Pz 87 Leo of the Swiss Army

[Chang]

Scale dimensions is easy. For fasteners (screws , bolts , nuts , etc) , "Scale" is very hard to meet. Even harder for R/C model.

The closer you take a look at the real thing , the more you will find so.

Cheers,
Lerh Chang

[Andre Meylan]

Today's result are the large bump stoppers all done and ready for installation ... I opted for the greasy version again to avoid queeky noise from the springs inside the housing. I also applied grease to the threads and did not use loctite, because there is constant pressure from the springs inside that will (hopefully) provent the lower nut from loosening ... we will see!

So, I used some primer and coated twice with 1K paint (6031) ... the colors are absolutely identical (the bigger parts are done with 2K paint by a professional car paint shop).

Cheers, André

[Andre Meylan]

Having mounted one bump stopper and the rollers, I realize that I need to make a decision now ... cover the fasteners holding the floor together knowing that I will not be able to disassemble the floor anymore ... can I risk that at this point in time ??? Yes, I checked the correct positioning ...

... thank you for your thoughts, the further mounting must be postponed and the masking n painting of the CSK-fasteners has to come now ... at the 20 plus I fixed so far including for the sprocker and idler.

Cheers, Andre

[Andre Meylan]

Today, we will make those fasteners disappear and I just hope that I did not make a mistake should I ever need to disassemble the floor again ...

Regards, Andre

[Andre Meylan]

... and while tha mastic is drying ... use the platform to prime and paint the caps for the rollers !!!

Cheers, Andre

[Rolf Mönke]

very professional!!

[Andre Meylan]

very professional!!

Thank you Rolf - I am still a rookie in this hobby and learning alot from the forum !!!

Best regards, Andre

[Andre Meylan]

that sanding down took a while ... I think that I did too much of preparation ... but finally it's painted over ... where are the fasteners ??? If you find any, you may as well keep them ... the paint is still wet ... !!!

Cheers, Andre

[Andre Meylan]

I realized that there is an easier way and no need to cover everything ... just use a scotch brite and mask the holes ... after sanding, a second coat is needed that will be applied later this evening ...

Cheers, Andre

[Andre Meylan]

It slowly starts to look more serious ... mounting the sides onto the floor

[Andre Meylan]

First little problem for a non-mechanical engineer ... if the threads are not perfectly aligned, how to make so ... ?? Please don't laugh, I thought maybe shortening the thread would change something ... it didn't ...

So, I fixed the thread using Loctite 638 and put some UHU endfest 300 with thixo powder to cheat on the gap ... the slightly higher position will not disturb the idler adjustment bar.

[Andre Meylan]

More masking of fasteners (CSK), both on the floor just underneath the track protection plates and the upper sides with M3 CSK to cover

[Andre Meylan]

... and after preparing the idler and sprocket housings with primer and paint, I found my first mistake, and it's a heavy one. The opening of the floor sides for the idler shafts and the huge blocks do not align perfectly. I did not pay attention to that and should have mounted the idler bearing (CV0213) onto both pieces when fastening the front supports (CV0105) with the hull sides (CV0102). Since the fasteners went in like butter, I did not pay attention.

Now, I will have to find a turning lathe and take some 0.5mm off the bearing. The importance is not to f*** up the 90° setup. Once the bearing is clear and can be fixed using the fasteners, I can still correct the inner gap using epoxy. Not ideal, but an acceptable workaround without compromise...

Cheers, Andre

[Andre Meylan]

Preparing the floor again for masking the fasteners ...

[Andre Meylan]

Finally some tedious work on the track link connectors ... glueing one side with 638 and securing with another piece to guarantee parallel fixing.

Cheers, Andre