good morning every one
i am looking for some advice please i have built a 2019 king tiger and have run her a couple of times however this is where the story begins after
running the kt although i made sure the suspension arms were good and tight and locktited a couple of the arms on either side came undone so i decided to dismantle the arms so i could drill and pin them to prevent this happening again one side came apart with no issues but one front sprocket will not come off i discovered the undoing hole on the tapered bearing will not allow the grub screw in to help release the bearing as the hole is to small so i wanted to ask the guys with a lot more experiance in building and dissmantling these kits than me is thereany other solution to get the sprocket off with the bearing in place i did think about useing a gear puller but would take advice on this thanks in advance andy
king tiger drive sprocket
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- Adrian Harris
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Re: king tiger drive sprocket
Does the grub screw go in at all ?
If you've removed the two fixing grub screws, it might be possible to gently tap the sprocket towards the tank, to free it from the taper lock bush.
If all else fails, you could heat the sprocket gently with a gas torch, as the aluminium will expand more than the steel, so that may separate them.
I doubt you would be able to pull it off, as the bush will clamp tighter with any forward pressure.
Adrian.
If you've removed the two fixing grub screws, it might be possible to gently tap the sprocket towards the tank, to free it from the taper lock bush.
If all else fails, you could heat the sprocket gently with a gas torch, as the aluminium will expand more than the steel, so that may separate them.
I doubt you would be able to pull it off, as the bush will clamp tighter with any forward pressure.
Adrian.
Contact me at sales@armortekaddict.uk for details of my smoker fan control module
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Re: king tiger drive sprocket
Hello Andy, as the saying goes, been there done that. Not sure which model, I believe my Grant,
I was trying to improve the track alignment on one side, so I removed or tried to remove the taper lock bush. It would not move, locked solid.
I used a shaped lump of wood wedged down the back of the Sprocket, and a hammer. I am not recommending this, it just worked for me.
Earlier, I tried tapping the bush gently trying to dislodge it free, unfortunately I had caused a crack across and down the threaded part of the bush.
Armortek supplied a replacement. Try Adrian's method first,,,,Mick
I was trying to improve the track alignment on one side, so I removed or tried to remove the taper lock bush. It would not move, locked solid.
I used a shaped lump of wood wedged down the back of the Sprocket, and a hammer. I am not recommending this, it just worked for me.
Earlier, I tried tapping the bush gently trying to dislodge it free, unfortunately I had caused a crack across and down the threaded part of the bush.
Armortek supplied a replacement. Try Adrian's method first,,,,Mick
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Re: king tiger drive sprocket
hi guys thank you both so much for your replies i will try this and let you know how i get on as im really missing driving my baby
- Jerry Carducci
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Re: king tiger drive sprocket
I've not yet encountered an issue removing a sprocket using this wedge system. I was skeptical of its holding ability when I first saw them
then I remembered just how strong a tapered fitting can be. I rebuild old electric hand drills as (another) hobby, large ones that typically use 1/2-7/8" capacity Jacobs chucks. I had in one instance to remove a chuck from it's arbor that employed a jacobs #3 taper. I had to use a 20 ton hydraulic press to pop these apart after getting nowhere using official jacobs' taper wedges...
I like the suggestion of gently tapping the sprocket body to loosen the grip of the taper. I would add, I'm sure this is implied, use a very soft mallet or block of wood please. I have an older British made mallet that has a head of copper on one side and leather on the other and even that can cause damage. I'd stick with a hardwood block to tap the center of the sprocket body, not the edges.
Jerry
then I remembered just how strong a tapered fitting can be. I rebuild old electric hand drills as (another) hobby, large ones that typically use 1/2-7/8" capacity Jacobs chucks. I had in one instance to remove a chuck from it's arbor that employed a jacobs #3 taper. I had to use a 20 ton hydraulic press to pop these apart after getting nowhere using official jacobs' taper wedges...
I like the suggestion of gently tapping the sprocket body to loosen the grip of the taper. I would add, I'm sure this is implied, use a very soft mallet or block of wood please. I have an older British made mallet that has a head of copper on one side and leather on the other and even that can cause damage. I'd stick with a hardwood block to tap the center of the sprocket body, not the edges.
Jerry
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