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Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Forum for discussion relating to the Chietain MBT
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simon_manning
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by simon_manning »

I am enjoying the build also, chieftain rules the build roost at the moment, regards simon.

Stephen White
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Stephen White »

Phil, I owe you a reply about the photos you posted above. I can safely say I've never seen any of the fittings I've arrowed on this pic. That doesn't necessarily mean they're not of official origin but I'm guessing they're either a trial fit or more likely something which has been added since the vehicle was disposed of.

Picture 1.jpg
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John Clarke
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by John Clarke »

With all those hand rails present do you think they've applied for a disability grant? :lol:
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Steve Ellis »

I can defiantly say that none of the vehicles in my regiment where fitted with these, I agree with Stephen that they were probably fitted after disposal.
Anybody who has climbed into the drivers cab with the gun rear will know haw cumbersome it was without all those extra rails in the way.

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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Phil Woollard »

Lots done to the front plate. 8)
Attachments
Just about done here I think.
Just about done here I think.
I will add painted on filters to the lenses but not just yet, I won't worry about over spray as this is easily rubbed off later.
I will add painted on filters to the lenses but not just yet, I won't worry about over spray as this is easily rubbed off later.
It's a time consuming fiddly job adding the letters and numbers but I do like the result.
It's a time consuming fiddly job adding the letters and numbers but I do like the result.
If you decide to soft solder the fender joints your going to need a big iron, this one is rated at 240w.
If you decide to soft solder the fender joints your going to need a big iron, this one is rated at 240w.
Plenty of flux applied to the clean joint.The solder neatly in place and almost ready for the milliput.
Plenty of flux applied to the clean joint.The solder neatly in place and almost ready for the milliput.
The soldered joint ready for the iron.
The soldered joint ready for the iron.
A tip, always check your continuity before you install and more on.
A tip, always check your continuity before you install and more on.
I needed to get the driving lamps all wired and out the way
I needed to get the driving lamps all wired and out the way
Just about all the detail added to the drivers hatch now
Just about all the detail added to the drivers hatch now
Collar made and pegged into place.
Collar made and pegged into place.
Last edited by Phil Woollard on Sun Dec 01, 2019 3:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Phil Woollard »

More work done.
Attachments
A very expensive pair of overalls from ebay but to rare so not to be missed
A very expensive pair of overalls from ebay but to rare so not to be missed
Using my angle gauge to obtain the correct collar positions, the little tool was one of the better purchases from ebay.
Using my angle gauge to obtain the correct collar positions, the little tool was one of the better purchases from ebay.
The collar needs dressing to match the casting angle, this is easily formed using a hand file.
The collar needs dressing to match the casting angle, this is easily formed using a hand file.
I keep all the smaller broken drill bits to use as dowels, it's only the smooth shank that you want but as it's an exact size and therefore fits the drill bit hole it's very convenient.
I keep all the smaller broken drill bits to use as dowels, it's only the smooth shank that you want but as it's an exact size and therefore fits the drill bit hole it's very convenient.
Using the peg technique to fix the collar permanently in place.
Using the peg technique to fix the collar permanently in place.
IMG_20191130_150615_kindlephoto-50350139.jpg
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John Clarke
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by John Clarke »

Nice work Phil,
I've notice not all Chieftains had the collar fitted, I've wondered if it was a Mk thing or an add on. And can I ask why there's a hole in the splash board?
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Phil Woollard »

Hi John, I'm loving this build bet you are too ? I will be sad when I have to hand this model over to the boss! That hole in the wash board is to let the water out lol. 8)
Attachments
IMG_20191130_160758_kindlephoto-50091211.jpg
th (1).jpeg
th (1).jpeg (24.68 KiB) Viewed 1635 times
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by John Clarke »

Phil it's the model that just keeps giving. There's so much more to look forward too yet. Just wait till we get the motion kit, then there's the turret and Dave Dibbs bits to lust over. and not a Maybach noise to be heard :!:
Shame, I've got to go to work. but the pet shops boys will keep me going as "you are always on my mind" :D
Oh Man, I only ride em I don't know what makes them work,
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Stephen White »

John Clarke wrote:
Sun Dec 01, 2019 11:00 pm
I've notice not all Chieftains had the collar fitted, I've wondered if it was a Mk thing or an add on. And can I ask why there's a hole in the splash board?

John, Phil, the Vickers drawing for the Deflector is dated 1969, so the design was available very early on in Chieftain's life. It was introduced after early operational experience. The Chieftain glacis with the reclining driver's position was new and there was no experience of the interaction with deep water. The troop trials revealed, as they were intended to do, that the driver could enjoy a thorough soaking if he was opened up and took a deep puddle too fast. The water flowed up over the glacis and rebounded off the turret down into his cab and his neck. The concern was not so much with the driver's comfort as with the risk that water would impinge on the batteries which were alongside his seat.

