Tiger Ausf E “F01” Gruppe Fehrmann
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Re: Tiger Ausf E “F01” Gruppe Fehrmann
I am deeply impressed!
Are you planning to lower the "Kugelblende" to its proper position? I am in the same position and looking into how to do this. Even Jentz and Doyle have it wrong in their drawings. Proper position is so low, that the "Blende" itself has a cutout against the forward deck, like here:
https://vincesgallery.smugmug.com/Histo ... -ZQNQGVL/A
//
Are you planning to lower the "Kugelblende" to its proper position? I am in the same position and looking into how to do this. Even Jentz and Doyle have it wrong in their drawings. Proper position is so low, that the "Blende" itself has a cutout against the forward deck, like here:
https://vincesgallery.smugmug.com/Histo ... -ZQNQGVL/A
//
A little too much is about right...
- AlastairCooke
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Re: Tiger Ausf E “F01” Gruppe Fehrmann
Hi Christoffer
I think the Kugelblende is in the correct position. What you can see is a cut out in the weld that joins the glacis plate to the upper front plate. See below... taken on the Friday before the recent Tiger day . (I was not able to get to the Saturday running day .) I shall definitely be modelling the cut out as the edge of the Kugelblende almost touches the glacis plate and so there is little space for the weld.
Alastair
I think the Kugelblende is in the correct position. What you can see is a cut out in the weld that joins the glacis plate to the upper front plate. See below... taken on the Friday before the recent Tiger day . (I was not able to get to the Saturday running day .) I shall definitely be modelling the cut out as the edge of the Kugelblende almost touches the glacis plate and so there is little space for the weld.
Alastair
Alastair
Tiger 1 (2015 #01 with 2012 parts)
Tiger 1 (2015 #01 with 2012 parts)
- AlastairCooke
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Re: Tiger Ausf E “F01” Gruppe Fehrmann
Hi All,
Update 2 Jun 22
With the upper chassis plates primed, assembly continues. I decided that putting weld detail around the side skirt mounting bosses would be easier with the plates horizontal and so they were attached first. I shall be using Knupfer M3 bolts that have 4mm A/F heads as these look more in scale. bosses epoxied in place weld detail added
Floor temporarily refitted to check where I have missed with the base coat. It will be removed again when the torsion bars are installed. Items associated with the RC model, that is not found on the full sized Tiger, will be left in natural aluminium. Final Assembly of Sponsons
I found it easier to use a prop when lining up the plates for fixing. (I also used a clamp to keep the plates from opening up. On previous dry runs the left side plate had a tendency to spread away from the rear plate at the bottom.) Here are some images of the upper rear bracket with fixings reversed. This will help with the radiator fan detail. rear view side view inside view, note that the upper sides were attached before the sponson floor. I found this reduced the tendency for the sides to open out. all fixed in place, just needs some Loctite.
Faux taper bolts and roof support studs in place Centre roof supports trial fit parts epoxied together and weld detail added final trial fit, just needs paint.
internal weld detail added, note use of brass angle to seal sides.
That's all for now.
Alastair
Update 2 Jun 22
With the upper chassis plates primed, assembly continues. I decided that putting weld detail around the side skirt mounting bosses would be easier with the plates horizontal and so they were attached first. I shall be using Knupfer M3 bolts that have 4mm A/F heads as these look more in scale. bosses epoxied in place weld detail added
Floor temporarily refitted to check where I have missed with the base coat. It will be removed again when the torsion bars are installed. Items associated with the RC model, that is not found on the full sized Tiger, will be left in natural aluminium. Final Assembly of Sponsons
I found it easier to use a prop when lining up the plates for fixing. (I also used a clamp to keep the plates from opening up. On previous dry runs the left side plate had a tendency to spread away from the rear plate at the bottom.) Here are some images of the upper rear bracket with fixings reversed. This will help with the radiator fan detail. rear view side view inside view, note that the upper sides were attached before the sponson floor. I found this reduced the tendency for the sides to open out. all fixed in place, just needs some Loctite.
