Tiger Ausf E “F01” Gruppe Fehrmann

[AlastairCooke]

Hi All,
Update 26 Oct 21
Was planning to wait to post until after all rear plate modifications were complete but need to spend more time on the toolbox rack. This is because it will not have a toolbox fitted and so I cannot fix the box to the plate and then fit the rack to the box.
Anyway...
On reflection the 4mm A/F bump stop nuts looked rather small so I drilled and tapped some 5mm A/F hexagonal bar for M3 which hopefully will give a more prototypical result.

Lower Side Plate Mods - Part 2
The actual sponson floor plates are fixed using a scalloped edged right-angled girder. This girder is taper-bolted to the lower plates before being welded in place. I chose to replicate this line of bolts only where it may be seen which is in between the two sets of roof supports. To achieve the look I was after, I simply marked, drilled and tapped the plate so that non-functional fixings could be added with threaded bar (4BA) and a suitable nut (one size smaller 5BA).

The track pin knocker plates are actually welded to the lower side plates. In the kit, they are affixed using countersunk M3 bolts and nuts. I decided to hide the nuts using a similar technique as that for the bump stops. A counter bore (6.0mm by 3.75mm) was milled into the plate and an M3 nut pulled into place. Eventually the nut and exposed bolt thread will be hidden with epoxy putty.

Rear Plate Modifications - Part 1
Please note that the following images may include evidence of changes discussed later and that bolts are often used to protect threads during later machining operations.

Armoured Exhaust Covers: as the attachment bolts are now M5, the corresponding holes were tapped for M5 so that threaded bar could be used to simulate the studs.

Exhaust Attachment: in reality the exhaust pipes are bolted to studs on the rear plate. This will be simulated with M4 threaded bar and nuts, therefore holes were drilled and tapped for M4.

Rear Mudguard Frame: Using dimensions provided by David Byrden (Tiger1.info) I designed a replacement support for the rear mudguards. Redundant holes where tapped and filled using cut down M5 brass bolts in a similar manner to those on the lower side plates.

Jack mountings: I have acquired the excellent 20T jack made by Mark Lawson. After slightly adjusting the position of the mounting brackets to match those shown in reference photographs of 15T jacks I tried out the jack. Obviously the fit will not be perfect as the brackets were relocated when the 20T jack replaced the 15T but it ties-in with the hastily re-equipped look I am going for.

Revised Top Attachment Brackets: As the radiator fan grills are moveable, I decided that the rear corner attachment brackets need modification to make the securing bolts less obvious. The solution was simply to reverse the direction of the bolts and countersink the brackets. Larger counterbores were machined into the rear plate to accommodate the nut. These will eventually be hidden with body filler.

Starter Plate Cover: The external detail of the armoured starter plate aperture cover plate is represented in the kit. The internal detail is, however missing, as the basic kit has the smoke unit located at the rear of the engine bay. I plan to have a fully detailed engine in this model and so I decided that some representation of this plate was required. So to start a suitable ‘cut’ was milled into the rear plate using a boring head.

Fan Drive Mounting (HL210): The fan drive gearbox for the HL 210 was mounted to the rear plate whereas it was mounted to the engine block for the HL 230. If the tank was re-engined it was typical for the mounting bosses to be left in situ. I will feature these on F01 and so the rear plate required holes milling on the inner face.

Manual Starter Plate Mounting Bosses: I had modified the rear plate to allow for a proto-typical arrangement right at the start of the build. It is now time to consider how to fabricate the bosses. The actual system involves a captive nut that rotates a bar in/out of a slot within the boss so that the plate can be demounted. The nut and bar will be represented by an M3 nut and threaded bar that will screw into a M3 tapped hole located within a M5 threaded bar that is screwed and bonded into a tapped hole in the plate. The boss will be fabricated from a 3D printed inserted within some thin walled brass tubing.

starter plate posts - external.jpg (13.26 KiB) Viewed 5410 times

starter plate posts v2.jpg (17.08 KiB) Viewed 5410 times

More modifications to follow...

