Let me begin by stating I’m not well versed in electronics. I purchased a Futaba 8 channel, 2.4 GHz radio for my Late Tiger 1. Bench testing progressed trouble free until problems arose with the turret turn and gun elevation motors. The motor shafts would turn normally in one direction only. The opposite direction produced a slow, jerky rotation. Testing was done on the Aux Module and sub loom for shorts or faults and none were found. The Aux Module was replaced, but, the problem persisted. Testing the radio by plugging a servo into the various receiver channels confirmed no problem with the radio.
Finally, it was suggested that there might be a compatibility issue with my radio and the Armortek electronic package. My radio allows 7 channel operation as an option. This election can be made in the Linkage Menu under Frequency. When a 7 channel receiver was linked, all problems were corrected! It appears that Futaba uses a different frequency scheme for radios with 8 or more channels, resulting in compatibility issues with Armortek. The only unresolved problem is not enough channels for Steve’s LED MG and gun traverse.
Can two 7 channel receivers be used with an 8,10 or14 channel Futaba radio for those builders needing more channels? Wish I knew the answer.
Kirk
Futaba / Armortek compatibility problems
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Futaba 8
Hi Kirk
I have used 2 receivers on my Futaba 7C successfully after Robin
told me how he did it.
I think with the Futaba 8 you might have to experiment first,if you
know someoen with a spare receiver to borrow.
For the MG Traverse on my Comet I used the VR Knob on the
Futaba 7C with channel 6.
In Acro mode it is for Flap-Trim,but if the Flap-Trim is inhibited
INH in the radio,it defaults to the VR Knob and you can set the
end points for your servo and the traverse speed is variable and
more realistic.
From pictures of the Futaba 8 I have seen there is a knob at the top
which is worth checking out and the manual to see if that knob is
the same.
Obviosly the MG will flash when you operate the sound.
Hope that helps a bit
Cheers
Phil
I have used 2 receivers on my Futaba 7C successfully after Robin
told me how he did it.
I think with the Futaba 8 you might have to experiment first,if you
know someoen with a spare receiver to borrow.
For the MG Traverse on my Comet I used the VR Knob on the
Futaba 7C with channel 6.
In Acro mode it is for Flap-Trim,but if the Flap-Trim is inhibited
INH in the radio,it defaults to the VR Knob and you can set the
end points for your servo and the traverse speed is variable and
more realistic.
From pictures of the Futaba 8 I have seen there is a knob at the top
which is worth checking out and the manual to see if that knob is
the same.
Obviosly the MG will flash when you operate the sound.
Hope that helps a bit
Cheers
Phil
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- Location: Texas, USA
Hi Kirk,
I went through the same situation when I tried to upgrade from the Futaba 7C to the 14C using the R6014FS receiver. The 7C worked perfectly while the 14C had the same issue you are encountering.
I'm referring to my experience with the R6014FS -- Futaba had to lower the signal voltage from 3V to 2.7V due to excessive power/heat issues. Consequently, the newer Armortek electronics (turret motors) won't work properly with the receiver (KT in my case). I tried some work-arounds, but finally gave up. I also tried unsuccessfully to bind the 14C transmitter with the 7-channel R617FS receiver, so using two R617FS receivers didn't work either.
The good news is that I recently purchased a JR DSM 12X TX that works perfectly with the JR 12-channel R1221X receiver. I couldn't be happier with the decision to change radios . It also has the ability to program different travel rates in each direction -- I'm planning to use that for the gun recoil (fast) and return to battery (really slow) using one of their 6V servos.
Here is the top-line JR TX/RX, but they also make a more economical version that is practically the same for about 1/2 the cost.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/De ... D=JRP1200X
Mark
I went through the same situation when I tried to upgrade from the Futaba 7C to the 14C using the R6014FS receiver. The 7C worked perfectly while the 14C had the same issue you are encountering.
