The V2 project

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Jeffrey Goff
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Re: The V2 project

Post by Jeffrey Goff »

Superb build Phil, love your enthusiasm and skill and the ability to think outside the box in problem solving,
watching with interest, one of my projects to do is a V1, I already have a working pulse engine
Regards Jeff

Phil Woollard
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Re: The V2 project

Post by Phil Woollard »

Well it keeps me occupied! I'm very familiar with the pulse jet, I still have the operators manual that that I wrote for the MOD many moons ago . My god they are loud! I believe they were restricted/banned in the UK for modellers but a slower pulse example is used in the horticultural industry for misting fruit trees. 8)
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Phil Woollard
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Re: The V2 project

Post by Phil Woollard »

A quick update on the Protze conversion, won't get much done today in the workshop as it's the wife's Birthday. :roll:
Attachments
If I can get the dash up to the standard of the Armortek Famo then I will be happy.
If I can get the dash up to the standard of the Armortek Famo then I will be happy.
The 1/1 interior, I have a lot to live up to with this conversion as we are spoilt with the Armortek products!
The 1/1 interior, I have a lot to live up to with this conversion as we are spoilt with the Armortek products!
The spring fix, just need to fix the two together some how.
The spring fix, just need to fix the two together some how.
The larger motor just a tad longer than the other.
The larger motor just a tad longer than the other.
Some detail added to the engine bay
Some detail added to the engine bay
I have added my usual servo link to the steering wheel. The speaker slotted behind the nose
I have added my usual servo link to the steering wheel. The speaker slotted behind the nose
Bless, it even has it's own little oil can.
Bless, it even has it's own little oil can.
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Stephen White
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Re: The V2 project

Post by Stephen White »

Phil, enjoying watching your progress, shows what can be done with skill and imagination. The springs might be easier to make from scratch. It’s a lot easier than I’d anticipated, if you’ve got a lathe. Some ideas here:

http://www.armortek.co.uk/Forum3b/viewt ... b2085c99a6

Stephen

Phil Woollard
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Re: The V2 project

Post by Phil Woollard »

Thank you Stephen, malleable wire used to make modelling springs be it compression or extension is no problem as you have demonstrated, you try a fully functioning 30mm x 3mm x 76mm made from high tensile steel wire, the energy in that thing will take your nails off, I made one using the lathe, it's very satisfying but nothing is as good as a manufactured spring, getting the ends bent and ground is tricky to. 8)
I bought a large to medium spring selection from ebay for about a tenner, there must be 150/200 in the package!
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Phil Woollard
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Re: The V2 project

Post by Phil Woollard »

A very short update on the Protze as i am busy landscaping at home on the range, the weather here in the West Country has been magnificent this week.
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Found some of the correct dash decals
Found some of the correct dash decals
krupp-protze-instruments-placards-and-resin-details-.jpg (12.53 KiB) Viewed 11230 times
The two switches on the dash are for, power on, then the second is to isolate the motor, this does 2 things, allows you to statically run the engine sounds etc without fear of the model running off by itself but also allows the older Armortek speed controller to kick in before being switched on to power the motor, basically allowing the esc twitch to stabilise before the motor in connected (if that makes sense ?)
The two switches on the dash are for, power on, then the second is to isolate the motor, this does 2 things, allows you to statically run the engine sounds etc without fear of the model running off by itself but also allows the older Armortek speed controller to kick in before being switched on to power the motor, basically allowing the esc twitch to stabilise before the motor in connected (if that makes sense ?)
DSC_2241.JPG
The condensed control equipment birds nest, this uses an older but brand new early Armortek 10amp esc, this being plenty large enough for the 3amp motor but nice and compact as space is at a premium, the tbs mini is taken from the sound module and is now naked.<br />&quot;Two 5 amh gell batteries are nice and light (you could go bigger capacity with the same physical size but I'm keeping the weight down. I now need to tidy this lot and store it all it a nice wooden period crate.
The condensed control equipment birds nest, this uses an older but brand new early Armortek 10amp esc, this being plenty large enough for the 3amp motor but nice and compact as space is at a premium, the tbs mini is taken from the sound module and is now naked.
"Two 5 amh gell batteries are nice and light (you could go bigger capacity with the same physical size but I'm keeping the weight down. I now need to tidy this lot and store it all it a nice wooden period crate.
My manufactured spring and all my fingers in place!
My manufactured spring and all my fingers in place!
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Phil Woollard
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Re: The V2 project