Faux taper bolts and roof support studs in place Centre roof supports trial fit parts epoxied together and weld detail added final trial fit, just needs paint.
internal weld detail added, note use of brass angle to seal sides.
That's all for now.
Alastair
Alastair
Tiger 1 (2015 #01 with 2012 parts)
Tiger 1 (2015 #01 with 2012 parts)
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Re: Tiger Ausf E “F01” Gruppe Fehrmann
Nice work, your welds are neat to .
Mechanical engineer.
2 Youtube channels, Phil Woollard and Magpiespyro. Facebook/ Phil Woollard.
Commission builds considered. Pm for my email.
2 Youtube channels, Phil Woollard and Magpiespyro. Facebook/ Phil Woollard.
Commission builds considered. Pm for my email.
- AlastairCooke
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Re: Tiger Ausf E “F01” Gruppe Fehrmann
Hi All,
Many thanks for the kind comments and best wishes to all at Tankfest 22. Perhaps I may have a running chassis in time for next year .
Update 24 Jun 22
Rear electrics plate.
Having finalised the design for the rear electrics plate I got it laser cut. The centre opening is for a modular relay and fuse holder and the slots are to allow air through to the smoker fans. Painting the road wheel swing arms.
First they are roughed up with a 150 grit sanding stick, than masked, next given a coat of Isopon zinc 182 rust inhibiting primer, fixing holes filled with Milliput, finally for now they are given a coat of Halfords red (oxide) primer. I decided to change the fan bay area by adding full depth doublers to bring the sponson sides out to scale thickness. Two pieces were laser cut from 3mm aluminium sheet to increase the thickness by 6mm to 14mm. These were designed to work with the existing joining system. area prepared for epoxy
doubler plates fixed in place...and yes I am planning to fit dummy lower fuel tanks! plates painted. Interior painting
Although much of this will be hidden, the process has helped me get proficient with the airbrush and work out the best thinning ratio for the AK Real Colors. Elfenbein added Hellgrau touched up.
That's all for now...
Alastair
Many thanks for the kind comments and best wishes to all at Tankfest 22. Perhaps I may have a running chassis in time for next year .
Update 24 Jun 22
Rear electrics plate.
Having finalised the design for the rear electrics plate I got it laser cut. The centre opening is for a modular relay and fuse holder and the slots are to allow air through to the smoker fans. Painting the road wheel swing arms.
First they are roughed up with a 150 grit sanding stick, than masked, next given a coat of Isopon zinc 182 rust inhibiting primer, fixing holes filled with Milliput, finally for now they are given a coat of Halfords red (oxide) primer. I decided to change the fan bay area by adding full depth doublers to bring the sponson sides out to scale thickness. Two pieces were laser cut from 3mm aluminium sheet to increase the thickness by 6mm to 14mm. These were designed to work with the existing joining system. area prepared for epoxy
doubler plates fixed in place...and yes I am planning to fit dummy lower fuel tanks! plates painted. Interior painting
Although much of this will be hidden, the process has helped me get proficient with the airbrush and work out the best thinning ratio for the AK Real Colors. Elfenbein added Hellgrau touched up.
That's all for now...
Alastair
Alastair
Tiger 1 (2015 #01 with 2012 parts)
Tiger 1 (2015 #01 with 2012 parts)
- AlastairCooke
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Re: Tiger Ausf E “F01” Gruppe Fehrmann
Hi All,
Update 17 Jul 22
Roof supports finally fitted, just need a little bit more weld detail. Supports completed and electric plate bearers fitted. Upper interior will be weathered later, once the underside is finished and the chassis is the right way up again. Interior finished, for now.... ready to flip and complete the underside. Flipped and ready for weld detailing... Belly plate weld detail
In reality, the weld is sunk down within the joint and so I arranged for a gap between the plates. Note that the side plates have been milled to create a notch. This was done right at the start of build, in January 2020, on a much bigger mill than my trusty Seig SX2P! I start with a strand (or worm) of Milliput that fills approximately half of the gap... The gap is filled using another strand and the Milliput worked so that it is lower in the middle... Then the detail is pressed in using a detailing tool... Finally, any excess that protrudes above the surface of the plate is scraped off when the Milliput has cured.
