KIT No. 98 BUILD

[mick whittingham]

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Linisher all painted and finished.
Works really well and is a real asset.

Now on with some actual building lol.

[mick whittingham]

Had a crack at making instrument bezels for the three gauges on the dashboard.

While the lathe and me were in miniature mode I also had a stab at the ignition/light switch.
That it currently drying so I couldn't show it with the dash.

How to make tiny glass lenses now! Kidding... I will use clear epoxy to fill each unit when the gauge decal is in place.

[mick whittingham]

[mick whittingham]

Choke knob, 12v sockets and headlight switch now added.

I'm on with the oil and ignition lights.

[mick whittingham]

I've finally decided on a colour and I'm going to do my version of HUE at the British motor museum.

So it will be Land Rover light green

[mick whittingham]

I finished the detailing work on the dash panel today.
Just the instrument dials and lenses to sort out now.

I think it looks OK so far.

I know ow you're all saying why doesn't he crack on the the chassis etc. Lol

Mick.

[simon_manning]

Nice, Makes all the difference to the end result, regards simon.

[mick whittingham]

Spent the day at the motor museum at Gaydon. Great to see so many vehicles but I spent a lot of time with HUE 166 on which I will base my build.
Plenty of other models to look at too. The royal Land Rover used on a tour of the commonwealth looked great.

[mick whittingham]

Been away from the build for some time (don't ask, garden projects, holidays and the like).

I'd had my eye on the brake and clutch pedals for some time. Decided to have a pop at fabricating the original bronze pedal pads.

I milled brass sheet to give the correct profile and then drilled and soldered 1.1mm brass pins into the face to replicate the studs.

A new pedal support rod was also made from brass and soldered in place.

Not a bad little job for a rainy afternoon.

Just need to make the black rubber grommets/gaiters that cover the hole in the chassis floor.

I've been painting the chassis and axles too but more about that when you can see where I've been.

[mick whittingham]

Finished the work on the pedals. I was stuck for silver solder and had to await a delivery.
Made an accelerator pedal too as the kit one looks a little short.

I polished the tip of the throttle pedal to mimic the wear on the original.

[mick whittingham]

Bit of a lull in proceedings with home jobs and the like.

Decided to get on with the chassis and running gear, and my attention turned to the road wheels.

I wanted to look at the wheel studs, not happy with the kit version of whee retention.

I drilled the hubs out and tapped M3 to take some 17mm grub screws I had in hand.

Then I made tapered wheel nuts from 5.5mm brass hexagon stock.

Countersinking the wheel was the final touch.

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I'm happy with the look of the wheel nuts, when painted they will blend in perfectly.

Only another 15 nuts to turn lol.

Then I will look at valve stems and caps.

[mick whittingham]

I looked at the tyre inflation valves today.

I thought M2.5 looked a little large so went with M2.

Drilled and tapped each rim

After the rims are painted I will thread a bolt through from inside and use quick metal to make the black rubber stem effect.

I turned dust caps from brass rod, tapped to suit.

[mick whittingham]

Wheels completed with tyre valves and dust caps.

[Charles A Stewart]

Hi Mick.

Nice work, really like the paint work too.

Charles

[mick whittingham]

Thanks Charles,
I'm using Smith and Allen enamel paint. The wheels have also had a couple of coats of their clear coat sprayed on.
I've used this paint on machine restoration and it's very resilient.
I'm going to turn some centre bolts for the rear hubs so that they look like the half shaft flanges on the original, instead of the csk screws.
Love the work you have done on your model, the electrics are cracking.
Mick