Steve,s Chieftain rebuild

[Adrian Harris]

They're programmed to flash different patterns during the recoil and there's no way to turn them on and off remotely.

Gary Richardson mentioned an RC switch in his Tiger thread. Cost about a tenner I think, but it would take up another channel in the receiver.

Adrian.

[Steve Norris]

Hi Adrian.
An rc switch was my original plan but then I saw the LED outputs and hoped they would work.
Thanks for the reply.
Regards
Steve

[Charles A Stewart]

Hi folks.

We experimented with the S1's lighting and it worked using the chieftain's receiver. So I am going to pursue that line for now and re-resistor the headlamps as they were rated for 12v.

Cheers

Charles

[John Clarke]

I'm not sure if you can use those outputs on the recoil module, could be for other models.
You could use a simple switcher with retentive or non retentive relays like the P91 action electronics from the component shop. You can use any voltage on a normally open or closed circuit.
It needs one R/C three way switch channel for two outputs. These used to be quite cheap but are now around £33. It's getting harder to find retentive switchers these days.

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[Steve Norris]

A little front end update.
Mods on the big front casting are coming along nicely.

Some more to do yet but the end is in sight for this part of the build.

Regards
Steve

[Steve Norris]

A bit of weathering on the lower hull before I flip it back over, nothing to fancy as it really won’t be seen.

Regards
Steve

[Steve Norris]

The Chieftain front end is now done

Regards

Steve

[John Clarke]

Tasty, nicely done Steve

[Steve Norris]

It’s a bit cold in the garage to do any building on the Chieftain so I thought I would poste a couple of update photos.

Half the rear grills temporarily fitted to check alignment,the central T piece is removable and it took a bit of effort to get everything to fit.

The other half of the grills have been done and are ready to fit. The fuel tank access panels have been moved outboard to a more accurate position and a large rectangular plate fitted to the right side between the grill hinges and access panels, I haven’t a clue what the plate is for ( any ideas). The gun barrel bump stops had to be modified because of the access plate repositioning, it seems everything you do on the Chieftain has a knock on effect.

I have extended the inside of the mudguards and added the access hole for the final drive bolts.

The heavily modified exhaust box has been temporarily fitted. Can’t believe how much time and effort it took on this part.

That’s all for the time being.

Regards
Steve

[John Clarke]

Nice job Steve, I like the shift of the fuel cell inspection hatch, I haven't clue what the extra armor rectangular plate is for. So many modifications made to the many tank Mk's over the years.
I've seen it on a couple of walk rounds and it's missing on other's. Difficult to see with the turret facing forward too, Nice addition though.

IMGP1054.jpg (52.47 KiB) Viewed 125 times

[David Battson]

Hi Steve,
Engine deck looking very good as well as the mudguard extension.
Regarding the rectangular plate on the righthand side, mk2 and early mk3 tanks had an external air intake in that location. This was removed as part of later mk3 upgrades and intake moved into the engine bay. The hole on earlier the hulls was then plated over as per your model. Later mk5s didn’t have the hole at all.
David

[Steve Norris]

Hi David
Thanks for the explanation regarding the plate, it now means my chieftain will have to be an upgraded mk2 or mk3 which is not an issue as most early vehicles were upgraded. I believe that many mk11 tanks started out as mk2 or 3 vehicles.
Regards
Steve

[John Clarke]

Absolutely spot on. Steve you have the Mk5/4 equivalent, the Mk6 just by adding a small plate

The only picture I could find.