Comet
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- Posts: 377
- Joined: Sat Apr 03, 2010 3:23 pm
- Location: Welshpool, Powys
Hello Phil, thanks for your advice....I think for me, the whole weight of these tanks is just a little bit daunting....so I wanted to feel confident before a test run.
I would like to keep the Comet on the dinning table for the time being, so I can add my final bits and pieces. My son will be here at the weekend to give me a hand and then I will use my table lift.
I have now posted three show forms, I am hoping to display the Comet at Onslow Park, Shrewsbury, August Bank Holiday.
I want to 'detail' the tank in the Autumn/Winter this year. I am very pleased with the way it has turned out....in fact I am, as a beginner, quite proud. Thanks to all the help I have received.
Keep in touch Phil, I will let you know how things go at the 'shows'.....best wishes Mick.
I would like to keep the Comet on the dinning table for the time being, so I can add my final bits and pieces. My son will be here at the weekend to give me a hand and then I will use my table lift.
I have now posted three show forms, I am hoping to display the Comet at Onslow Park, Shrewsbury, August Bank Holiday.
I want to 'detail' the tank in the Autumn/Winter this year. I am very pleased with the way it has turned out....in fact I am, as a beginner, quite proud. Thanks to all the help I have received.
Keep in touch Phil, I will let you know how things go at the 'shows'.....best wishes Mick.
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- Posts: 377
- Joined: Sat Apr 03, 2010 3:23 pm
- Location: Welshpool, Powys
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Hi Mick,
You shouldn't need to take out any links yet. You should be able to adjust the track nice and tight with the recommended no of links. After you have run the tank for quite a while the track will bed in and stretch a bit and then you may be able to slacken off the adjustment and remove a link. I have run mine now for about 4 hours and track is still quite tight.
Dennis.
You shouldn't need to take out any links yet. You should be able to adjust the track nice and tight with the recommended no of links. After you have run the tank for quite a while the track will bed in and stretch a bit and then you may be able to slacken off the adjustment and remove a link. I have run mine now for about 4 hours and track is still quite tight.
Dennis.
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- Joined: Sat Apr 03, 2010 3:23 pm
- Location: Welshpool, Powys
Well, I have now run the 'tracks' with the tank on the motorcycle lift.....all is well.
Dennis I have the same distance between the first two wheels as your Comet, when the full weight is on the suspension
All things being equal Saturday morning should see the Comet on the ground, where she belongs. I will take a photo.
Dennis I have the same distance between the first two wheels as your Comet, when the full weight is on the suspension
All things being equal Saturday morning should see the Comet on the ground, where she belongs. I will take a photo.
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- Posts: 377
- Joined: Sat Apr 03, 2010 3:23 pm
- Location: Welshpool, Powys
At last....the Comet reaches the ground. I was surprised at the ease by which the tank moves, and turns on the spot. There is loads of power with precise and accurate positioning....fantastic.
She is back on my table lift using the motorcycle ramps. I have received permission for the Comet to remain in the dinning room pending warmer weather.
All is well, and the Gods have watched over the proceedings and smiled down on our efforts. I am a giant step nearer to the outside world...and so on....Mick
She is back on my table lift using the motorcycle ramps. I have received permission for the Comet to remain in the dinning room pending warmer weather.
All is well, and the Gods have watched over the proceedings and smiled down on our efforts. I am a giant step nearer to the outside world...and so on....Mick
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- Location: Sambourne uk
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- Posts: 892
- Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2009 11:19 am
- Location: Poole, Dorset
- Has liked: 10 times
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- Posts: 377
- Joined: Sat Apr 03, 2010 3:23 pm
- Location: Welshpool, Powys
No way Dennis....this little baby is staying in the warm and dry. Maybe in a year or two...then and only then, will she venture outside....well perhaps not that long.
Phil, me old mate, although the weekend went well, and my Comet is safely on the table lift, I did have one squeaky bum moment.
