Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

[Phil Woollard]

I will check for any flexing of the rear deck once the turret is fitted, I can then decide if it's feasible.

[John Clarke]

It's a difficult call on the nut, I'm not making any changes to the suspension, support or drive systems. Armortek have far more knowledge than I'll ever have.
It might be possible to hide the nut with a small cowling cover, recessing just weakens the block, It depends how far you need to go.

When you polished the rear gearbox bearing hub I wondered can you actually see the hub when the sprocket and track has been fitted.
Even now I'm thinking should I or shouldn't polish the hubs up. The gearbox housing is "sort of" the right shape and so are the detail parts I made. I may leave it like that.

[Phil Woollard]

John you do what you feels suits you, and what you are happy to live with. I may even go back over some areas as I research and find even more relevant detail! Yours is looking great all ready. Boy we have a long ways to go yet! I think I will turn some covers for that idler nut, or will never sleep tonight.

[John Clarke]

Wish I was as far forward as yourself, I look forward to having the hull on it's tracks, then the fun really starts.
Trying new stuff is part and parcel of the hobby and your a master of it.

I put one suspension unit together the other night not realizing the spring unit falls out unless the swing arms put pressure on it. Which they won't as there's no hub, wheel or track to hold it all together. Still it does allow the completion of the spring units once painted. An elastic band holds it together at the moment.

By the way the 1:5 Chieftain suffered from scuffing of the rear gearbox housing so keeping the tracks taut is a must, though you won't be able to get your fist between track and mudguard.

[Phil Woollard]

The bigger parts cleanup and priming, and they are big! John if you tighten the m8 bolts for the swing arms they will stay in place and so hold the springs while you work on the rest of the suspension unit. Then loosen the bolts after fitting the assembly.

[John Clarke]

Thanks for the tip on the suspension units Phil.

Will you be leaving the rear deck loose for access to the drive motors gearboxes or is it possible to mount them with the rear end buttoned up.

I've got hold of some 8mm half nut nyloc's, which work well with the suspension units and should be useful on the idler front mounting blocks. Allowing for a shorter sleeve to cover the nut.

[Phil Woollard]

I want to have the T plate removable if at all possible so that the pack bay can be opened up like the 1/1 example, then there is plenty of room to get to the motors. I need to assemble all those god dam deck vents first, I am dreading that job but it must be done very soon so I can plan all the deck plate modifications.

[Phil Woollard]

I'm back on the case first photo detailing the first of the hull side fitting s using only hand tools.

[Phil Woollard]

I've been cleaning up and test fitting some of the bigger parts. I still haven't started on those louvers yet. That turret rotates effortlessly with just one finger.

[Steve Ellis]

Hi Phil

Been following your build with keen interest, your doing a grand job.
To answer your question regarding the texture of the turret I would leave it as it is.
I served on Chieftain for 13 years, all the surfaces had a gritted anti slip texture on them including the bins.
Hope this helps.

[John Clarke]

Starting to look pretty Phil, although I'm sure the casting chap must have had the dropsy's with your turret.
Though I haven't put any paint near mine yet, so they may show up then.
There's a crease effect in the casting that I'm sure needs flattening out, see picture. I cannot remember seeing it during clambering over the turret years ago. if it is supposed to be there please shout out
I'm going to try and leave the sand cast effect too, if not a little down graded once the etch primer goes on. I like the casting effect and have not tried to remove it anywhere where it does not impede against anything else. Other detailed work like the little openings for the emergency sight and other tiny things bring the turret to life.
I was also toying with the idea of magnets instead of screws to hold the turret roof down for easy access.

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[Stephen White]

Phil, as Steve says, it's fine as is. The turret and some areas of the hull had an anti-slip applied after casting. There is a drawing listed to define the areas on which the paint was applied but I don't sadly have a copy. This shows it was factory applied, to a standard pattern.

I did a post on it somewhere with some photos but can't find it.

These might help:

[Phil Woollard]

Guys, Steve, John and Stephen thank you all so much for this valuable info, your input is great for all those building this complex monster. There is so much to learn, so much extra detail, every time I look at at another photo that's posted I can see tons more detail that I have never been able to see before. This is a very enjoyable build and a very steep learning curve!

[Phil Woollard]

After dry fitting the parts are further cleaned up and etch primed.

[Richard Goodwin]

Phil, as Steve says, it's fine as is. The turret and some areas of the hull had an anti-slip applied after casting. There is a drawing listed to define the areas on which the paint was applied but I don't sadly have a copy. This shows it was factory applied, to a standard pattern.

I did a post on it somewhere with some photos but can't find it.

These might help:


DJI_0033.jpg


IMG_8593.jpg


DJI_0035.jpg


DJI_0062.jpg

Phil, my apologies for capturing your thread but Stephen, would you happen to have any more pictures of the turret which clearly shows the Stillbrew armour? In particular, the side where the ATU is located?
Once again, apologies Phil!