Alastair

[AlastairCooke]

Hi All,
Quick update....
Whilst waiting for the centre part of the deep wading box to arrive from the 3D printers, I have moved back to the lower side plates. The inside face has been prepared for the bump stops by applying a coat of Red Oxide Primer.

You can also see that the screws used to attach the plate doublers have been hidden with body putty.

Assembly-part one
Next major milestone reached with painting and final attachment of the stiffening braces, suspension mounts and lower front and rear plates to the revised belly plate.

Areas that may be visible were given a coat of ‘red oxide’ primer (Halfords Red Primer). Some areas were over-sprayed with Mr Oxide Red Surfacer 1000 for a subtle difference, as this paint is a bit warmer in colour (contains more yellow/orange). The plan will be to overspray with Hellgrau (RAL 7009), using either Vallejo model colour 70.830 or AK interactive real color RC054, once the sides, front and rear plates are attached. I am thinking of trying some worn/chipping effects as well as a grime wash, especially in the engine bay, before the torsion bars are installed.

Alastair

[AlastairCooke]

Hi All,
Update 8 Dec 21. Rear Plate Modifications Part 2
Again note that images are ordered thematically rather than chronologically.

Reflector location:
This required some slight adjustment to accommodate the doublers I added earlier. So first, the original holes were filled:

The left hand holes was tapped for some M4 thread rod, rather than M5, to avoid getting to close to the edge of the plate.

Revised location for holes.

Fiefel and exhaust shroud mounting blocks:
3D printed blocks fitted into the pre-drilled holes. Those for the exhaust shroud are in the original locations whilst those for the Fiefel system were repositioned many months ago. The original holes provided for location of the Fiefel ‘cans’ have been be filled with threaded bar.

Fan drive mountings (HL210) and starter plate cover:

Work on these partially complete. Weld detail around mounting bosses and priming of starter plate required. I decided against adding the cut-out for the starter plate retaining bar as I could not think of a easy way to do this without cutting right through the rear plate.

Weld detail added, note that the armoured exhaust cover mounting studs are temporally located.

Toolbox Frame:
First a drawing was created from my design in Fusion360. This was then printed out 1:1 and placed on the rear plate.

Things did not look quite right so an adjustment was made to the width for a better fit with the mudguard frame.

20211027_141506-doc.jpg (71.06 KiB) Viewed 5231 times

This drawing was then used as a guide for the centre punch.

20211027_151242-doc.jpg (82.48 KiB) Viewed 5231 times

Note the mark made for a hole for the rear lamp wiring.

Holes drilled (toolbox frame 1.4mm and lamp wiring 2.0mm) and originals filled.
Starter Handle Clamps:
As I plan to use the Armourpax tool clamps the original fixing holes are oversize. Therefore, this time I pre-drilled the M5 threaded rod to accept a BA12 bolt before gluing and milling smooth.

A pocket was arranged inside by not passing the rod all the way through.

Exhaust pipe attachment:

Studs machined and fitted temporarily. Were later glued using thick CA before holes were filled and sanded so that they are not visible on the inside.

Deep wading air box:
This is a three-part 3D print that was detailed with 10BA hex bolts (from BA Bolts). Some are longer and used ‘key’ the items when epoxied in place. Note that the aperture for the vertical pipe that was designed to feed the engine compartment during wading has been deleted. I have made the assumption that a new plate was made by the Pz.Ers.Abt.500 Werkstatt during the engine change from the HL210 to the HL230.

Before, fixing: showing ends of exhaust mounting studs as well.

After fixing onto etched primed surface. Note also that the exhaust studs are no longer visible on the inside. Box just needs some weld detail around the edge:

Weld detail added.

That's all for now.
Alastair

[AlastairCooke]

Hi All,
Update 2 Jan 22
Weld detail added to the rear plate details using standard Milliput.

