My Beaut Aussie Cent
-
- Site Admin
- Posts: 3110
- Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2008 7:05 pm
- Location: Dorset
- Has liked: 1024 times
- Been liked: 2093 times
- Contact:
Re: My Beaut Aussie Cent
...and taking twice as long, Derek. Thanks for the kind words.
Thought I'd show the set-up for resistance soldering, which has the great advantage of applying heat very locally, allowing new bits to be added without disassembling the rest:
Detail added to the resilient rail mountings:
I've used a couple of spigots to provide a secure mounting to the engine deck panels.
Added the handles, distressed with a bit of bending:
And then the locking mechanisms:
That's it pretty well finished for the transmission decks, apart from the rails themselves. They were a very hard rubber, and they are not square in section:
I'll probably not use the material provided in the kit but will either form them in resin or Cx5.
Regards
Stephen
Thought I'd show the set-up for resistance soldering, which has the great advantage of applying heat very locally, allowing new bits to be added without disassembling the rest:
Detail added to the resilient rail mountings:
I've used a couple of spigots to provide a secure mounting to the engine deck panels.
Added the handles, distressed with a bit of bending:
And then the locking mechanisms:
That's it pretty well finished for the transmission decks, apart from the rails themselves. They were a very hard rubber, and they are not square in section:
I'll probably not use the material provided in the kit but will either form them in resin or Cx5.
Regards
Stephen
-
- Posts: 312
- Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2012 7:03 pm
- Been liked: 213 times
Re: My Beaut Aussie Cent
Stephen,
Outstanding work on the transmission decks I have been looking forward to seeing how you worked on the detailing of this area.
Regards
David
Outstanding work on the transmission decks I have been looking forward to seeing how you worked on the detailing of this area.
Regards
David
-
- Site Admin
- Posts: 3110
- Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2008 7:05 pm
- Location: Dorset
- Has liked: 1024 times
- Been liked: 2093 times
- Contact:
Re: My Beaut Aussie Cent
Thanks David, now for the engine decks:
(Thanks as ever to Paul Scott for the brilliant reference photos).
First, two easy bits of refinement, squaring off the intake louvre apertures and milling out the top surface on the inside to represent the correct thickness of the top plates:
Like the transmission covers, the engine decks were interlocking to prevent an enemy lifting one to attack the engine with grenades, (a feature put to the test in Korea, where Chinese infantry did get close enough to try).
The deck assemblies were all made to the same pattern but the two intermediate panels were mounted inverted so that the top and bottom surfaces interlocked. I've chosen only to represent the top surfaces but will do the ends nearest the turret to show the correct relationship and correct the large gap between the kit panels:
Firstly, I added material to either side and then machined the top surfaces of the two intermediate panels to reduce the width. Still some way to go but this gives the general idea:
Regards
Stephen
(Thanks as ever to Paul Scott for the brilliant reference photos).
First, two easy bits of refinement, squaring off the intake louvre apertures and milling out the top surface on the inside to represent the correct thickness of the top plates:
Like the transmission covers, the engine decks were interlocking to prevent an enemy lifting one to attack the engine with grenades, (a feature put to the test in Korea, where Chinese infantry did get close enough to try).
The deck assemblies were all made to the same pattern but the two intermediate panels were mounted inverted so that the top and bottom surfaces interlocked. I've chosen only to represent the top surfaces but will do the ends nearest the turret to show the correct relationship and correct the large gap between the kit panels:
Firstly, I added material to either side and then machined the top surfaces of the two intermediate panels to reduce the width. Still some way to go but this gives the general idea:
Regards
Stephen
- Adrian Harris
- Posts: 5062
- Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2007 10:46 pm
- Location: Berkshire (UK)
- Has liked: 1371 times
- Been liked: 1567 times
Re: My Beaut Aussie Cent
Very interesting Stephen.
This may be the dumb question of the week, but what's to stop them lifting the one which is wider at the top - surely there's nothing holding that one down
Adrian.
This may be the dumb question of the week, but what's to stop them lifting the one which is wider at the top - surely there's nothing holding that one down
Adrian.
Contact me at sales@armortekaddict.uk for details of my smoker fan control module
-
- Site Admin
- Posts: 3110
- Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2008 7:05 pm
- Location: Dorset
- Has liked: 1024 times
- Been liked: 2093 times
- Contact:
Re: My Beaut Aussie Cent
Adrian - on the top photo on my post you can see a hole towards the right of the deck. On the diagramme below from the Illustrated Parts Catalogue, you can see it provided access to a captive bolt (numbered 29) which could be used to lock the deck to the cross-beam below. I wouldn't have thought it was ever used, except maybe in Korea.
All the best.
Stephen
All the best.
