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Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Forum for discussion relating to the Chietain MBT
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Richard Goodwin
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Richard Goodwin »

Always love a straight answer Phil :D :D

Phil Woollard
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Phil Woollard »

Yesterdays work with a few fixes. 8)
Attachments
You just as well countersink the hull fixings now, if you want a flush and flat finish this is a must, also if you are going to fit the jacking points the front hull fixings will be under those. A tip for those new to the engineering/machining side; countersink at very slow speeds with a lubricant or it will "chatter" and spoil the hole.
You just as well countersink the hull fixings now, if you want a flush and flat finish this is a must, also if you are going to fit the jacking points the front hull fixings will be under those. A tip for those new to the engineering/machining side; countersink at very slow speeds with a lubricant or it will "chatter" and spoil the hole.
Boy it's long
Boy it's long
IMG_20191018_140558283.jpg
Nice fit of parts. I have left the countersink m4 threads long as I may need to use this extra length for the gear box or possible other additional fittings fixing points, it cuts down on hull drilling and tapping.
Nice fit of parts. I have left the countersink m4 threads long as I may need to use this extra length for the gear box or possible other additional fittings fixing points, it cuts down on hull drilling and tapping.
IMG_20191018_142514615.jpg
A couple of the brass bushes needed finishing, you could do this in the vice with a drill bit or use a lathe, no big deal. There is plenty of end float so I think that they would fit and function anyway.I just want this to be perfect.
A couple of the brass bushes needed finishing, you could do this in the vice with a drill bit or use a lathe, no big deal. There is plenty of end float so I think that they would fit and function anyway.I just want this to be perfect.
IMG_20191018_144137102.jpg
IMG_20191018_144438883.jpg
IMG_20191018_152926206_HDR.jpg
The finished return roller assembly, very nice. Please note the rubber tyres are not bonded at this stage as it's a whole lot easier to remove them for painting rather than masking up. I will bond after top coat.
The finished return roller assembly, very nice. Please note the rubber tyres are not bonded at this stage as it's a whole lot easier to remove them for painting rather than masking up. I will bond after top coat.
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Commission builds considered. Pm for my email.

Phil Woollard
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Phil Woollard »

Going back to the gpmg 7.62 link that I have just ordered take a look at the quality. Now as the gun cycles the round, the bolt de links the round spitting the spent shell and the link out the way. If the kit is as good as it looks I can have a selection of link and de headed empty rnds scattered around the weapon. Lets see just how good they are when they arrive!
Stephen how did you catch your spent rnds? I know that SPTA insists that all brass is picked up and returned for recycling , back in the day no one cared and millions of rnds were just left in the mud, as kids we would sort through the piles and remove the blanks that did not get fired, I must have clipped tens of thousands to extract the cordite to make pipe bombs! :roll: You cant do that now!
Attachments
s-l500 (3).jpg
s-l500 (3).jpg (46.46 KiB) Viewed 16975 times
s-l500 (4).jpg
s-l500 (4).jpg (43.49 KiB) Viewed 16975 times
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Chris Hall
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Chris Hall »

Phil Woollard wrote:
Sat Oct 19, 2019 5:41 pm
I know that SPTA insists that all brass is picked up and returned for recycling , back in the day no one cared and millions of rnds were just left in the mud, as kids we would sort through the piles and remove the blanks that did not get fired, I must have clipped tens of thousands to extract the cordite to make pipe bombs! :roll: You cant do that now!
Yes you can. I live about 200 yards from SPTA (Salisbury Plain Training Area), and my wife and I walk our dog up there pretty well every day. We see loads of bullets and clips all the time, and we've handed in some live ones. Just because there are rules, doesn't mean they're religiously followed ...... :roll:
Mark IV (Liesel, Abteilung 14, France 1918)
M3 Lee (25 Dragoons, Burma 1944)
Universal Carrier (2/Wiltshires, Italy 1944)
Panther (Deserter, 145 RAC, Italy 1944)
Centurion Mk 3 (8KRIH, Korea 1950/51)
Morris Quad, 25-pdr & limber (45RA, Korea 1951)

Phil Woollard
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Phil Woollard »

I do miss SPTA Chris.
A little tease from today's work and what to do if you encounter the same little snags in tomorrows detailed post. 8)
Attachments
IMG_20191019_111953757.jpg
The front plate. Maybe I was just unlucky with this one.
The front plate. Maybe I was just unlucky with this one.
The beautiful road wheel centres tooling marks clean up.
The beautiful road wheel centres tooling marks clean up.
Last edited by Phil Woollard on Sun Oct 20, 2019 9:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Phil Woollard
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Phil Woollard »

Yesterdays Photos today. I have a plan for the rear belly plate angle as it rises toward the rear plate, has anyone else considered cutting and shutting to let in the hull triangular rear section? I will try and find photos for another post on this modification.
Attachments
Dry fit of the road wheels and centres, the fit is excellent so all ready for primmer.
Dry fit of the road wheels and centres, the fit is excellent so all ready for primmer.
The jacking point plates drilled and tapped in place, the countersink holes will be filled and the many milliput weld details added in a bit.
The jacking point plates drilled and tapped in place, the countersink holes will be filled and the many milliput weld details added in a bit.
After, now looking good as it's "front of house " and for all to see.
After, now looking good as it's "front of house " and for all to see.
During, You could  use a hand drill and emery paper to get the same result.
During, You could use a hand drill and emery paper to get the same result.
And before
And before
All the photo sequences are arse backward as usual The plate after the dressing, you would hardly know.
All the photo sequences are arse backward as usual The plate after the dressing, you would hardly know.
Using a hardened steel "dolly" to persuade the metal back to where it should be, there were two of these dents either side probably from the press break process, no big deal.
Using a hardened steel "dolly" to persuade the metal back to where it should be, there were two of these dents either side probably from the press break process, no big deal.
This side of the plate only had half the angle milled, so I used a bastard file to form the correct angle. Now I'm sure Armortek would have replaced this problematic front plate if I had asked but is a challenge for me and keeps me on my toes.
This side of the plate only had half the angle milled, so I used a bastard file to form the correct angle. Now I'm sure Armortek would have replaced this problematic front plate if I had asked but is a challenge for me and keeps me on my toes.
Don't know what the machine was thinking here lol.
Don't know what the machine was thinking here lol.
IMG_20191018_130639185_HDR (1).jpg
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Commission builds considered. Pm for my email.