Post by Phil Woollard »

Although it doesn't look like much progress that dam opening and folding windscreen has been many hours of work!
Attachments
You will have to use some imagination as the masking tape will stay in place until the top coat is applied.
You will have to use some imagination as the masking tape will stay in place until the top coat is applied.
New thinner profile wind screen pillars and wipers, also bit more engine detail.
New thinner profile wind screen pillars and wipers, also bit more engine detail.
Those spare wheels now have their own axle and can therefor rotate when they come into contact with the ground
Those spare wheels now have their own axle and can therefor rotate when they come into contact with the ground
That steering wheel is actually from the 251 parts bin.
That steering wheel is actually from the 251 parts bin.
The new correct heavy duty spring in place and working well
The new correct heavy duty spring in place and working well
The steering wheel and column now at the correct awkward looking angle with the large diameter claxson ring fixed in place.
The steering wheel and column now at the correct awkward looking angle with the large diameter claxson ring fixed in place.
I can recommend using the angle grinder and a wafer thin cutting disc to accurately cut ply wood timber.
I can recommend using the angle grinder and a wafer thin cutting disc to accurately cut ply wood timber.
The motion systems crate underway
The motion systems crate underway
Last edited by Phil Woollard on Tue Apr 02, 2019 8:21 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Christoffer Ahlfors
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Re: The V2 project

Post by Christoffer Ahlfors »

Five stars for the spring! Very uniform and nice looking. :D
A little too much is about right...

Phil Woollard
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Re: The V2 project

Post by Phil Woollard »

The wood work, God I'm not so keen on wood work, didn't really like it at school either. Jesus (as a carpenter) must have had the patience of a Saint!
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The bed now has a timber plank floor. The cables are pulled through the timber cargo area wall and ready to be threaded into the crate.
The bed now has a timber plank floor. The cables are pulled through the timber cargo area wall and ready to be threaded into the crate.
The crate (not finished) with the batteries and all the control system inside
The crate (not finished) with the batteries and all the control system inside
This photo gives you an idea of the physical size of the container needed to hide the electrics.
This photo gives you an idea of the physical size of the container needed to hide the electrics.
Those timber cross braces are what you stir your coffee with when your out.
Those timber cross braces are what you stir your coffee with when your out.
The crate is basically 150 mm x 150 mm, you could make it slightly smaller but I may need the room to ad other functions.
The crate is basically 150 mm x 150 mm, you could make it slightly smaller but I may need the room to ad other functions.
Indiana Jones style of crate. I do like the canvas rolled half way back like that, this was often adopted by the Axis units.
Indiana Jones style of crate. I do like the canvas rolled half way back like that, this was often adopted by the Axis units.
Another use for the crate. The 37 mm sits nicely on top.
Another use for the crate. The 37 mm sits nicely on top.
The Protze used the 37 mm in this roll, although you wouldn't want to be anywhere nr that pointy end when it fired, how the windscreen ever survived I don't know, even a 1/2&quot; cal machine gun can shatter a vehicles windscreen when fired from the load area over the cab.
The Protze used the 37 mm in this roll, although you wouldn't want to be anywhere nr that pointy end when it fired, how the windscreen ever survived I don't know, even a 1/2" cal machine gun can shatter a vehicles windscreen when fired from the load area over the cab.
DSC_2271.JPG
DSC_2272.JPG
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Phil Woollard
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Re: The V2 project

Post by Phil Woollard »

More wood work this afternoon making the rear bench seats. Also just booked myself in for replacement eye lens surgery, I'm fed up with glasses, I want my teenage eyes back, that way my eye for detail will be that much sharper, worth every penny of 7k!
Attachments
DSC_2275.JPG
Just need to get that last lath in at the front of the seat somehow as the big crate gets in the way.
Just need to get that last lath in at the front of the seat somehow as the big crate gets in the way.
DSC_2274.JPG
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Phil Woollard
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Re: The V2 project

Post by Phil Woollard »