Stephen
-
- Site Admin
- Posts: 3110
- Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2008 7:05 pm
- Location: Dorset
- Has liked: 1024 times
- Been liked: 2093 times
- Contact:
Re: My Beaut Aussie Cent
The difference in width between the top and bottom of the engine decks is about 30mm. With the inversion of two of the panels, the difference in width becomes obvious looking down on the decks. The second photo below shows this, although the decks are open, so the photo is showing the bottom surfaces.
I had to add two further sections to three of the Armortek deck panels to get the right width for the wider ones. These were machined from aluminium angle stock:
Sometimes a lot of effort can go into a detail which is lost but in this case, the difference in width between the panels is enough to be obvious, so it's probably worth the effort. It also starts to bring the end section nearest the turret to a state which can take some final detailing.
Regards
Stephen
I had to add two further sections to three of the Armortek deck panels to get the right width for the wider ones. These were machined from aluminium angle stock:
Sometimes a lot of effort can go into a detail which is lost but in this case, the difference in width between the panels is enough to be obvious, so it's probably worth the effort. It also starts to bring the end section nearest the turret to a state which can take some final detailing.
Regards
Stephen
-
- Site Admin
- Posts: 3110
- Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2008 7:05 pm
- Location: Dorset
- Has liked: 1024 times
- Been liked: 2093 times
- Contact:
Re: My Beaut Aussie Cent
Pressing on with the engine deck carcasses,profiling the bottom surfaces of the outside and centre panels:
Completed the interlocking side extensions:
Starting the detailing of the end panels:
Regards
Stephen
Completed the interlocking side extensions:
Starting the detailing of the end panels:
Regards
Stephen
-
- Site Admin
- Posts: 3110
- Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2008 7:05 pm
- Location: Dorset
- Has liked: 1024 times
- Been liked: 2093 times
- Contact:
Re: My Beaut Aussie Cent
Completed the first bit of detailing of the engine deck ends:
To make a start on the internal air baffles, first the lateral strengtheners:
The air baffles are very complex, consisting of a central deflector and two side channels (all of which are mirrored underneath to allow the decks to be manufactured as a standard design but allowing two of the panels to be mounted inverted to give the interlocking):
I decided it was a challenge enough to do the upper baffles. Having made some card templates, first set of rough blanks to test:
With 20 of the outer baffles to do, it's a relief to find a repeatable method to get the curvature reliably, using a repousse hammer and a piece of bar:
Several bits later:
First panel complete:
Regards
Stephen
To make a start on the internal air baffles, first the lateral strengtheners:
The air baffles are very complex, consisting of a central deflector and two side channels (all of which are mirrored underneath to allow the decks to be manufactured as a standard design but allowing two of the panels to be mounted inverted to give the interlocking):
I decided it was a challenge enough to do the upper baffles. Having made some card templates, first set of rough blanks to test:
With 20 of the outer baffles to do, it's a relief to find a repeatable method to get the curvature reliably, using a repousse hammer and a piece of bar:
Several bits later:
First panel complete:
Regards
Stephen
-
- Posts: 226
- Joined: Fri May 11, 2012 9:14 pm
- Been liked: 48 times
-
- Posts: 312
- Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2012 7:03 pm
- Been liked: 213 times
Re: My Beaut Aussie Cent
Hi Stephen
Excellent job on the engine deck hatches. I found these parts very difficult to understand the design so decided not to up grade the parts.
I also noted the that you have a proxxon band saw that you rate highly (I also think proxxon tools are one of the best on the market). I was thinking of purchasing one and would like to know what sort of thickness aluminium it will cut?
Regards
David
Excellent job on the engine deck hatches. I found these parts very difficult to understand the design so decided not to up grade the parts.
I also noted the that you have a proxxon band saw that you rate highly (I also think proxxon tools are one of the best on the market). I was thinking of purchasing one and would like to know what sort of thickness aluminium it will cut?
Regards
David
-
- Site Admin
- Posts: 3110
- Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2008 7:05 pm
- Location: Dorset
- Has liked: 1024 times
- Been liked: 2093 times
- Contact:
Re: My Beaut Aussie Cent
Thanks Iacopo and David, very much appreciate your comments. I've been very pleasantly surprised by what the Proxxon Bandsaw can do. I bought the bi-metallic blade and if it's sharp, I found I could easily cut 3mm aluminium sheet. I've cut up to 5mm sheet, albeit with a slow feed and some WD40 lubrication. I've even chopped 1cm alu round bar. After about six months of heavy use, I began to notice the blade wondering off true, a sure sign it had lost its keen edge. I replaced it with the much cheaper 24tpi blade which so far seems to have the same performance, although I guess it might not stay sharp for as long. Brass is also easy to cut. The only maintenance I do is to open the case and clean out the swarf from time to time - the blade guides don't seem to need any adjustment once set up. And it's very portable. Bye,bye hacksaw for most jobs.
