Tiger 1 2021 no. 13

[Vince Cutajar]

That's a good call Christoffer. Gary hopefully I will remember and tomorrow will check the clearance between mantlet and vent.

Vince

[David Battson]

Hi Gary,
Good to chat at the SW show and glad to be of assistance with the turret assembly. Your Tiger build is coming on fast and looking very neat.

Whilst you're working on the turret, another idea to consider is modifying the elevation trunnion pins so that the whole gun/mantlet assembly can be installed/removed at any time. With the kit set up, once the trunnion pins are in and welds/zimmerit etc added, the trunnion plate is locked in for good.
As shown in the photo, I have thinned down the collar of the pin on the right and replaced it with an outer sleeve which can be permanently fixed in place on the turret side whilst still allowing the pin to be unscrewed and trunnion plate to be removed.

elevation trunnion mod

Re you query about the engine vent/turret bin clearance, I don't recall any problem at all.
However one problem I do have is with clearance between the engine hatch and the turret. The combination of rear bin and spare track links mounted on the turret means that, as per the real thing, the engine hatch can only be opened with the turret in a few limited positions. Even then and for whatever reason, maybe as my Tiger was a one off from Armortek made up from spare parts, I can’t actually open the engine hatch as it’s outer edge just clashes with the turret. To overcome this problem, I haven’t fitted the engine hatch hinge pins, which for a working model is handy as it allows me to remove the hatch to disconnect batteries etc with the turret in any position. So unless you’re going for the full engine bay display upgrade, maybe hold back on pinning the engine hatch for a while.

David

[Gary Richardson]

Whilst you're working on the turret, another idea to consider is modifying the elevation trunnion pins so that the whole gun/mantlet assembly can be installed/removed at any time. With the kit set up, once the trunnion pins are in and welds/zimmerit etc added, the trunnion plate is locked in for good.

Re you query about the engine vent/turret bin clearance, I don't recall any problem at all.
However one problem I do have is with clearance between the engine hatch and the turret.........To overcome this problem, I haven’t fitted the engine hatch hinge pins, which for a working model is handy as it allows me to remove the hatch to disconnect batteries etc with the turret in any position. So unless you’re going for the full engine bay display upgrade, maybe hold back on pinning the engine hatch for a while.
David

Hi David

It was good to have a chat and be able to check out the turret detailing on your Tiger. Unfortunately I do not have access to a lathe to modify the trunnion pins but could see if there is a local engineering firm that could help. The engine hatch clearance is not something I have considered yet, but I will have to get the front deck and turret components assembled to check it out. I could easily re-drill the pin holes so the pins are a looser fit making them easy to remove if the clearance is a problem. I am not considering putting in the engine detail but may put the wooden slats that covered the fuel tanks just to add a little detail through the covers.
I am beginning to understand why this hobby is so addictive, might have to add a small lathe to the milling machine on my wish list.

Regards
Gary

[Vince Cutajar]

Gary

The clearance between the front of the turret and the engine access panel is 20mm so it's going to be tight. Suggest you make yours less than 18mm tall. How about using the same height as the armortek part?

You might notice that the position of the vent is not the same as mine. Yours is more correct. I just did not bother to move the vent position on mine.

Vince

[Gary Richardson]

Gary

The clearance between the front of the turret and the engine access panel is 20mm so it's going to be tight. Suggest you make yours less than 18mm tall. How about using the same height as the armortek part?

You might notice that the position of the vent is not the same as mine. Yours is more correct. I just did not bother to move the vent position on mine.

Vince

Hi Vince

I really appreciate your help once again, I will reduce the height to ensure the bolt heads safely clear the turret. It could be the 1/16th scale dimensions were slightly out and as I rescaled them to 1/6 that has amplified the height. I was thinking of just embellishing the Armortek part but the outside hole positions don't look right as it appears they should be level with the angle and it is a part I can manufacture without needing a mill or lathe, just a hacksaw, tube cutter and a file will do the job. The photo of the original on the Tiger also shows lots of weld detail so that will add to the overall effect I am looking for. And to think I was originally going to build the Tiger straight out of the box without modifications. I just love doing the detailing.
I like the way you have done the zimmerit on your Tiger, I will make my own tools for that and follow the advice of the other forum members on the application.

Regards
Gary

[Gary Richardson]

Hi all

Just time to post this before the rugby starts. I have been working on the engine vent for the last couple of days having received a delivery of brass strips, tubes and sheet. The engine hatch needed re-drilling as the vent is longer than the AT part and the holes needed to align with the angles on the front aspect.
I used half hard 1.2mm brass sheet, 6mm tubing, 4mm, 6mm and 14mm strips all soldered together, the most frustrating thing was holding the parts together while the soldering was being done, the soldering iron gave way to a butane torch which worked very well. The dimensions are as accurate as I could get them (Thanks Vince for pointing me in the right direction) although I reduced the height by a couple of millimetres to ensure the gun mantle clears the vent.