I've looked through my Regimental photos and the fitting doesn't seem to relate to any particular mark. This photo is from 1970 and there is no Deflector behind the driver.

4RTR 1970 Lcpl Fred Colpitts Guides tank out onto main road.jpg

It is fitted on this A Sqn tank in Berlin in 1972.

IMG_3320 (1).jpg

But not on this one in Tidworth in 1983. Mind you, the UK based tanks were always at a lower modification state.

4RTR James Younger 1983.jpg
4RTR James Younger 1983.jpg (98.07 KiB) Viewed 1626 times

So to answer your question John, the Deflector was not mark specific but was an in-service modification, fitted as and when a tank went through base overhaul.

Phil, I think a mouse must have got at your splash plate, the hole doesn't appear to be very common......

Screenshot 2019-12-02 at 09.39.47.jpg

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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Phil Woollard »

These bins are going to take a while but looking like it will be well worth the effort. 8) I've just ordered a other 200 m2 hex fixings as I'm getting through them like crazy and some smaller more scale piano hinge for the bins.
Attachments
Nothing seems to line up so I will rearrange things so it will all line up.I am also adding the brackets between the bins.
Nothing seems to line up so I will rearrange things so it will all line up.I am also adding the brackets between the bins.
One bin about half way to being sorted.
One bin about half way to being sorted.
Brackets added all round and for every bin the same process.
Brackets added all round and for every bin the same process.
The bins should sit on the ribs as the 1/1.
The bins should sit on the ribs as the 1/1.
Stephen those angle brackets I have used were from your Cent spares that you sent me!
Stephen those angle brackets I have used were from your Cent spares that you sent me!
IMG_20191202_154527_kindlephoto-55523778.jpg
My method of mounting the bins fairly close to the original.
My method of mounting the bins fairly close to the original.
Marking out for the stiffning strips.
Marking out for the stiffning strips.
The joins will require some fetling.
The joins will require some fetling.
IMG_20191202_135927_kindlephoto-55709939.jpg
Last edited by Phil Woollard on Mon Dec 02, 2019 7:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Mark Heaps »

Stephen White wrote:
Mon Dec 02, 2019 9:58 am
John, Phil, the Vickers drawing for the Deflector is dated 1969, so the design was available very early on in Chieftain's life. It was introduced after early operational experience.

So to answer your question John, the Deflector was not mark specific but was an in-service modification, fitted as and when a tank went through base overhaul.
Hi Stephen,
I do not recall it fitted on any of the Chieftains that we disposed of to get replaced by Challenger 1. It would also serve as a catch plate for any water coming over the bow. The water would first have to pass over it before it could be deflected on the way back down.

Possibly a well-meant in-service modification to deflect rain water coming off the turret front. Very good for the Berlin tanks in an urban environment, I would think, but bad for us going cross-country and fording.

Mark

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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Stephen White »

Mark,

If you had suffered a drenching from over - enthusiastic use of the right boot going through water you might appreciate the deflector. The Bovington D&M instructors used to encourage young troop leaders on our course to drive hard. Only the very wise had the sense to enter water at a steady pace and keep the bow wave ahead of them. If you hir water hard and then took you foot off, the bow wave progressed up the glacis and divided to flow around the drivers hatch. At that point, you breathed a premature sigh of relief, followed shortly after by the backwash flooding down your back. The deflector took the water moving back down towards the front to either side. Nothing to do with rain water. The deflector was not present on Mark 10 and 11, where the Stillbrew armor replaced it. As a consequence, those marks were vulnerable to driver’s dousings.

Back to Phil’s bins.

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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Phil Woollard »

The two off side front bins now have all the joints soldered. Ignore the brass hinges that are with the kit I have continuous hinges arriving soon. The plan is to have just the piano hinge roll visible, this will require a slither cutting off the lids using my very thin angle grinder blade.
Attachments
Please ignore the brass hinges, they will be changed but are currently allowing the fit to be assessed .
Please ignore the brass hinges, they will be changed but are currently allowing the fit to be assessed .
In the middle of reconstructing the awkward triangular bin pointy end.
In the middle of reconstructing the awkward triangular bin pointy end.
There's an awful lot of work going into these bins, then I have to do it all over again on the nr side.
There's an awful lot of work going into these bins, then I have to do it all over again on the nr side.
IMG_19700117_210115_kindlephoto-244996.jpg
Can't fit the beautiful hasp and staple bin locks just yet as I need to fit the continuous hinges when they arrive which will no doubt throw all the shut lines off.
Can't fit the beautiful hasp and staple bin locks just yet as I need to fit the continuous hinges when they arrive which will no doubt throw all the shut lines off.
I have removed the strange ends on the triangular bin.
I have removed the strange ends on the triangular bin.
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Steve Ellis »

Hi Phil
Though these pics of the triangular bins might help.
Attachments
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68C85FA9-E0AA-45E1-A24A-C18EA194B173.jpeg

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