2024 Sdkfz 7 - First time build

[Colin Stevens]

Hi,
After very many years of pontificating I have finally ordered my very first Armortek kit and today it arrived.
I have checked off most of the tick list, its all looking looking good. Wouldn't fancy filling the 2 rather large and heavy boxes with the goodies that are going towards the build. I have ordered various Loktites (ouch), degreaser and etch primer. I was going to order taps and die and small spanners, but I had better hold fire in that as the boss is going to go ballistic about how much I've spent today, (she really does not understand!)
The garage has been cleared, a new floor laid with a membrane and vinyl garage floor tiles, 3 trips to the tip, we have a big car and filled it every time, not that I'm a hoarder, and the work bench cleaned and tidied. The garage hasn't looked this good since we built it.
So, being an impatient so and so, I hope to start tomorrow, wont get far till the Loctite etc turn up.
More to come, and I'm sure I will be looking for help and advice

Colin

[Andy Walker]

Well done for taking the leap colin It's a bit addictive, as you will find out. I've got an early tiger 1 25% built, sherman easy eight 90% built, pak 40 I've just bought off this forum still in its box, and I'm waiting for my SdKfz 7 to arrive sheds getting cramped. Lots of help ready from people on this forum. Enjoy

[Tim Carr]

Good Luck

Later Tim

[Colin Stevens]

One and a half days later, All checked of, and sort of sorted. The main members of the chassis are pinch tight and square. Really looking forward to being able to do the job properly, just waiting for Loctites and cleaners.
Colin

[Derek Attree]

Hi Colin
Just a small tip I normally etch primer before assembly
especially where steal and aluminium touch each other because if damp gets it you will get massive corrosion at the interface.
Many others on here will have there own ideas but I have found this works for me and I have built over 10 Armortek models and still have 4 in stock
Regards Derek

[Colin Stevens]

Hi Colin
Just a small tip I normally etch primer before assembly
especially where steal and aluminium touch each other because if damp gets it you will get massive corrosion at the interface.
Many others on here will have there own ideas but I have found this works for me and I have built over 10 Armortek models and still have 4 in stock
Regards Derek

Hi Derek,
Ahh, good point, thank you.
So If I was to etch spray all components first, how do I permanently join the components? To use 638 (metal glue) I would have to clean back to bare metal, back to square one.
Or do I etch spray all components, and then rely on mechanical fasteners and a thread locker?

And also, there are a few items that are steel and aluminium, that in the instructions are glued together as they have no mechanical fixtures, what's the best way to deal with that please.

Thanks for the advice,

Colin

every days a skool day

[Derek Attree]

Hi Colin
I never glue things together apart from tyres and bearings and bushes where stated in the instructions.
Most screw things together and I don't tend to use much loctite because it's a pain to take things apart if you need to.

I think it mentions this in the first few pages of general instructions.

Don't over think it and most of all have fun.

Regards Derek

[Dale jordan]

Hi Colin. What I would do at this stage is to pull apart what you have done wet and dry sand the bigger alloy parts before assembly no need at this point to prime these parts but I would prep the steel axle and prime now before rebuilding , plus the other steel parts to be added as you go ! test fit up to a stage you are happy with then if any adjustments can be made and filling of bolt holes if needed then prime the whole lower chassis as one peace . Dale

[Colin Stevens]

Hi, I have done a little more, but not much. Just waiting for various products to arrive. None of the assembly I have done has been tightened fully, the intention was to see if the thread needed re tapping, some did. I shall definitely etch spray the steel parts before fitting.
Really looking forward to being able to get stuck in, but a few jobs in the garden first. Keep the boss happy.
Thanks for the advice Dale and Derek.

[Colin Stevens]

An enjoyable session, or three, in the garage and this is the result. The basic chassis is completes. All went together beautifully, well most of it. Had a slight issue with one of the torsion arms, it was binding. Just a few minutes on the sander on the sides of the arm and it all now moves ok. hopefully I have put the torsion bar in the right way round. All etch primed now.
I've found it takes longer to find the parts than it does to fit them, but that's a good thing thing as it slows me down, not quite so gung ho!

[Andre Meylan]

Hi Colin,

I kind of like that glass of red wine on the bench ... its dark color goes well with the light grey of the primed pieces

Cheers, Andre

[Colin Stevens]

I was considering white wine, but that wouldn't be colour coordinated. Apart from that I don't like white wine.

[Colin Stevens]

Morning all, managed a few fun sessions in the workshop, AKA sawdust factory, and here is the result. All went smoothly, apart from the swivel bush which was a few thou to long, a run across my belt sander, a polish up, and all's sweet. The leaf springs were a bit messy, despite my best efforts, but a bit of grease never hurt any body.
the idler arms and torsion arms/bar are not fixed as yet, trying to decide which way round the torsion bar goes, flat in to fixed point or the flat into the torsion arm, any ideas any one please.
I thought I had a nice sized work bench, but no every available bit of surface has something on it, despite trying to work tidy. My old apprentice master would not be impressed.

[Sean-Armortek]

trying to decide which way round the torsion bar goes, flat in to fixed point or the flat into the torsion arm, any ideas any one please.

Flat into the fixed end, mark the position on the shaft through the hole in the idler shaft and create a flat at that angle. Make sure the idler is in its lowest position.

[Colin Stevens]

trying to decide which way round the torsion bar goes, flat in to fixed point or the flat into the torsion arm, any ideas any one please.

Flat into the fixed end, mark the position on the shaft through the hole in the idler shaft and create a flat at that angle. Make sure the idler is in its lowest position.

Ah, thank you, I was half right. I have the shaft the right way round and I was wondering about creating a flat the other end.
Thanks again.