20211214_114636-doc.jpg (145.16 KiB) Viewed 5100 times

external

and internal
Tarp loops and Rear S-mine fittings:
Holes were drilled into the top edge of the plate to provide locations for tarpaulin loops and the rear S-mine units using the rig I devised previously for the Fiefel mounting blocks. Good job I photographed how I did it all those months ago!
Rear plate internal details complete, for now. Will need to add the tow hitch when the plates have been ‘Loctited’ together

Back to the lower side plates...
Bump Stops installed

external view

internal view
Close-up of shock absorber attachment bolt head

20211217_081404-doc.jpg (31.02 KiB) Viewed 5100 times

‘Knocker’ plate
I decided to replace the stock part with one that better depicts the fact that it was fabricated from steel plate. Initially I tried to mill out surplus material from the supplied brass part. This was not very successful so opted for a 3D print in steel as the tracks may make contact with it when running.

test fit
I will add the necessary weld detail when the lower sides are permanently attached as the side securing bolt heads need to be hidden with body putty beforehand.
Rolled plate texture
I had a go at simulating rolled plate using the method detailed in the Knowledge Base, thanks Stephen. Upol High Build primer was sprayed in a few random spots then stippled with a stiff brush before the brush was dragged horizontally. I worked small areas at a time as the primer hardens quickly. I decided to try the technique on the lower sides as the wheels would cover most of it, so I could practice knowing any mistakes would be hidden.

I am pleased with the result and will make it more obvious on the lower front plate as well as in a few places on the rear plate.
Assembly continues with the lower plates...

First paint overspray was removed from the suspension mounting bars. I used an adjustable reamer to remove paint from the bushings.

Lower right side attached using M6 cap screws and torsion bar fixed ends.

Lower hull complete.
The next tasks are to detail the glacis plate and front upper plate so that assembly of the Wanne can continue. I want to get the basic chassis re-assembled to check on the fit before applying Loctite and weld detail.

Happy New Year...
That's all for now...
Alastair

[AlastairCooke]

Hi All,
Update 1 Feb 22
Moving on to glacis plate modifications
Snow shovel clips
As the snow shovel has a raised clip holding the blade end, the fixing onto the glacis plate needs changing. The single hole was filled using M5 threaded brass rod and two holes drilled to accept an offset bracket.

Drivers forward vision system
The guard bar features a tongue that fits into a groove that is machined into the glacis plate. This detail is absent on the kit. After much thought I decided to forego machining the slot using a slitting saw, as this would require fixing the plate in a vertical orientation and using a small shank to hold the blade. Instead, I decided to use an end mill and hold the plate flat to the bed...which resulted in this slot design.

Tongue added to guard bar, trial fit, awaiting pieces to form slot ends.

Image below shows how the top of the tapered bolts were made...turned down a 7BA cheese head bolt to eliminate the slot. Right hand one ended up a little too deep, so added a Plasticard shim.

Slot ends in position, will be blended into glacis plate after it has been primed.

Final look...

Diver’s visor
Both the upper and lower elements were replaced with reshaped 3D printed parts. The bolt holes on the lower part were moved down slightly to give adequate clearance between it and the glacis plate.

The shape of the upper part was changed to include a lip...

... it was printed hollow so that additional mass could be added to ensure that it stays put when the tank is in motion.

Final look for visor just needs some cast texture on the side armour.

Side skirt bosses
As the Wanne for F01 was manufactured in March 1943 it featured the revised side skirt segments that were all the same length (1240 mm). Whilst my Armortek kit (Tiger 131 from 2015) has the bosses correctly aligned, they are positioned for the original two-segment design. Consequently the holes needed filling and new ones drilling. The original holes were tapped for M6 and filled with lengths of threaded rod. This was then milled flat and blended away....

Measurements show that the distance between the end bosses was 819mm (4914mm full size) which is longer than scale as it should be 4860mm full size giving 810mm at 1/6. I decided to adjust the spacing and segment length to match the model, resulting in 64mm spacing for the each boss and a 17mm gap between segments (12 x 64 + 3 x 17 = 819). Replacement skirts will be created using etched parts, probably in 0.7mm thick brass.

Road wheel swing arm adjustments
As the grub screw ‘cross pins’ stand proud when simply fixed in place I decided to drill into the axles and torsion bar ends for added security. Although various options are possible here, I chose to use dog point grub screws. These have a 2.5mm diameter end and so a matching hole has drilled first, followed by a shallower 3.3mm hole then a few turns with a bottoming tap.