Sponson bracket
Any remaining holes were filled with discs of Plasticard to simulate the heads of the cone bolts used to align and secure the plates before welding. Then the gaps were filled... The rear part was adjusted to better reflect the asymmetric characteristic (left/right) of the bracket. right side - before after finished look with weld detail added.
Glacis plate modification
I decided on some surgery! Mike Kasputis had pointed out that there was excessive material outboard of the lower hull sides. This would have been a relatively easy fix with a mill had the plate still been removable, ah well! Nevertheless, I managed with a coping saw and several hours’ worth of filing.... The shape of the cut will be adjusted, if required, when the hull is the right way up.
That's all for now.
Alastair
Update 17 Jul 22
Roof supports finally fitted, just need a little bit more weld detail. Supports completed and electric plate bearers fitted. Upper interior will be weathered later, once the underside is finished and the chassis is the right way up again. Interior finished, for now.... ready to flip and complete the underside. Flipped and ready for weld detailing... Belly plate weld detail
In reality, the weld is sunk down within the joint and so I arranged for a gap between the plates. Note that the side plates have been milled to create a notch. This was done right at the start of build, in January 2020, on a much bigger mill than my trusty Seig SX2P! I start with a strand (or worm) of Milliput that fills approximately half of the gap... The gap is filled using another strand and the Milliput worked so that it is lower in the middle... Then the detail is pressed in using a detailing tool... Finally, any excess that protrudes above the surface of the plate is scraped off when the Milliput has cured.
Sponson bracket
Any remaining holes were filled with discs of Plasticard to simulate the heads of the cone bolts used to align and secure the plates before welding. Then the gaps were filled... The rear part was adjusted to better reflect the asymmetric characteristic (left/right) of the bracket. right side - before after finished look with weld detail added.
Glacis plate modification
I decided on some surgery! Mike Kasputis had pointed out that there was excessive material outboard of the lower hull sides. This would have been a relatively easy fix with a mill had the plate still been removable, ah well! Nevertheless, I managed with a coping saw and several hours’ worth of filing.... The shape of the cut will be adjusted, if required, when the hull is the right way up.
That's all for now.
Alastair
Alastair
Tiger 1 (2015 #01 with 2012 parts)
Tiger 1 (2015 #01 with 2012 parts)
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Re: Tiger Ausf E “F01” Gruppe Fehrmann
This is looking really good, very impressive work. Your welds are excellent.
You are right about it being an easy fix if the plate was not mounted. I did not notice this until after I had bolted mine on and had to fix it in place.
You are right about it being an easy fix if the plate was not mounted. I did not notice this until after I had bolted mine on and had to fix it in place.
- AlastairCooke
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Re: Tiger Ausf E “F01” Gruppe Fehrmann
Hi All,
Almost Three Year Update : 10 Aug 22
Track Rack
F01 featured a front track rack that consisted of a section of channel welded to the lower side plates just below the eyelets for the towing shackles. I decided to make use of the existing M3 tapped holes in the front plate by designing a bracket that would provide more support for the channel in an unobtrusive manner. Bracket fitted, will be epoxied in place when the weld details are finished and the bolt protector plates are installed. Channel dry fitted, will be permanently installed after the base colour is spayed on. The channel is also pinned to the lower side plates using 1.6mm brass rod.
Weld detail finished! Ready for red oxide primer . Bolt Protector Plate epoxied in place bolt/stud detail added ready for base coat.
