Mark's Sd.Kfz.182 King Tiger Build
- Adrian Harris
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Hi Adrian,
I'm just a novice learning how to use this milling machine -- but I'm having fun in the process
I've used the mill much more than I had expected and also use it instead of my drill press and belt sander. If you do decide to invest in one, I think you will be very happy with it.
Regards,
Mark
I'm just a novice learning how to use this milling machine -- but I'm having fun in the process
I've used the mill much more than I had expected and also use it instead of my drill press and belt sander. If you do decide to invest in one, I think you will be very happy with it.
Regards,
Mark
- Robert E Morey
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Hello All,
I decided it was time to get back to work on the hull, so here are a few photos of my weekend progress.
Counter-bored the final drive bolt holes so they fit flush with the hull side per the actual vehicle.
Milled the final drive armor guards to that they are recessed from the hull side. Next, applied the welds using milliput. Hopefully, I’ll get better at doing the welds since it seems to take me a long time to finish them.
All of the bottom hull screw holes were counter-sinked and the cap screws replaced with new countersink screws.
Drilled and tapped holes to add stainless steel grease zerks for the torsion bars.
Regards,
Mark
I decided it was time to get back to work on the hull, so here are a few photos of my weekend progress.
Counter-bored the final drive bolt holes so they fit flush with the hull side per the actual vehicle.
Milled the final drive armor guards to that they are recessed from the hull side. Next, applied the welds using milliput. Hopefully, I’ll get better at doing the welds since it seems to take me a long time to finish them.
All of the bottom hull screw holes were counter-sinked and the cap screws replaced with new countersink screws.
Drilled and tapped holes to add stainless steel grease zerks for the torsion bars.
Regards,
Mark
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- Adrian Harris
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Hi Mark
Love your welds, very nice indeed , I have noticed that you have fitted grease nipples. I did this also on my KT build at the very start. You will need to alter some of these, especially under the motors to 90 degrees nipples, as you can't get in with the grease gun when the motors are fitted.
The picture below shows 90 degree nipples fitted under the motors. Hope this helps.
Richie
Love your welds, very nice indeed , I have noticed that you have fitted grease nipples. I did this also on my KT build at the very start. You will need to alter some of these, especially under the motors to 90 degrees nipples, as you can't get in with the grease gun when the motors are fitted.
The picture below shows 90 degree nipples fitted under the motors. Hope this helps.
Richie
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Hi all,
Thanks for all the kind words.
Adrian, I did make a simple tool. I cut a brass tube lengthwise as described in the following article:
http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op= ... 220&page=2
Making 90-degree fillet welds on the inside of the armor guard was a snap; however, the front welds were a challenge since the direction kept changing.
Again, thanks for the encouragement.
Regards,
Mark
Thanks for all the kind words.
Adrian, I did make a simple tool. I cut a brass tube lengthwise as described in the following article:
http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op= ... 220&page=2
Making 90-degree fillet welds on the inside of the armor guard was a snap; however, the front welds were a challenge since the direction kept changing.
Again, thanks for the encouragement.
Regards,
Mark
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Hi Richie,
Thanks for the info about the 90-degree nipples -- it looks like it will be a tight fit. I'll definitely have to order some 90-degree zerks.
I can't resist the urge to customize my tank, but I'm sure when I get the motion packs I'll find that I'll have to rework some of my planned "mods".
Regards,
Mark
Thanks for the info about the 90-degree nipples -- it looks like it will be a tight fit. I'll definitely have to order some 90-degree zerks.
I can't resist the urge to customize my tank, but I'm sure when I get the motion packs I'll find that I'll have to rework some of my planned "mods".
Regards,
Mark
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I've been wanting to update the build for quite some time, but never seemed to get around to it. Unfortunately, I can't find the photos that I took earlier, so I'll have to just show the wheel pics that that I've been working on this week.
I got one of Steve Winstone's wheel hub templates to correct the bolt pattern as several others have posted earlier. Three of the holes are offsets of existing holes, so it has been a challenge to drill the offsets. I started by milling the new holes slightly oversized on the wheels and hubs.
[/img]
Next, I used alot of JB weld to fill in the old and new holes and then drilled the new holes to the correct pattern.
Here's the wheel hub covers with the new bolt pattern -- note the JB weld in grey.
I got one of Steve Winstone's wheel hub templates to correct the bolt pattern as several others have posted earlier. Three of the holes are offsets of existing holes, so it has been a challenge to drill the offsets. I started by milling the new holes slightly oversized on the wheels and hubs.
[/img]
Next, I used alot of JB weld to fill in the old and new holes and then drilled the new holes to the correct pattern.
Here's the wheel hub covers with the new bolt pattern -- note the JB weld in grey.
Last edited by Mark Bennett on Thu Jan 20, 2011 4:16 am, edited 1 time in total.
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I decided it was time to post a couple of more pics, so here's an update on my build.
I milled the extra bolt length off of all the wheels. They do look much better after being cut down.
The next photo is the modified wheel hubs with the correct 5-bolt pattern and the slots cut to represent the three parts on the actual vehicle. The idler and sprocket hubs have had putty applied to simulate the casting effect.
I used the mill to cut the slots in the axles to ensure that the cuts were perfectly flat. I also made a jig to set the angle to 36 degrees for all the axles.
The completed axles are shown in the lower hull. I also made a modification to the two rear armor plates so that I can weld them in place instead of being attached to the upper rear hull plating.
I made a new rear plate so that I can quickly remove the entire rear hull deck without using any screws. Here I'm doing the initial cutting to size.
Here is my new removable rear hull deck plate after cutting all the holes for bolts and vents. One of the two new armor plates is visible in the lower right. They are secured with two #0 countersunk screws.
I milled the extra bolt length off of all the wheels. They do look much better after being cut down.
The next photo is the modified wheel hubs with the correct 5-bolt pattern and the slots cut to represent the three parts on the actual vehicle. The idler and sprocket hubs have had putty applied to simulate the casting effect.
I used the mill to cut the slots in the axles to ensure that the cuts were perfectly flat. I also made a jig to set the angle to 36 degrees for all the axles.
The completed axles are shown in the lower hull. I also made a modification to the two rear armor plates so that I can weld them in place instead of being attached to the upper rear hull plating.
I made a new rear plate so that I can quickly remove the entire rear hull deck without using any screws. Here I'm doing the initial cutting to size.
Here is my new removable rear hull deck plate after cutting all the holes for bolts and vents. One of the two new armor plates is visible in the lower right. They are secured with two #0 countersunk screws.
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