Grub screws then fixed using red Loctite and will be hidden with some Milliput. Next job, remove excess material from the axles and torsion bar bosses. Using parallels in vice...

result after milling...

That is all for now... next job is build up the torsion bars.

Alastair

[Robert E Morey]

Fantastic details Alistair. Great for all Tiger lovers.
Best regards,
B

[simon_manning]

Eye opener, Great build, just when you think you can't squeeze anymore out of a Tiger kit, regards simon manning.

[AlastairCooke]

Hi All,
Update 22 Feb 22
Progress in lots of different areas...
Swing Arms
The instructions call for the road wheel swing arms to be set at 30 degrees. This angle is then retained by M6 screws. I decided, along with many previous builders of the Tiger, to machine flats onto the torsion bar ends. This process was eased by using a custom designed fixture:

20220126_103829-doc.jpg (60.32 KiB) Viewed 4783 times

Final Drive Guards
These were modified with a cap some time ago, now refitted to check clearances. Will be epoxied to the Armortek parts when they have been 'misted' with primer.

20220111_120336-doc.jpg (77.06 KiB) Viewed 4783 times

Bolt Protectors
The bolt protectors were replaced with 3D printed items so that the internal chamfer could be introduced without any complex machining. This modification will allow the addition of the weld in a realistic manner.

Button headed screws will be replaced with studs and nuts.
Rear Plate Fixing
View of revised rear bracket with countersunk and reversed fixings.

Update on side skirts
Many thanks to the Tiger 1 forum for this idea. Drilling template in position...

and in use...

Track Cable Brackets
The position of the track cable brackets also required adjustment to account for a redesign of the brackets themselves and to match the layout shown in contemporary photographs of F01. Original holes will be drilled and tapped for M5 threaded bar. Although ‘The Modellers Guide to the Tiger Tank’ suggested that the layout did not change until May 1943, the images of F01 (built in Mar 43) clearly show it had this layout. Consequently, I used the drawing in the Guide as a reference for the new holes.

Lifting Post Holes
Holes opened out, with a boring head, to accept a redesigned part.

Finally.... I decide that now was the time to modify my lifting table in readiness to accept a scissor jack...

More to follow but that's all for now.
Alastair

[simon_manning]

i love this build, Another level, regards simon manning.

[AlastairCooke]

Hi Simon,
Many thanks for the kind comments. Progress is slow as I am trying to avoid having to drill and tap holes in parts that are in place. Hope to have the rest of the hull plates, apart from the roof, etch primed in the next month or so.

Alastair

[AlastairCooke]

Hi All,
Update 22 Mar 22
Lots of little steps this time....
Front track holders
F01 featured track links as additional armour. This required some hooks on the front plate to hold the links by their track pin. A prototype was mocked up and used to set the position of some additional holes.

Sponson support angle

The faux sponson support angle brace was finally epoxied into place so that weld detail could be added before the sponson floor was fixed to the chassis. You can also see some countersunk holes. These were added to secure internal bearers that will provide a mounting for trays to carry electrics etc. Spray booth in action again getting the sponsons etch-primed ready for final fix.

Weld details and hiding fixings.
Starting with the underside so I can perfect the technique?

Plate fixing wedges

one wedge fitted

and ‘welded’ in.

Final Drive housing
Decided to take my rotary table for a spin ( ) to improve the profile of the final drive housings.

before...

20220316_180306-doc.jpg (51.79 KiB) Viewed 4485 times

and after

20220316_180320-doc.jpg (50.88 KiB) Viewed 4485 times

Would have liked to round off the cover over the pinion gear but there is not enough material to do this safely.

Final Drive Protectors

final fix

partly 'welded' in, attachment improved with a counter sink M3 screw on the underside.

Front Mudguard Clips
Just as well, I had not rushed to permanently fix the lower chassis plates as I noticed an item missing from the kit that was present on F01. This was the clips that secured the front mud flaps in the down position. A suitable hole was marked and drilled (before any of the previous actions).

Then the mounting bracket was designed and ‘printed’ in brass...