Base Coating
Underside textured using Upol High Build Primer primed then painted Underside primed then painted. As mentioned earlier, I have decided to use Gelbbraun RAL 8000 (Yellow Brown, RC063) for the base coat of the Wanne (Fgst.Nr. 250158). This is the same colour used on Tiger 131 (Fgst.Nr. 250122 – Feb 43) and was the colour used for vehicles intended to operate in North Africa. In fact, Fgst.Nr. 250157 was issued to s.PzAbt. 505, who were originally destined to join the Afrika Corps before events took them to the Eastern Front instead. Therefore, it makes sense, to me anyway, that the next one on the production line was painted similarly.
Note that for variety I have assumed that the additional access plates, required by the HL230 refit, would be painted in a later colour (Dunkelgelb Ausgabe 44, RC061) and that one of the original plates has been replaced with one still in red oxide (Rotbraun, RC066)
Also, note that the base coat coverage is not uniform. This is partly deliberate and partly caused by the 0.5mm nozzle size on my airbrush. I do not think this is a problem as it makes these large blank plates visually more interesting. The rough surface finish left by the red oxide primer (caused by it partly drying in transit from the can to the plate?) resulted in some dark areas, these were disguised by stippling on another coat of the base colour.
Weathering starts with a ‘pin’ wash using MIG Productions (enamel) Wash for Desert Sand Base (P284). Pictures below show the process partially completed so you get before and after views. Any excess was removed using Thinner for Washes making sure that the brush strokes were vertical on the sides and front to rear on the belly plate. Contrast was enhanced by dry brushing the base coat over the welds.
The two front plates were given some dot modulation using oils: Naples yellow hue, chrome yellow hue, yellow ochre, raw umber, and Paynes grey. Dots applied over a satin varnish coat that had dried for about 12 hours and was moistened with thinners. The dots were arranged with the lighter tones near the top edge and the darker tones near the sides and bottom edge. The whole was then blended using only vertical strokes to get a subtle streaking effect. Once again I have tried this out on area that will be hidden; this time by the spare track links. The idea being that I will be more practiced when I get to the parts that matter. The finish will be sealed with a coat of matt varnish before the chassis is turned the right way up. image of finished track rack in situ.
Fan drives
Following an interesting visit to the Archive at the Tank Museum, Bovington, I have been able to create my own version of the radiator fan gearboxes using a copy of drawing H.Sk.Nr. J 3025. The rear mudguard frames have now been attached to the Wanne: area prepared for epoxy glue frame attached weld detail added
15 Tonne Jack
I decided to make my own 15T jack so that I could adjust its length to fit the brackets already fixed to the chassis rather than forcing a 20T jack onto the early pattern bracket layout. That is all for now. I am making use of the dry weather by having my painting tent permanently set up in the back garden and priming the road wheels.....
Alastair
Almost Three Year Update : 10 Aug 22
Track Rack
F01 featured a front track rack that consisted of a section of channel welded to the lower side plates just below the eyelets for the towing shackles. I decided to make use of the existing M3 tapped holes in the front plate by designing a bracket that would provide more support for the channel in an unobtrusive manner. Bracket fitted, will be epoxied in place when the weld details are finished and the bolt protector plates are installed. Channel dry fitted, will be permanently installed after the base colour is spayed on. The channel is also pinned to the lower side plates using 1.6mm brass rod.
Weld detail finished! Ready for red oxide primer . Bolt Protector Plate epoxied in place bolt/stud detail added ready for base coat.
Base Coating
Underside textured using Upol High Build Primer primed then painted Underside primed then painted. As mentioned earlier, I have decided to use Gelbbraun RAL 8000 (Yellow Brown, RC063) for the base coat of the Wanne (Fgst.Nr. 250158). This is the same colour used on Tiger 131 (Fgst.Nr. 250122 – Feb 43) and was the colour used for vehicles intended to operate in North Africa. In fact, Fgst.Nr. 250157 was issued to s.PzAbt. 505, who were originally destined to join the Afrika Corps before events took them to the Eastern Front instead. Therefore, it makes sense, to me anyway, that the next one on the production line was painted similarly.
