Vince's Tiger 1 late variant 2017

[Vince Cutajar]

Finished fitting the 3mm bolts, nuts and locking tabs to the first 8 road wheels.

I was wondering if it is possible to fit fully assembled road wheels to the swing arms without doing any modifications. I have been trawling the build logs to see if anybody described this procedure but no luck yet.

Vince

[David Battson]

Vince
It is entirely possible to fit fully assembled wheel sets onto the swing arms, it just needs to be done all in one go. Fit the outer wheel sets so that they are just on first and then starting at one end add the inner ones, progressively sliding them on as you go.
There have been some very clever builds on here allowing wheels to be assembled/disassembled like the real thing, but in practice there are very few times when you would ever need to remove just a single wheel at a time.
David

[Vince Cutajar]

Thanks David for that info. So it can be done.

Vince

[Vince Cutajar]

Did a minor modification on how the idler tension cover is held. With this modification the head of the hex head bolt is on the outside (visible) like the real thing.

Made some stainless inserts 4mm long for the 3mm hex head bolts.

3mm inserts

Glued them in the existing counterbores.

Inserts loctited in counterbores

And this is how it looks.

Vince

[Robert E Morey]

Vince
I made my wheels so they are fully assembled when going on the swing arms. I think in unmodified original condition they are intended to be assembled as well,

I had to shave a little of the axle diameter - at least on the first issue late Tiger 1. The bearings were way too tight (ultra press fit) onto axles. after shaving them about .008" (0.2mm) they slide on freely.

Hopefully the new late T1 doesn't need this.

Your Tiger is looking great - I need to get back on mine. I stalled after finishing the wheels.
Bob

[Vince Cutajar]

Thanks Robert for that information. I have already checked that the bearings fit on the swing arm axles.

I have been watching the YouTube videos of oddball759mm and noticed that he does not glue the bearings in the road wheels.

Vince

[Vince Cutajar]

Steve Winstone's Bosch Headlight

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=754

Kent gave me this link on another thread and I am saving it here so that I can easily find it again in the future. Thanks Kent.

Vince

[Vince Cutajar]

Finished with the weld seams.

Hope I haven't been over-enthusiastic with the Milliput. Next week I will etch prime, red prime and apply base coat in the area behind the road wheels but first I need to stock up on the paint.

Vince

[Kent Wiik]

Hi Vince,

Glad you liked the Bosch light link, and I must say your welds look ace.

Just one tiny constructive comment if you don't mind....
I always add my welds on an etch primed surface.
IMHO such weld stick much better then on a pure aluminum/brass/steel one.
Just my hard earnd experiece....

Keep up the good work, your Tiger will be awesome and thanks for posting.

Kind regards
Kent

[Vince Cutajar]

Thanks Kent for the tip. I'll keep it in mind for next time. Still learning as I progress.

Vince

[Vince Cutajar]

Went to order some basecoat and got myself another can of etch primer. Don't want to run out of paint during a big job. Was told to come and pick it up this afternoon but that's my siesta time, so will go tomorrow.

Started making some studs from 3mm stainless threaded rod for the front drive case.

Using the band saw and an ER32 square block to cut studs.

I have also been toying with the idea of making a weld at the front and the back of the floor bend. It would also serve as the bottom edge of the zimm.

After sleeping on it, I realised Milliput weld seams in those areas can very easily be damaged or broken off. I think scratched paint or chipped zimm in that area does not look that bad, but broken weld seams would. What do you think guys?

Vince

[Simon Peck]

Hi Vince,

If you are going to drive it, I wouldn’t bother with the weld bead there, at the bottom edge.
I’ve a question however ref a few posts back. Your front mud guards, how did you get the hole for the hinge to line up across each hinge point, as I’d imagine you did in order for the mudguard hinge to work properly? Surely s long drill bit would ‘drift’ too much.....

Cheers,

Simon

[Vince Cutajar]

Thanks Simon for the advice.

Regarding your question; I haven't touched the front mudguard yet. Did I display a photo?

Vince

[Simon Peck]

Sorry Vince, thought it was your thread. My mistake!

[Vince Cutajar]

No problem.
Vince