The Futaba 7C has the ratchet on the left hand stick. Because of this setup I almost drove the tank off the table as I was halfway across the table lift, because I could not centralise the ratchet stick quickly enough.
So, I would like to remove the 'ratchet' on the left hand stick, and have both sticks centralise with no drive to either motor, when both sticks are at the 'middle' position. hope that makes sense. I have used the 'search facility and FAQ, however I am still unsure of the proceedure.
I am prepared to give it a go...but a little advice will help.....mick
Phil, me old mate, although the weekend went well, and my Comet is safely on the table lift, I did have one squeaky bum moment.
The Futaba 7C has the ratchet on the left hand stick. Because of this setup I almost drove the tank off the table as I was halfway across the table lift, because I could not centralise the ratchet stick quickly enough.
So, I would like to remove the 'ratchet' on the left hand stick, and have both sticks centralise with no drive to either motor, when both sticks are at the 'middle' position. hope that makes sense. I have used the 'search facility and FAQ, however I am still unsure of the proceedure.
I am prepared to give it a go...but a little advice will help.....mick
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Futaba
Whatch out for the Dumb thumbs Mick,they do things that the brain
doesnt want em to
If you check out the postings on your page 13 you will see some
on this subject.
Its easy to take the ratchet out but Dennis said he could make you
a little plastic centering peice that you need,same as he made
for himself,instead of getting one from Futaba.
There should have been a singlr sheet Transmitter mode
changing instructions with your radio manual,that will show you what to expect inside the radio.
But if you contact Dennis I am sure he will be able to guide you,
he was asking if you wanted one of those parts earlier in the
year.
Cheers
Phil
doesnt want em to
If you check out the postings on your page 13 you will see some
on this subject.
Its easy to take the ratchet out but Dennis said he could make you
a little plastic centering peice that you need,same as he made
for himself,instead of getting one from Futaba.
There should have been a singlr sheet Transmitter mode
changing instructions with your radio manual,that will show you what to expect inside the radio.
But if you contact Dennis I am sure he will be able to guide you,
he was asking if you wanted one of those parts earlier in the
year.
Cheers
Phil
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- Posts: 547
- Joined: Fri Aug 28, 2009 10:08 pm
- Location: South Wales Glamorgan
ratchet left hand stick
hi mick
had the same problem with mine almost had an accident with the pz 111. what i did as a quick fix was this,my left hand stick operates the forward and backwards of the left hand track,on the same stick moving it left to right moves the barrel up or down. so take the back of the radio set look at the left stick and their should be a piece of flat spring steel screwed down on the ratchet un screw this and remove the flat spring.so now you should have a FLOPPY STICK this is very embarasing. so if you look at the same stick but the left and right that moves the barrel up or down you will see a sring held in with another screw you should be able to swap that over to the forward and back of the main track that had the ratchet on .you will be left with a floppy barrel stick,but as this just operates the barrel up and down its mutch safer for the time being untill you can get the part to put back on the barrel elevation .this is what i did for mine if the barrel moves it will stop on its own due to the micro swithes .you can get a replacement from most model shops or on the net you will just need your model of your hand set .this is only a quick fix to make it safe you carnt stop these tanks if the tracks get a grip,i was lucky and had wood flooring so the tracks just kept skidding over the floor.i would do this as soon as you can for piece of mind and your own safty mick ,plus when you come to fit the new part you will know what to do . hope this makes sense toyou mick
good luck
best wishes
nick
had the same problem with mine almost had an accident with the pz 111. what i did as a quick fix was this,my left hand stick operates the forward and backwards of the left hand track,on the same stick moving it left to right moves the barrel up or down. so take the back of the radio set look at the left stick and their should be a piece of flat spring steel screwed down on the ratchet un screw this and remove the flat spring.so now you should have a FLOPPY STICK this is very embarasing. so if you look at the same stick but the left and right that moves the barrel up or down you will see a sring held in with another screw you should be able to swap that over to the forward and back of the main track that had the ratchet on .you will be left with a floppy barrel stick,but as this just operates the barrel up and down its mutch safer for the time being untill you can get the part to put back on the barrel elevation .this is what i did for mine if the barrel moves it will stop on its own due to the micro swithes .you can get a replacement from most model shops or on the net you will just need your model of your hand set .this is only a quick fix to make it safe you carnt stop these tanks if the tracks get a grip,i was lucky and had wood flooring so the tracks just kept skidding over the floor.i would do this as soon as you can for piece of mind and your own safty mick ,plus when you come to fit the new part you will know what to do . hope this makes sense toyou mick
good luck
best wishes
nick
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- Posts: 377
- Joined: Sat Apr 03, 2010 3:23 pm
- Location: Welshpool, Powys
Hello Phil, Hello Nick, it's all coming back to me now..I do remember Dennis's advice...wish I had thought about it earlier.