Note that for variety I have assumed that the additional access plates, required by the HL230 refit, would be painted in a later colour (Dunkelgelb Ausgabe 44, RC061) and that one of the original plates has been replaced with one still in red oxide (Rotbraun, RC066)
Also, note that the base coat coverage is not uniform. This is partly deliberate and partly caused by the 0.5mm nozzle size on my airbrush. I do not think this is a problem as it makes these large blank plates visually more interesting. The rough surface finish left by the red oxide primer (caused by it partly drying in transit from the can to the plate?) resulted in some dark areas, these were disguised by stippling on another coat of the base colour.
Weathering starts with a ‘pin’ wash using MIG Productions (enamel) Wash for Desert Sand Base (P284). Pictures below show the process partially completed so you get before and after views. Any excess was removed using Thinner for Washes making sure that the brush strokes were vertical on the sides and front to rear on the belly plate. Contrast was enhanced by dry brushing the base coat over the welds.
The two front plates were given some dot modulation using oils: Naples yellow hue, chrome yellow hue, yellow ochre, raw umber, and Paynes grey. Dots applied over a satin varnish coat that had dried for about 12 hours and was moistened with thinners. The dots were arranged with the lighter tones near the top edge and the darker tones near the sides and bottom edge. The whole was then blended using only vertical strokes to get a subtle streaking effect. Once again I have tried this out on area that will be hidden; this time by the spare track links. The idea being that I will be more practiced when I get to the parts that matter. The finish will be sealed with a coat of matt varnish before the chassis is turned the right way up. image of finished track rack in situ.
Fan drives
Following an interesting visit to the Archive at the Tank Museum, Bovington, I have been able to create my own version of the radiator fan gearboxes using a copy of drawing H.Sk.Nr. J 3025. The rear mudguard frames have now been attached to the Wanne: area prepared for epoxy glue frame attached weld detail added
15 Tonne Jack
I decided to make my own 15T jack so that I could adjust its length to fit the brackets already fixed to the chassis rather than forcing a 20T jack onto the early pattern bracket layout. That is all for now. I am making use of the dry weather by having my painting tent permanently set up in the back garden and priming the road wheels.....
Alastair
Alastair
Tiger 1 (2015 #01 with 2012 parts)
Tiger 1 (2015 #01 with 2012 parts)
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- AlastairCooke
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Re: Tiger Ausf E “F01” Gruppe Fehrmann
Hi All,
Thanks Simon for the encouragement. Just a very quick update to bracket the 3 year point.
Update 18 Aug 22
Took the opportunity of the hot weather to finish priming all the wheel sets and assemby the outer ones. I have brushed on some slightly thinned AK Interactive RC066 (Rotbraun RAL 8013) to those areas missed by the spray can. (It is amazing, even with the parts separated, what you miss!) It is a reasonable match to Halfords red primer bearing in mind that this is an undercoat. The inner sets will be fully assembled when I have sorted out some suitable hub fastenings as on reflection I decided that studding with nuts attached at both ends might not be robust enough.
Started assembling the tracks in runs of 10 links. My links are supplied with a dusty black coating! This gives the impression that they are made of coal...no amount of washing seems to change how black your hands get when putting them together! I am not sure about using etch primer as I do not know how well it will stick. Soon be ready to turn the hull the right way up and fit the torsion bars....
That's all for now...
Alastair
Thanks Simon for the encouragement. Just a very quick update to bracket the 3 year point.