I'm referring to my experience with the R6014FS -- Futaba had to lower the signal voltage from 3V to 2.7V due to excessive power/heat issues. Consequently, the newer Armortek electronics (turret motors) won't work properly with the receiver (KT in my case). I tried some work-arounds, but finally gave up. I also tried unsuccessfully to bind the 14C transmitter with the 7-channel R617FS receiver, so using two R617FS receivers didn't work either.
The good news is that I recently purchased a JR DSM 12X TX that works perfectly with the JR 12-channel R1221X receiver. I couldn't be happier with the decision to change radios . It also has the ability to program different travel rates in each direction -- I'm planning to use that for the gun recoil (fast) and return to battery (really slow) using one of their 6V servos.
Here is the top-line JR TX/RX, but they also make a more economical version that is practically the same for about 1/2 the cost.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/De ... D=JRP1200X
Mark
- John Clarke
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Futaba 2.4 ghz systems.
Hi
If you are using single sticktrack control (Ch1&2 unaffected) have you considered bypassing the Armortek traverse and elevation control (Ch 3&4) using suitable protected Electronize 24v speed controllers on the two channels giving you trouble, these will be unaffected by Futaba's reduced channel output, allowing you to keep using the futaba system.
I found out the hard way too.
Hope this helps. John Futaba 10C owner
If you are using single sticktrack control (Ch1&2 unaffected) have you considered bypassing the Armortek traverse and elevation control (Ch 3&4) using suitable protected Electronize 24v speed controllers on the two channels giving you trouble, these will be unaffected by Futaba's reduced channel output, allowing you to keep using the futaba system.
I found out the hard way too.
Hope this helps. John Futaba 10C owner
Oh Man, I only ride em I don't know what makes them work,
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Definatley an Anti-Social type
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- John Clarke
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Hi Kirk
Electronize does exist. but I'm sure there are simular supplier's state side.
sales@electronize.co.uk is their email address or check out their web site for speed controller details.
I take it you are using relatively new Armortek 24volt control gear.
The excellent 24volt turret traverse and gun elevation motors used by Armortek draw little current so a 5amp blade type fuse and holder (used in cars) should provide protection for the motor and speed controller. If your unsure of the level of protection check inside the power supply module supplied with the motion pack, you should be able see what rated fuse armortek use for their protection.
Bypass is easy, Get two suitable 24 volt speed controllers, Electronize supply serveral types up to 30amp continous output. (some have adjustable onboard speed control to simulate slow ramp up and down rates) mount in a suitable position inside the tank. Supply with 24 volts Be warned Electronize, like most speed controllers reverse connection will be terminal for the speed controller.
Connect the outputs from the new speed controllers to traverse and elevation motors and use receiver outputs 3&4 normally going to the Auxillary supply module to the new speed controllers and away you go.
I should say don't try to control the armortek motors with any thing less than 24 volts as the effecency of the the motor will be serverly reduced.
Hope this helps John
Electronize does exist. but I'm sure there are simular supplier's state side.
sales@electronize.co.uk is their email address or check out their web site for speed controller details.
I take it you are using relatively new Armortek 24volt control gear.
The excellent 24volt turret traverse and gun elevation motors used by Armortek draw little current so a 5amp blade type fuse and holder (used in cars) should provide protection for the motor and speed controller. If your unsure of the level of protection check inside the power supply module supplied with the motion pack, you should be able see what rated fuse armortek use for their protection.
Bypass is easy, Get two suitable 24 volt speed controllers, Electronize supply serveral types up to 30amp continous output. (some have adjustable onboard speed control to simulate slow ramp up and down rates) mount in a suitable position inside the tank. Supply with 24 volts Be warned Electronize, like most speed controllers reverse connection will be terminal for the speed controller.
Connect the outputs from the new speed controllers to traverse and elevation motors and use receiver outputs 3&4 normally going to the Auxillary supply module to the new speed controllers and away you go.
I should say don't try to control the armortek motors with any thing less than 24 volts as the effecency of the the motor will be serverly reduced.
Hope this helps John
Oh Man, I only ride em I don't know what makes them work,
Definatley an Anti-Social type
Definatley an Anti-Social type