Gun Problems

Tony Carr · Post by **Tony Carr** » Sat Aug 16, 2008 8:41 pm

Hi Everyone,
This is my first post so be gental with your responses !!!,
I recently purchased a Mid Tiger 1 part built complete with all options including " The Gun " with unfitted upgrade parts, so i decided to fit the upgrade to it. Not an easy task due too poorly meshing gears and binding hammer but with a little machining work on the gears and spacers on the hammer mech. all now runs nice and smooth.
I carried out a test firing and all went well until it came to removing the spent blank, what a difficult job it proved to be, i had put a small amount of grease on the blank as recommended. The blank was a very tight fit when installed.I was also supprised buy how much mess was left behind after.
Can anyone suggest better blanks or lubricants which may help ?

Tony

leesellars · Post by **leesellars** » Sat Aug 16, 2008 9:05 pm

Hello Tony

You have to treat it like a gun keep it well lubricated in oil. I mean drowning in it.The gun will always make a mess.It has been designed as a tight fit. You will get some fowling of parts but that will wipe off when you relaod the magazine.Hope this helps.

lee

Tony Carr · Post by **Tony Carr** » Sat Aug 16, 2008 9:11 pm

Hi Lee,
I had wondered if a PTFE based grease may help ?.
What make and size of blank do you use Lee ?.

Tony.

leesellars · Post by **leesellars** » Sat Aug 16, 2008 9:17 pm

Hello Tony

I dont have a fireing system on my Panther. But ive put alot together. I just use loads of 3 in 1 oil.Get it to run right without blanks in first. you may have to move the spindel to get it to run spot on.I must admit it does take a lot of setting up. Also set it up in a vice and not on a tank as it might break your back asd nowt worse than working in a tight space

Lee

Paul Wills · Post by **Paul Wills** » Sat Aug 16, 2008 9:29 pm

Hi Tony,

Try Super loob, it's a PTFE based grease and works wonders, just smear it on all the surfaces of the magazine, I found it stops the cordite burning on the surface of the magazine, the cartages will still be tight because they mushroom out a bit, the easiest way to remove them is to just push them out from underneath.

One word of warning, load it after you have got it out of your car, I accidentally set mine off whilst unloading it from the back of the car at Leighton Hall the other week

, after the initial shock, it was the centre of most of Richieâ€™s jokes that afternoon plus my car still stinks of cordite!!

Paul

.

Richie Wignall · Post by **Richie Wignall** » Sat Aug 16, 2008 9:40 pm

Hi Tony
I would take Paul's advice on this, as his gun works superb.

I'm still shaking from his sneeky blasts behind me....

don't worry I'll get my own back ha ha ha

Regards
Richie

p.s love the gun goimg of in the car!!!!!!!!!!!

Jeffrey Goff · Post by **Jeffrey Goff** » Sat Aug 16, 2008 11:15 pm

Hi Tony it looks like you stated the build with a bang, I hope all goes well
Regards
Jeff

Allan Richards · Post by **Allan Richards** » Sun Aug 17, 2008 5:08 pm

Tony,

I am surprised that the cartridges are that tight to remove after firing. Certainly on shotguns the cartridges just flick ot after firing. Perhaps the chambers cold do with easing and I am not sure if there are reamers for chambers available from gunsmiths. If these blanks still have black powder in them then the residue after firing is just about the most messy stuff around and needs to be cleaned straight after use. Like Lee says keep it well oiled.

Post by **Armortek** » Mon Aug 18, 2008 8:59 am

Gentlemen

Once again we must remind you of the declaration which all users of this device are required to sign. Do not modify the device. Do not modify the device at all. We understand that suggestions are being made in order to try to help, but we must say again, do not modify the device.

Mark

Roland Wallick · Post by **Roland Wallick** » Tue Aug 19, 2008 2:19 pm

Well why do the shells stick Mark? Ive never seen a weapon where the spent casings did not fall out.You dont oil or grease ammo before it insert it into a cylinder nor do you soak your weapon in oil. Some whould even consider that to be a fire hazard leading to premature detonation of the other rounds.

Post by **Armortek** » Tue Aug 19, 2008 4:35 pm

Roland

I have spoken to Tony directly and answered his specific queries directly. You ask "why do the shells stick"? If you use the recommended shells, they do not stick. This device relies on the fit of the shell in the chamber to provide the back end seal. In all shotgun type weapons this seal is provided by the closure of the gun. Shotguns, can therefore afford to have a more generous chamber clearance. The lubrication we recommend does not constitute a fire hazard. We recommend the lubrication and the type of shells that we do, in order to avoid premature detonation of other shells.

This design was subject to a great deal of testing and development and its official approval for use was given on the basis that it is not modified. If it is modified by the user, you do so entirely at your own quite significant risk.

Mark

Roland Wallick · Post by **Roland Wallick** » Tue Aug 19, 2008 7:07 pm

Thanks Mark.
Speaking of risk, I bought one of these type of gun systems out of the Chezch Republic several years ago, before 11 sept 01 it was a 10 round model smaller caliber, and it came thru the mail with all cylinders locked and loaded. A couple good drops and I would imagine it would have went off. I a little suprised.

Tony Carr · Post by **Tony Carr** » Sat Aug 23, 2008 8:57 pm

Hi Guys,
Thanks for all the responses to my "gun problems" post.
I have been talking to a Black Powder shooting man today about the problems related to black powder use , low and behold they also have problems. The main one being the cleaning after use, he has found nothing better than simple hot soap and water (hotter the better) with a coating of oil to finish off with.

Tony