Update 18 Aug 22
Took the opportunity of the hot weather to finish priming all the wheel sets and assemby the outer ones. I have brushed on some slightly thinned AK Interactive RC066 (Rotbraun RAL 8013) to those areas missed by the spray can. (It is amazing, even with the parts separated, what you miss!) It is a reasonable match to Halfords red primer bearing in mind that this is an undercoat. The inner sets will be fully assembled when I have sorted out some suitable hub fastenings as on reflection I decided that studding with nuts attached at both ends might not be robust enough.
Started assembling the tracks in runs of 10 links. My links are supplied with a dusty black coating! This gives the impression that they are made of coal...no amount of washing seems to change how black your hands get when putting them together! I am not sure about using etch primer as I do not know how well it will stick. Soon be ready to turn the hull the right way up and fit the torsion bars....
That's all for now...
Alastair
Alastair
Tiger 1 (2015 #01 with 2012 parts)
Tiger 1 (2015 #01 with 2012 parts)
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Re: Tiger Ausf E “F01” Gruppe Fehrmann
I have the same tracks. There is not much point in painting them at all. The blackening will turn paler with use and look quite like steel. Unless you are in for a static model.
A little too much is about right...
- AlastairCooke
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Re: Tiger Ausf E “F01” Gruppe Fehrmann
Thanks Christoffer for confirming what I suspected was the case.
Alastair
Tiger 1 (2015 #01 with 2012 parts)
Tiger 1 (2015 #01 with 2012 parts)
- AlastairCooke
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- Joined: Tue Jul 16, 2019 9:59 am
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Re: Tiger Ausf E “F01” Gruppe Fehrmann
Hi All,
Update 15 Sep 22
Prior to sealing the underside of the Wanne with varnish, in preparation for some oil paint dot modulation/weathering, I decided to add some staining around the engine access plates and drains. This was done with undiluted enamel washes from the MIG range (Fuel Stains, Oil and Grease Stain Mixture, Engine Grime Effect and Wash for Desert Sand Base). Each was applied straight on to the paint and allowed to dry for about 5 minutes before another was applied. A little adjustment was then made with Thinners for Washes to remove any obvious brush marks. I do like the way the washes have leeched into the paint in a realistic manner. The following images show stages in this process... The belly plate and pannier floors were sprayed with two coats of satin varnish and then weathered using dots of oil paint blended using a wide flat brush moistened with odourless thinners.
Update 15 Sep 22
Prior to sealing the underside of the Wanne with varnish, in preparation for some oil paint dot modulation/weathering, I decided to add some staining around the engine access plates and drains. This was done with undiluted enamel washes from the MIG range (Fuel Stains, Oil and Grease Stain Mixture, Engine Grime Effect and Wash for Desert Sand Base). Each was applied straight on to the paint and allowed to dry for about 5 minutes before another was applied. A little adjustment was then made with Thinners for Washes to remove any obvious brush marks. I do like the way the washes have leeched into the paint in a realistic manner. The following images show stages in this process... The belly plate and pannier floors were sprayed with two coats of satin varnish and then weathered using dots of oil paint blended using a wide flat brush moistened with odourless thinners.
Alastair
Tiger 1 (2015 #01 with 2012 parts)
Tiger 1 (2015 #01 with 2012 parts)
- AlastairCooke
- Posts: 226
- Joined: Tue Jul 16, 2019 9:59 am
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Re: Tiger Ausf E “F01” Gruppe Fehrmann
Part two... (finger trouble.. submit pressed rather than preview!!)
Road wheels
Finally settled on the bolts for the hubs of the inner wheel sets...M2.5 x 32.5mm with 4mm A/F hex head. front view rear view (not prototypical but more secure) , front view with outer road wheel sets
Weathering lower sides Lifting the Wanne on my scissor lift... and removing support timbers. Applying oil dot weathering... before after. It is very subtle but becomes more obvious as the paint dries out.
Trial load out of front track rack prototype
Torsion bars
First, installing the O rings. Tools used... 9mm and 10mm A/F sockets and 2.5mm Allen key 9mm socket used to prevent O-ring from passing beyond the slot O-ring pushed partially into the slot O-ring pushed into place using Allen key 10mm socket used to ensure O-ring is correctly seated Brass bushes pushed in by about 1mm as torsion bars are seated. Job done on the left side.