Phil Woollard
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Phil Woollard »

That rear belly plate that is bugging me to fix it!
Attachments
And a nice photo of the bath plug up front.
And a nice photo of the bath plug up front.
Chieftain Mk11 13.jpg
It would be a lot of work but we'll worth the effort to get the correct look.
It would be a lot of work but we'll worth the effort to get the correct look.
Mechanical engineer.
2 Youtube channels, Phil Woollard and Magpiespyro. Facebook/ Phil Woollard.
Commission builds considered. Pm for my email.

Manny Leung
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Manny Leung »

My chieftain arrives tomorrow I hope I don't have the same problem on the front plate as you have! I don't have the necessarily skill nor tools to correct it so I may have to ask for a replacement :roll:
Phil I am learning and picking up tips every time you make a post so keep them coming! Keep up the good work :D

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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Stephen White »

It’s a consistent feature so a replacement won’t help. Same witness marks on mine. It’s a result of the work holding clamps. Can be dressed out.

Good to see you’re thinking of the rear plates Phil. As well as the new plate, I’ve got a couple of fixes to do on that area to sort out the geometry of the rear plate. As ever, it’s a judgment about whether it’s worth the effort. I think it is in this case.

Phil Woollard
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Phil Woollard »

Manny if you get stuck I will talk you through the fix, if you really get stuck then send it to me and will fix it at cost! 8)
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Manny Leung
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Manny Leung »

Thanks Phil really appreciate your offer,its great for newbies like us to have someone on hand for help and for reference.Really looking forward for my kit to be delivered tomorrow.cheers👌

Phil Woollard
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Phil Woollard »

No worries mate, you will love the kit it's awesome. I'm waiting on a 1/35 kit to arrive which should have been here a week ago, that kit is for for extra detail reference duties, like the belly plates and that awkward rear hull angle that I want to change, £50 well spent I think! 8)
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Phil Woollard
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Phil Woollard »

I have had a very productive day, more photos and some tips tomorrow.
Attachments
Love these assemblies.
Love these assemblies.
After some more research I have found even more detail to add to the road wheels.
After some more research I have found even more detail to add to the road wheels.
IMG_20191021_154757163.jpg
Mechanical engineer.
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Commission builds considered. Pm for my email.

Phil Woollard
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Phil Woollard »

As promised the rest of yesterdays photos. Looking at those m3 cap heads used to hold the road wheels on, well they need changing for hex head and the "front of house " m3 nuts need to be changed out for the 1970's lock nuts so I shall order a couple of hundred of each today.
Attachments
Todays ever so exciting tip, make your own very close  side cutters for getting into those tight places, like nipping back the rivets "flush" just grind the jaws on you bench grinder even flatter ( the flat side only mind!)
Todays ever so exciting tip, make your own very close side cutters for getting into those tight places, like nipping back the rivets "flush" just grind the jaws on you bench grinder even flatter ( the flat side only mind!)
Some days it's like a little production line in the machine shop.Centre drilling the hub caps before a 3mm hole to accept the little brass piece. I'm using the hub thread to hold the fragile hub cap for the machining process.
Some days it's like a little production line in the machine shop.Centre drilling the hub caps before a 3mm hole to accept the little brass piece. I'm using the hub thread to hold the fragile hub cap for the machining process.
A 3mm hole and some cyno and all is well
A 3mm hole and some cyno and all is well
Don't ask me where I found these little brass dodads but they sure do look the part. I can tell you what they look like, and that's servo mount rubber inserts.
Don't ask me where I found these little brass dodads but they sure do look the part. I can tell you what they look like, and that's servo mount rubber inserts.
The hub centres now look correct with the grease nipple aperture added.
The hub centres now look correct with the grease nipple aperture added.
The bearings need tapping home fairly well on the inner side of the axle, the other side just a little pressure was required to seat.
The bearings need tapping home fairly well on the inner side of the axle, the other side just a little pressure was required to seat.
The inner m3 cap heads although not really seen to easily, in my opinion, need replacing for hex.
The inner m3 cap heads although not really seen to easily, in my opinion, need replacing for hex.
The m3 nuts just dont look correct. I will also drill some but not all of the road wheel outer disc (not the rim) to further detail the wheels.
The m3 nuts just dont look correct. I will also drill some but not all of the road wheel outer disc (not the rim) to further detail the wheels.
IMG_20191021_162548893.jpg
Mechanical engineer.
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Commission builds considered. Pm for my email.

Vince Cutajar
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Vince Cutajar »

Don't ask me where I found these little brass dodads but they sure do look the part.
It seems there are various names for them. Used mostly in leather work and garments. There are various sizes also .

https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcingmap®-1 ... 199&sr=8-5


Vince

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