Finished the crew bench seating and started the top coat.
Attachments
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DSC_2280.JPG
DSC_2281.JPG
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DSC_2283.JPG
DSC_2286.JPG
DSC_2287.JPG
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Phil Woollard
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Re: The V2 project

Post by Phil Woollard »

This may may make some glaze over, as the project is going so well I am now upgrading the cast ali parts to machined ali parts, like the steering king pin posts and steering carriers whilst adding brass bushes to the same, all done with out the use of machines, just hand tools and good old fitting. All this may seem a little over the top but it's the difference between a good runner and a very good runner.
I have also removed the Dunlop logo from the tyres.
Attachments
The new billet machined parts, the ackerman angle ( the arm angle) is now more correct.
The new billet machined parts, the ackerman angle ( the arm angle) is now more correct.
The steering hub once fitted. There are a total of three ball race sealed bearing installed, 2 in the hub carrier and the large Armortek bearings in the wheel hub itself, a bit over the top maybe.
The steering hub once fitted. There are a total of three ball race sealed bearing installed, 2 in the hub carrier and the large Armortek bearings in the wheel hub itself, a bit over the top maybe.
The not so strong cast ali hub fine for rock crawlers but we need it to take some weight.
The not so strong cast ali hub fine for rock crawlers but we need it to take some weight.
The axle beam drilled out to 6mm
The axle beam drilled out to 6mm
A 6mm ali king pin post fitted with the brass king pin bush ready to be cut to length, I'm just using a pipe cutting tool on the round sections so no hacksaw or lathe required.
A 6mm ali king pin post fitted with the brass king pin bush ready to be cut to length, I'm just using a pipe cutting tool on the round sections so no hacksaw or lathe required.
A 1.5mm drill bit right through the assembly to take a locking pin to secure the components in place but allowing for removal if the king pin should ever wear out.
A 1.5mm drill bit right through the assembly to take a locking pin to secure the components in place but allowing for removal if the king pin should ever wear out.
All in and fitted with a file until it's a nice tight fit and allowing for a little wearing in.
All in and fitted with a file until it's a nice tight fit and allowing for a little wearing in.
The now super strong steering assembly all ready to go. the ackerman angle is now more correct and the track rod at the rear as it should be.
The now super strong steering assembly all ready to go. the ackerman angle is now more correct and the track rod at the rear as it should be.
Top coat nice and hard with the dust weathering applied to the running gear, the tyre tread won't look right until i have driven the thing for a while, that or i put the wheels on the lathe and spin them up with some emery paper.
Top coat nice and hard with the dust weathering applied to the running gear, the tyre tread won't look right until i have driven the thing for a while, that or i put the wheels on the lathe and spin them up with some emery paper.
I still have a long way to go with the weathering but overall I'm very pleased with the Protze conversion
I still have a long way to go with the weathering but overall I'm very pleased with the Protze conversion
Last edited by Phil Woollard on Wed Apr 10, 2019 4:45 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Liam Mahoney
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Re: The V2 project

Post by Liam Mahoney »

Hi Phil
Looking very nice indeed, and the ackerman looks good now, but what about that shocking scrub radius…? ;)

Thanks
Liam

Phil Woollard
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Re: The V2 project

Post by Phil Woollard »

Hi Liam, that's what the TX is for init? Armortek tyres are so hard it won't really matter 8)
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Phil Woollard
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Re: The V2 project

Post by Phil Woollard »

For those that like the weathering process, well my brand of weathering anyway. 8)
Attachments
Before air pen shading begins.
Before air pen shading begins.
That about as much detail as I'm going to add to the dash area, It's fairly cluttered as it is.
That about as much detail as I'm going to add to the dash area, It's fairly cluttered as it is.
The seating and the crate receive shading to add depth
The seating and the crate receive shading to add depth
Shading and crud to the engine bay.
Shading and crud to the engine bay.
Shading around everything that would cast a shadow on the full size. The first stage lighter chipping on to the fuel can. They get a lot of use so you must reflect that.
Shading around everything that would cast a shadow on the full size. The first stage lighter chipping on to the fuel can. They get a lot of use so you must reflect that.
I need to pick out some of the detail of the dash components
I need to pick out some of the detail of the dash components
Adding lots and lots of shading, dark at the bottom, lighter as you go up.
Adding lots and lots of shading, dark at the bottom, lighter as you go up.
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