This is what happened over the weekend. As I moved the tank slowly forward towards the table lift...the tank was very slightly off line....so I released the right hand and the left hand stick, expecting the tank to stop.
However, and consequently, because of the ratchet on the left hand stick, the tank continued to move forward, towards the side of the table.
At this point my mind went 'blank', Andrew, my son, quick as a flash disconnected the power lead, which I had fortunately relocated to the rear of the tank.
The tank immediately stopped moving, if my son had not reacted quickly, the end result does not bear thinking about.....I needed a cup of tea after that.
All's well that ends well.
So,I decided to apply the 'failsafe' method, and have both sticks react the same.....central stick is all stop....forward both sticks/reverse both sticks..... my motto is now...'keep it simple, stupid'
I have located the Futaba change instructions.....thanks again for replies, Phil and Nick.....
This is what happened over the weekend. As I moved the tank slowly forward towards the table lift...the tank was very slightly off line....so I released the right hand and the left hand stick, expecting the tank to stop.
However, and consequently, because of the ratchet on the left hand stick, the tank continued to move forward, towards the side of the table.
At this point my mind went 'blank', Andrew, my son, quick as a flash disconnected the power lead, which I had fortunately relocated to the rear of the tank.
The tank immediately stopped moving, if my son had not reacted quickly, the end result does not bear thinking about.....I needed a cup of tea after that.
All's well that ends well.
So,I decided to apply the 'failsafe' method, and have both sticks react the same.....central stick is all stop....forward both sticks/reverse both sticks..... my motto is now...'keep it simple, stupid'
I have located the Futaba change instructions.....thanks again for replies, Phil and Nick.....
Tank Control
Mick,
Congratulations on a fine model, I am sure we all have stories of those first movements off the construction table.
In my case I ran the Comet from table to ground on a old door covered in carpet (for the grip), unfortunately I did not secure the carpet to the door and once the tank hit the incline slope it sailed serenely to the ground totally out of control. My instinct was to put my foot against the door to stop that sliding, a split second later – 80 odd kilos of tank was on my foot. Fortunately no damage to either the tank or my toes (but it was painful).
Talking of controlling the tracks, have you considered using one stick for propulsion and the other for turret rotation and barrel elevation? It makes overall control very simple and with the benefit you can simultaneously drive and move the gun easily.
The Futaba instructions for the 7 channel system are given on page 44, ‘ELEVON’. It is a bit daunting the first couple of times you read it but even to someone like me who has almost never handled a radio control before the penny soon begins to drop.
This is the arrangement that Mark has set up on his prototype and it works well.
If you do accept the challenge you will also need to change some of the connections from the receiver to the Speed Control and Auxiliary Modules.
Armortek – Electronic Modules Assemble Instructions, page 16.
Channel 1 becomes the right hand track (originally Ch 2),
Channel 2 becomes the left hand track (originally Ch 3),
Channel 3 becomes gun elevation (originally Ch 4),
Channel 4 becomes turret rotation (originally Ch 1).