After applying Loctite to the torsion bar end collars, I trial fitted some of the wheels... I expect the tank to sit lower as more weight is added and torsion bars ‘bed in’. This picture gives a better view of the weathering applied to the lower hull. It has now become a little more obvious. Next job... base coat the wheels in Dunkelgelb Ausgabe 1944... Next job, apply weathering (and modulation/rendering) to the road wheels.
Alastair
Road wheels
Finally settled on the bolts for the hubs of the inner wheel sets...M2.5 x 32.5mm with 4mm A/F hex head. front view rear view (not prototypical but more secure) , front view with outer road wheel sets
Weathering lower sides Lifting the Wanne on my scissor lift... and removing support timbers. Applying oil dot weathering... before after. It is very subtle but becomes more obvious as the paint dries out.
Trial load out of front track rack prototype
Torsion bars
First, installing the O rings. Tools used... 9mm and 10mm A/F sockets and 2.5mm Allen key 9mm socket used to prevent O-ring from passing beyond the slot O-ring pushed partially into the slot O-ring pushed into place using Allen key 10mm socket used to ensure O-ring is correctly seated Brass bushes pushed in by about 1mm as torsion bars are seated. Job done on the left side.
After applying Loctite to the torsion bar end collars, I trial fitted some of the wheels... I expect the tank to sit lower as more weight is added and torsion bars ‘bed in’. This picture gives a better view of the weathering applied to the lower hull. It has now become a little more obvious. Next job... base coat the wheels in Dunkelgelb Ausgabe 1944... Next job, apply weathering (and modulation/rendering) to the road wheels.
Alastair
Alastair
Tiger 1 (2015 #01 with 2012 parts)
Tiger 1 (2015 #01 with 2012 parts)
- AlastairCooke
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- Joined: Tue Jul 16, 2019 9:59 am
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Re: Tiger Ausf E “F01” Gruppe Fehrmann
Hi All,
Update 08 Oct 22
As other Tiger 1 builders are getting to the weathering stage I thought I would share my efforts with the road wheels. As you may have noticed I am 'weathering as I go' to make sure I get to those hard to reach places. Everything will be unified eventually with a light dusting of buff paint and some pigments.
First a pin wash... outer front outer rear inner front inner rear
then oil dot weathering/modulation on front faces...
outer - paint applied outer - blended in (very subtle, slightly more obvious in reality) inner - paint applied inner blended I will apply an oil wash to the inner faces of the outer wheels and some dry brushing with a rust coloured acrylic paint before sealing with a matt varnish. An enamel varnish will allow the use of acrylic washes later or vice versa... have not decided which just yet.
Alastair
ps... does anyone know how to stop getting images as attachments as well as inline?
Update 08 Oct 22
As other Tiger 1 builders are getting to the weathering stage I thought I would share my efforts with the road wheels. As you may have noticed I am 'weathering as I go' to make sure I get to those hard to reach places. Everything will be unified eventually with a light dusting of buff paint and some pigments.
First a pin wash... outer front outer rear inner front inner rear
then oil dot weathering/modulation on front faces...
outer - paint applied outer - blended in (very subtle, slightly more obvious in reality) inner - paint applied inner blended I will apply an oil wash to the inner faces of the outer wheels and some dry brushing with a rust coloured acrylic paint before sealing with a matt varnish. An enamel varnish will allow the use of acrylic washes later or vice versa... have not decided which just yet.
Alastair
ps... does anyone know how to stop getting images as attachments as well as inline?
- Attachments
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- 20221001_132812-doc.jpg (84.18 KiB) Viewed 3660 times
Alastair
Tiger 1 (2015 #01 with 2012 parts)
Tiger 1 (2015 #01 with 2012 parts)