

Brass catch and tubing completed

Set the height for the hatch.

Almost there.

Just the periscopes and maybe a bit more detailing to do.

[Vince Cutajar]

Regarding your question about the turret ring protector bolts, they were tapered head bolts.

Have a look here:
https://tiger1.info/EN/Turret-ring-protector.html
Second diagram shows a side view of one of the holes.

What I did to simulate it was to bolt it from below with appropriate length bolts and then fill it from the top with milliput to give it that slightly depressed look. I am not sure what size bolts I used but looking at my CAD drawing I used 2mm holes so the bolt could have been 2.5mm but most probably 3mm.

viewtopic.php?p=68787#p68787
viewtopic.php?p=68976#p68976

Vince

[Gary Richardson]

Regarding your question about the turret ring protector bolts, they were tapered head bolts.

Have a look here:
https://tiger1.info/EN/Turret-ring-protector.html
Second diagram shows a side view of one of the holes.

Vince

Thanks Vince,
Very helpful information that has made it all very clear. Bolting it on from underneath makes sense as well.

Regards
Gary

[Vince Cutajar]

Gary
I went to check on my Tiger and the unused holes are 3mm diameter and as far as I can measure the used holes were drilled 2.5 mm and tapped M3.

Vince