Regards
Stephen
Regards
Stephen
-
- Posts: 558
- Joined: Sat Nov 03, 2012 9:10 am
- Location: Guernsey, Channel Islands
- Has liked: 597 times
- Been liked: 142 times
Re: My Beaut Aussie Cent
Hi Stephen, that's another breathtaking installment of your build. I'm sure that many people look forward to your weekly posts as I do.
What you have done with those hatches is brilliant, although I can't quite believe the rear deck locks aren't functional
Regarding the Proxxon band saw I checked it out this weekend at the midlands model engineering show. It seems to be a well put together, compact machine. Definitely one for the Christmas list....
Regards
Kevin
What you have done with those hatches is brilliant, although I can't quite believe the rear deck locks aren't functional
Regarding the Proxxon band saw I checked it out this weekend at the midlands model engineering show. It seems to be a well put together, compact machine. Definitely one for the Christmas list....
Regards
Kevin
-
- Posts: 312
- Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2012 7:03 pm
- Been liked: 213 times
-
- Site Admin
- Posts: 3110
- Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2008 7:05 pm
- Location: Dorset
- Has liked: 1024 times
- Been liked: 2093 times
- Contact:
Re: My Beaut Aussie Cent
Thanks Kevin. I've done a couple more panels before heading for my second home at Heathrow. This update will focus on a recent discovery by my good friends and owner/advisors, Paul Scott and Mike Cecil. This relates to the resilient rails (aka gun depression rails). All I knew was that they were modified when the Type B 20 pdr barrels were introduced with the fume extractor. Paul pointed out that the front sections are mounted on seven studs or mounting blocks welded to the hull and have a wooden spacer which raises the rail. It can clearly be seen on the Bovington Mk 3:
and on this Mk 3:u
Here is the challenge. The tank I'm replicating, ARN 169064, seemed to have eight mounting studs:
Confirmed in this enlargement:
After researching a selection of photos, MIke and Paul were able to see a pattern emerging, with seven studs being associated with earlier ARNs:
and eight studs with later ARNs:
The tentative conclusion was that Mk 3 hulls were built with seven studs and those hulls built from scratch as Mk 5 or later having eight studs. Hulls re-worked from Mk 3 to Mk 5 did not appear to have the number of studs changed. Threre were however a few anomalies which seemed to throw the theory until Mike noted that in 1971 Australia purchased replacement Cents from UK stocks held in Hong Kong (where I am now) and in 1969 from New Zealand. These were given late series ARNs yet some of them have seven studs. This is explained as Mike noted by some of these tanks having been built as Mk 3s. In at least one case, a mine damaged Australian Mk 5/1 hull was replaced by a NZ Mk 3 hull.
So what? Well, firstly, a great amount of sastifaction uncovering for the record a detail of Centurion lost to history, some corroboration for another detail on the model and lastly, something about "getting it right" for those who built and operated the Cent. All that and building an international community of people with similar interests. That's why I find Armortek tank building so absorbing.
Regards
Stephen
and on this Mk 3:u
Here is the challenge. The tank I'm replicating, ARN 169064, seemed to have eight mounting studs:
Confirmed in this enlargement:
After researching a selection of photos, MIke and Paul were able to see a pattern emerging, with seven studs being associated with earlier ARNs:
and eight studs with later ARNs:
The tentative conclusion was that Mk 3 hulls were built with seven studs and those hulls built from scratch as Mk 5 or later having eight studs. Hulls re-worked from Mk 3 to Mk 5 did not appear to have the number of studs changed. Threre were however a few anomalies which seemed to throw the theory until Mike noted that in 1971 Australia purchased replacement Cents from UK stocks held in Hong Kong (where I am now) and in 1969 from New Zealand. These were given late series ARNs yet some of them have seven studs. This is explained as Mike noted by some of these tanks having been built as Mk 3s. In at least one case, a mine damaged Australian Mk 5/1 hull was replaced by a NZ Mk 3 hull.
So what? Well, firstly, a great amount of sastifaction uncovering for the record a detail of Centurion lost to history, some corroboration for another detail on the model and lastly, something about "getting it right" for those who built and operated the Cent. All that and building an international community of people with similar interests. That's why I find Armortek tank building so absorbing.
Regards
Stephen
Last edited by Stephen White on Thu Oct 30, 2014 12:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
-
- Posts: 312
- Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2012 7:03 pm
- Been liked: 213 times
Re: My Beaut Aussie Cent
Hi Stephen
Great detective work on the studs on the gun depression rail, I had noticed that some had 7 or 8 studs but had know idea why some had the extra stud. Sometimes the more photo's I see on the centurion more confused I get as what is relevant to each MK of the tank.
Thanks for sharing all this information it is all a learning curve.
Regards
David
Great detective work on the studs on the gun depression rail, I had noticed that some had 7 or 8 studs but had know idea why some had the extra stud. Sometimes the more photo's I see on the centurion more confused I get as what is relevant to each MK of the tank.
Thanks for sharing all this information it is all a learning curve.
Regards
David