Loctite

[David Da Costa]

Are you using Loctite on the threads of nuts and bolts when assembling and if so red or blue?

Thanks

David

[Jim Fowler]

David,

Loctite is/can be used; but, understanding when and where is what you need coaching on....

First, there is a big difference in "blue" and "red" Loctite:
Blue is used for standard fastener retension.
Red is used for "High-Strength" fastener retension (think of it as putting together a fastener you NEVER want to come loose)

For initial and rough assembly - don't use any.

For fasteners and assemblies you may have to remove for service - use the blue.

For fasteners and assemblies you want to stay together and will virtually never be serviced - or prone to VERY high wear or vibration - use the red (always think twice before going red - just something I say to myself to help me govern its use).

Hope this helps,

[Robert E Morey]

David,
In addition to Jim's excellent summary on the red and blue threadlocker, there is are a couple more Loctite's that are handy.

603 Bearing retainer. Green in color, is a semi-permanent mounting for bushings and bearings. Component can be removed by heating the 603 after cure.

380 Black max. Rubber toughened semi flexible reinforced cyano (super glue). Good for bonding leather and rubber (tires, seats, etc) to metal.

Bob

[Jim Slothower]

Thanks Guys, you just made me smarter

[David Da Costa]

Thanks Jim,

I certainly understand the difference between red and blue loctite as I have to use both on my large scale RC helicopters (including my Jet turbine powered one). I was just wondering what people were actually doing on there tanks, ie using blue in most places except for critical items like the the thread on the idler shaft that goes into the idler spigot. Or whether people were not bothering with blue and only using red on the critical items.

I think I am going to use blue pretty much everywhere except the critical items that I never want to come apart.

Robert, indeed I am using 603 for all bearing retention. 380 I had not seen, would that be good for bonding the rubber tires onto the road wheels of the PIII?

Thanks

David

[Sarah Frazer]

Hi David,

You might want to consider using Loctite 2701 (Loctites strongest threadlock) for the suspension arm to the suspension shaft.

Regards,

Sarah

[leesellars]

Hello Chaps

Loctite numbers

Low strength 290 or 222
Medium strength 243 or 248
High stength 268 or 2701
For rubber tyres 480 only

Hope this helps

Lee

[David Price]

I use Tamiyas blue thread lock. Never had a problem with it.

[Paul Morris]

Hi Everyone.
Just read through the above thread and a simple but bullet proof mod i have done on the last 4 tanks i have built is to cross drill the suspension parts 2.5mm when assembled and then tap in a roll pin and power file the end off... game over, it will never come undone...but if you need to replace something you can simply knock the pin out.
Cheers Paul

[Robert E Morey]

David,
You can definately bond the tires using the black max or 480 that Lee mentions. A lot depends on what you can find locally. One thing to remember is the cyano's will bond the tyres permanently to the wheel. You will prob destroy or damage the tire in the unlikely event you ever try or need to remove it.

I prefer to glue the tyres on with rubber cement. It holds them on, but they can be removed and reglued with no damage to the tires.

I think most people would opt for the more permanent solution.

Definately use threadlocker on the screws that hold the road wheel bearing keeper washers. These screws have a tendancy to work loose - on a tank with interleaved wheels (Panther or Tiger) this can be a headache when the wheels come off.

Bob