I've spent lots of time reading forum posts and learning from you all, so much good information on here and some incredible build logs.
I dreamt of having an Armortek kit for 20 years and last year I was lucky enough to finally buy one - one of the last of the 2022 Panthers.
I didn't get much done on it last year until September and since then I've been steadily plugging away at it, referring to other build blogs for hints and tips. No massive howlers so far...I think....but you might tell me otherwise
The early build seemed to go together ok with some minor fettling.
- Early build
The hull was built up, with the top plates on to get the alignment correct, then permanently fixed. Lots of time spent on the wheels, oh yes - 150 parts per wheel set.
- Hull built up
Wheels were done with stainless steel M2 nuts and bolts.
- One of many...
Hub caps - I cut the locking tabs from brass sheet, punched 2 holes, then bent the edges over the bolt heads.
- Hub cap
I took a leaf out of Malcolm's book and glued magnets into the back..
- Magnet
Then it was time to texture the plates so I bought a tin of Upol 8 acid etch and applied 3 coats with a small foam roller, it gives a subtle rolled armour effect (I won't be adding zimmerit). You can see I also added cut marks to the plate edges, using a hand file.
- Plate texture
Next up was some Mr surfacer 500 on the kugelblende, and miliputt welds (rolled out by hand). The welds are thicker in some places, my source of reference is the Bovington Panther G (built just after the war).
- Welds
- More welds...
- Even more welds...
Then, making a start on the sprocket rings, I set up the rotary table and did one on there but the results weren't 100% so just did the rest with a hand file.
- Dental work on teeth?
- Finished by hand
The sprocket "boss" (?) received some Mr Surfacer 500 (2 coats so far, might put a 3rd on). I know there are still some machining marks but I don't think those will be visible once built up and installed.
- Sprocket
What I've learnt myself so far:
I use neat acetone to clean up the parts before spraying with the Upol 8 acid etch. It really works a treat.
I have also been spraying parts successfully in low temperatures with the aid of a fan heater - I can warm the part, spray it, then warm it again and have dry paint in minutes. My father used to have a body shop, car repairs, and they could spray cars in low temperature but using infra-red heat lamps. My method is just a variation on that.
Tracks!
I did dip one link into a proprietary metal burnishing liquid, it worked well but I calculated it would cost about £200 to do all the links.
So, being a cheapskate, I did a bit of googling and came up with my own method:
1) Fill a plastic container with plain bleach. I used M&S bleach...this isn't just bleach...it's M&S bleach.
Put links in (few at a time) making sure no air bubbles, for around 2 minutes.
2) Remove links, rinse well in a bucket of water.
3) Shake off water
4) Place links into an ultrsonic bath filled with white vinegar and water (50:50), for 2 minutes. The liquid will go black so replace it every so often.
5) Dry. At this stage I saw blooming (oxidation) on the link surface.
6) Spray (or bath) in WD-40. Leave for 2-5 minutes.
7) Rinse again in water.
Dry.
Cost was £2.40 in bleach, £5 of white vinegar and about £2 of WD-40. The links look great! But I can't guarantee that it'll work for you, I just saying what I tried and worked for me.
Here is a link at stage 5) above:
- Link after bleaching and ultrasonic bath
- A finished link
- Some finished links
PS. This is a paperweight in my office, part of a sprocket from a 424 sPzAbt Tiger 2, blown up by the crew on the 13th or 14th January 1945.
You can still see parts of the locking tabs on the back.
- Tiger 2 sprocket
- Worn teeth
Bye for now and thanks for reading.
Andy