20220322_142006-doc.jpg (38.11 KiB) Viewed 4485 times

That's all for now,
Alastair

[AlastairCooke]

Hi All,
Update 4 Apr 22
With final assembly continuing, it is time to consider the paint scheme. I shall be using paints from the AK Interactive Real Color range.

As discussed at the beginning of this thread by the time F01 was knocked out in early April 1945 it was a re-wheeled and re-engined amalgam of three vehicles. So...
Chassis (Wanne) Fgst.Nr. 250158 (Mar 43)
Exterior
Although delivery of this vehicle post dates order H. M. 1943, Nr. 181 of 18 Feb 43 (requiring base coat of Dunkelgelb nach Muster) and order H. M. 1942, Nr. 315 of 25 Mar 42 (requiring base coat of Braun RAL 8020) I have decided to use Gelbbraun RAL 8000 (Yellow Brown RC063) which is the same colour used on Tiger 131 (Fgst.Nr. 250122 – Feb 43)
Interior
The order to cease painting the lower part of the chassis was not issued until mid 1943 and so the lower half will be Hellgrau RAL 7009 (Light Grey RC054) and the upper half will be Elfenbein RAL 1001 (Ivory RC046)

Running Gear
Resilient road wheels were not available before February 1944 and so the re-wheeling must have been later. By then Dunkelgelb was the base colour and so I have chosen to use Dunkelgelb Ausgabe 1944 RAL 7028 (Dark Yellow Version 44 RC061)

Turret
The turret has a drum cupola, provision for the carriage of track links and zimmerit. This means it comes from a vehicle produced between late April 1943 and July 1943 and that the zimmerit was applied ‘in the field’ after August 1943. A typical three tone camouflage scheme is therefore appropriate:
Dunkelgelb RAL 7028 (Dark Yellow RC060)
Olivgrun RAL6003 (Olive Green RC047)
Rotbraun RAL 8017 (Red Brown RC068)
The number ‘F01’ is Rot RAL 3000 (Red RC006) edged in Weiss RAL 9001 (White RC004)

The main gun and mantlet will be painted in the same colours but have a different scheme and zimmerit style to emphasise that it came from a different vehicle.

That is all for now,
Alastair

[AlastairCooke]

Hi All,
Update 13 Apr 22
I decided to improve the front mudguard hinges by putting a hinge block on to the glacis plate. I will also try something more prototypical with the mudguards themselves in the future...

Note the revised lifting post socket.

Tow Hitch

Tow hitch finally epoxied into place, nut and bolts used to secure it whilst the glue ‘goes off’. The nuts will be replaced with castellated examples both inside and out...

Knocker Plate
Fixed into place

weld detail added

Idler wheel axle boss
These were lightly textured with a stippling of Mr Surfacer 500 and ‘welded’ in place...

Painting the interior.
With the exception of the engine bay, a lot of the chassis plating will be obscured by the electrics etc. Even so I decided to paint and weather most of it. This will enable me to practice airbrushing and try out some weathering ideas safe in the knowledge that if it is rubbish no one will see!
Red oxide coat on top of grey etch primer, then RAL 7009, then some oil paint washes:

some light rusting on the rear plate

Tried out some oil and fuel stains as well

Idler bosses and motor mounts

The motor mounts were left in red oxide to mimic the brake units of the Tiger.

That's all for now
Alastair

[Christoffer Ahlfors]

With the exception of the engine bay, a lot of the chassis plating will be obscured by the electrics etc. Even so I decided to paint and weather most of it. This will enable me to practice airbrushing and try out some weathering ideas safe in the knowledge that if it is rubbish no one will see!

It also comes with the added benefit that lost items will be much easier to find!

//

[AlastairCooke]

Hi All,
Update 5 May 22
Work continues on assembly of the Wanne with glacis plate welds...

Front upper plate

Brass strip attached to form channel to protect weld detail. I also added some holes so that I could include the 8 bolts that secure the Kugelblende. I plan to include basic details of the driver’s vision port.

Assembly of upper chassis plate begins with applying red oxide to the inside...

That's all for now...
Alastair