Using the nice pins the pitch is good and consistent over the sprockets. When using the split pins the track is almost elastic as the split pins give a little.
If you choose to use the nice Armorpax pins they basically fit to well. You will need to identify the correct misalignment of the pin holes ( they all seem to be drilled in the same orientation) then use a 1.65 mm drill bit and just drill the lower half of the link, this gives you the .2 mm that you need for a better alignment, I may make more adjustments as I go.
Here's the problem, if you use the kit split pins this slight discrepancy is not a problem, that's why Armortek used them. They will work from the box.
Before drilling out.
Mechanical engineer.
2 Youtube channels, Phil Woollard and Magpiespyro. Facebook/ Phil Woollard.
Commission builds considered. Pm for my email.
For Derek, see photos below, you will need to check with a vernier to identify the drift. Regarding the sprocket pitch I may make new ones.
Regarding the the wheel bearing sleeve issue I may use Locktite.
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Look closely at the pin holes and you can see they the drill has drifted, they still fit together but the track ends up with a twist in it if you use the solid pins.
Three links, the top two are bad and will be rejected, if you look at the position of the bottom link the hole is just about correct.
Mechanical engineer.
2 Youtube channels, Phil Woollard and Magpiespyro. Facebook/ Phil Woollard.
Commission builds considered. Pm for my email.
I've put this many links together as "a look see" and it's still within tolerance, the links in the box lid are rejects but Kian has said that he will replace the bad ones. As soon as you see the track lifting away from a flat bench go back and remove the offending link/links.
Some of the links I am actually drilling from the other side as well to keep it all in line, I think you could drill them out to say 1.7 to 1.8 mm and just accept that you will Have to make another set of sprockets as the pitch will be greater. This is only if your using the Armorpax pins remember.
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Mechanical engineer.
2 Youtube channels, Phil Woollard and Magpiespyro. Facebook/ Phil Woollard.
Commission builds considered. Pm for my email.
A little more done this morning. There's a lot of end float with the road wheels, now this may be there to help everything run smoothly so for now I'm not going to worry about it.
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Locktite for the bearing/axle bushes
The axles need to be free from paint for now as they are out and in many times and will be for Some time!
Some lathe work required as all the turned parts were way oversize so the springs could never fit. No big deal.
Just .5 mm to big .
All from the same parts bag.
Last edited by Phil Woollard on Thu May 12, 2022 6:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Mechanical engineer.
2 Youtube channels, Phil Woollard and Magpiespyro. Facebook/ Phil Woollard.
Commission builds considered. Pm for my email.
Malcolm I will let Dave answer that. That's all the wheels and suspension done for now, the tyres have been bonded and cleaned up to include removal of any flashing and weathered down a tad So they don't look brand new.
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On to the rear suspension components.
Nice parts
Lots of machining marks to deal with.
Nice sunny day for curing the paint.
First part of the cleaning up process.
You have to be careful using the rotary brush or you can destroy the part.
Handy little abrasive cylinders, one / wheel.
The only way to get into the spokes.
All prepped ready for paint.
I shall be up at 3am sneezing my head off!
Rubbing the newness away.
Mechanical engineer.
2 Youtube channels, Phil Woollard and Magpiespyro. Facebook/ Phil Woollard.
Commission builds considered. Pm for my email.
I'm really pleased with the progress of this build and the superb work Phil is doing.
In response to Malcom's question I think it depends on what would be classed as early. Without giving too much away (got to keep you interested somehow ) this website shows Vickers mounted as late as 1944.