Regards
Gary

Vent top plate

New holes drilled

Soldering was a bit fiddley

Just needs a clean up.

A coat of acid etch.

[simon_manning]

Nice Job, regards simon manning.

[Vince Cutajar]

That looks awesome Gary. Well worth the effort.

Vince

[Gary Richardson]

Hi all

Thanks Simon and Vince for your kind comments.
I decided to have a break from the engine deck and move on to the tracks, after a lot of thought I bought some Rocol dry Moly lubricant, eye wateringly expensive but highly recommended by an engineering friend and the Armed forces. I gave each pin a very light coat of Moly with a paint brush then left them overnight before using a lint free cloth to remove any excess. Its a messy process but hopefully will help keep the pins water and corrosion free.
The Moly will also be used in the gearbox and axels /bushes and as it is a dry lubricant dirt etc will not adhere to it.
I will return to the engine vent this afternoon as I have added the weld details and it needs a coat of red oxide. I also want to add the four round caps with the square drives that I presume were to secure the engine hatch. I am thinking of cutting down some square drive screws and just using the heads
to drop into holes in the hatch. If anyone knows a better method of replicating them I would appreciate the heads up.

Regards
Gary

Two sets of 96 links

[Vince Cutajar]

Just out of curiosity, are those steel or aluminium track links?

I am thinking of cutting down some square drive screws and just using the heads
to drop into holes in the hatch

That's exactly what I did.

viewtopic.php?p=63928#p63928

With the same screw head I did also this:

viewtopic.php?p=63670#p63670

I know they are called Robertson countersunk woodscrews but don't remember what size I used. If I remember correctly I also countersunk the holes on the engine access panel so that these woodscrew heads would sit lower and be easier to glue in the hole.

At a later date I made these for Phil:

You need the top/left one only for a late Tiger 1. He made 3d printed versions. Can't remember on which Tiger tank he used them though.

Vince

[Gary Richardson]

Just out of curiosity, are those steel or aluminium track links?
Vince

Hi Vince

The tracks are standard aluminium Armortek ones that came with the kit. They look darker in the photo than in real life, I would like to darken them so they look more like steel but need to concentrate on getting the axles, gear box and drive sprockets installed. I have been working on the decks, tools and clamps in the evenings while I wait for the option packs to arrive. My problem is, this being my first tank, I am not sure how far I can proceed with the rest of the build as I don't know how the options are installed especially the turret drives. Still there is plenty to keep me busy in the meantime.
The square drive screws are available on the web , the No. 7, 8 & 10 screws which have a head diameters of 7.5, 8.2 & 9.5mm so one of those should be close enough.
Once again thanks for your help.

Regards
Gary

[Gary Richardson]

Good afternoon

Just a quick update before I settle down for a glass of red.
I have completed the engine vent and primed it, glad I built it as it adds depth to the engine hatch. I have also decide to modify the mudguards starting with the rear ones. I will use the Armortek parts but have purchased longer hinges which I have cut and drilled to give 6 fixing points instead of 4. I will use 4 x 2mm countersunk slot headed screws to attach them. The old holes will be filled using body filler, I will also make the third central hinge point out of brass strip and tubing.

Regards

Gary

6 holes per hinge

[Gary Richardson]

Hi all

Just a quick update as I promised Donald a photo of the rear mudguard with the 4x2 mm csk screws in place.
I am pleased with the result so far and will now start on the front mudguard hinges, once all the hinges are in place I will add the details around the edges.

Regards
Gary

2x4mm csk screws with modified hinges

[Gary Richardson]

Hi
Progress on the front mudguard. Holes need to be countersunk for the 2 x 4mm slotted screws.
Regards

Gary

[Gary Richardson]

Hi All

Having spent a couple of days puppy sitting it was time to make a bit more progress on the Tiger. I am quite pleased with how the front mudguards are progressing but still need to add more detailing. I took some time out to have a look at the loaders hatch supplied by Dave Dibbs, lots of nice detail but it was too big for the AT hatch cut out. A bit of work with a file and I have a good fit, the hinges were another matter though. The available rebate was too small for the white metal parts and without a mill I didn't have the confidence to enlarge the hinge spaces. As the holes in the AT hinges were too high and would not allow the hatch to sit flush I made my own using some scrap ally and stainless steel pins (cut down sail needle). I intend to fill the screw heads and use milliput to make the profile bigger and more realistic, that being said I have now found a bit for my Dremel that acts like a mill bit but I will need to practice before attempting to use it on the turret top.

Regards
Gary

More detail required at front and sides.

A fiddly job to do.

screw holes a bit out of line but will be filled and profiled

Pleased with the result