You also need to check the direction of all the motors, ie when the right hand stick is pushed forward the tank goes forward, etc. I needed to swap the connections to a couple motors. Total adjustment time less than 5 mins given access!
Regards
Paul
Congratulations on a fine model, I am sure we all have stories of those first movements off the construction table.
In my case I ran the Comet from table to ground on a old door covered in carpet (for the grip), unfortunately I did not secure the carpet to the door and once the tank hit the incline slope it sailed serenely to the ground totally out of control. My instinct was to put my foot against the door to stop that sliding, a split second later – 80 odd kilos of tank was on my foot. Fortunately no damage to either the tank or my toes (but it was painful).
Talking of controlling the tracks, have you considered using one stick for propulsion and the other for turret rotation and barrel elevation? It makes overall control very simple and with the benefit you can simultaneously drive and move the gun easily.
The Futaba instructions for the 7 channel system are given on page 44, ‘ELEVON’. It is a bit daunting the first couple of times you read it but even to someone like me who has almost never handled a radio control before the penny soon begins to drop.
This is the arrangement that Mark has set up on his prototype and it works well.
If you do accept the challenge you will also need to change some of the connections from the receiver to the Speed Control and Auxiliary Modules.
Armortek – Electronic Modules Assemble Instructions, page 16.
Channel 1 becomes the right hand track (originally Ch 2),
Channel 2 becomes the left hand track (originally Ch 3),
Channel 3 becomes gun elevation (originally Ch 4),
Channel 4 becomes turret rotation (originally Ch 1).
You also need to check the direction of all the motors, ie when the right hand stick is pushed forward the tank goes forward, etc. I needed to swap the connections to a couple motors. Total adjustment time less than 5 mins given access!
Regards
Paul
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Mick,
I agree with Paul I think you would find single stick easier to use and it means that turret and gun are on one stick and control of the tracks on the other. I have always used this system and have even converted one our lads who used to drive twin sticks as he used to drive bulldozers for a living.
Dennis.
I agree with Paul I think you would find single stick easier to use and it means that turret and gun are on one stick and control of the tracks on the other. I have always used this system and have even converted one our lads who used to drive twin sticks as he used to drive bulldozers for a living.
Dennis.
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- Location: Welshpool, Powys
Hello Paul and hello Dennis, I can see where you are coming from with this setup...and I do remember seeing this form of control system on earlier posts. However, I really do need to think this through before going ahead.
It's not that I would find these changes difficult to make.....control of tracks all on one stick....it's because the reason I settled for ratchet on the left stick and return to center on the right hand stick, was to leave my left hand free to operate the 'sounds'.
After my experience at the weekend I must change something. My old mind and reactions are much to slow. So, I will consider all options and then it's make my mind up time.
Thank you all, for your advice, it is appreciated.
These tanks certainly keep you on your toes, 'no pun intended'. When my son and I had the Comet finally settled on the table lift....we stood back and just took in the size of the tank.....she looked amazing.
I can well understand the enthusiasm you guys have for your tank builds and Armortek.
Thanks again lads, I will post again when I have reached a decision.....Mick
It's not that I would find these changes difficult to make.....control of tracks all on one stick....it's because the reason I settled for ratchet on the left stick and return to center on the right hand stick, was to leave my left hand free to operate the 'sounds'.
After my experience at the weekend I must change something. My old mind and reactions are much to slow. So, I will consider all options and then it's make my mind up time.
Thank you all, for your advice, it is appreciated.
These tanks certainly keep you on your toes, 'no pun intended'. When my son and I had the Comet finally settled on the table lift....we stood back and just took in the size of the tank.....she looked amazing.
I can well understand the enthusiasm you guys have for your tank builds and Armortek.
Thanks again lads, I will post again when I have reached a decision.....Mick