DB Chieftian build

[David Brady]

Thanks John, probably a glitch...please do post a pic of where I need to add some additional, I'm pretty sure it's at the ends of the deck cuts, but it would be good to see what I need to do.

Cheers

[John Clarke]

When my rear deck turned up it had a shallow bend along the red line as in the first picture, it didn't matter so much because the Tee piece cut out mod would take care of it. But the saw cuts arrowed, needed filling in with something. Hence the thin plate.
The second picture shows the Tee piece in place with a sandwich plate to a) raise it a little b) allows the flattening of the deck between the angled sides. This allows the deck covers to appear to lie flat as on the original. It's a bit nit picking, but I felt it important to emphasize the flatness of the eight deck covers as opposed to the hump backed four at the rear.
Arrowed is the filler plate to close the saw gap both sides. Not seen at the other end as it is covered by the Tee cross plate. If you have a very fine cut you may not need or want it.

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[David Brady]

Just what the doctor orderd! Many thanks John, most appreciated.

DB

[Mark Heaps]

An anecdote about the Chieftain T-Piece. In my experience it was marked with the VRN of the tank using weld bead, and if my memory serves me correctly it was in the area I have marked in black and legible (right side up ) when viewed from the rear of the tank.
Due to manufacturing tolerances of the hull, they were not a universal fit but machined to be bolted to the specific hull.
Found this out in early 1987 when attached to the QRIH and the Chieftains were being backloaded a couple at a time to be replaced with Challenger 1. All the T-pieces had been removed from the squadrons 14 tanks and placed outside on the tankpark so work could be done on the power packs.
First tank had to be backloaded and it had snowed heavily. One T-piece dug out of the snow, incorrect VRN but fitted and tank backloaded. Same procedure for the next 7 to go.
Got down to the last six tanks, all work on the packs done so fit the T-pieces, 5 fitted, the last one didn´t. We had to try all possible permutations of tanks and T-pieces till we found a combination that worked.

[Mark Heaps]

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[David Brady]

Thanks Mark - Great info.

Cheers

[David Brady]

Hi All,

I've not done anything for a few weeks due to other hobbies taking up my time, and Ive been putting of making a bracket to support the turret due to the only piece of metal that was suitable was steel ( 1st generation tiger deck support) this required some serious work with the hacksaw!

I'm really enjoying this build and have started to think about the new leopard....where is my medication! back to rehab for me.

Support cut to a height of 35mm

Support installed

Turret bearing with support

Next was to reduce this bracket by 2mm, doing this will allow the turret to turn without hitting the rear deck - the funny thing is without the support and a bearing that was not level, turret had clearance

I'm a little undecided if I will keep the T piece removable - I think the space is sufficient and I could just blend the cut lines in with some filler and fasten down

Looking good

Cheers

[Steve Norris]

Hi Dave.
Looking good, make the T piece removable and add an engine.
Regards
Steve

[David Brady]

Thanks Steve - engine is way to fiddly for me.

Some more progress.

Reduced the hatch

Hatch top was reduced with a large file,then hinge detail was cut with a dremel.

More to do, but I need a to go and lie down

Steve Winstone Bollards fitted - superb!

Cheers

[John Clarke]

Great to see the super detailing coming along David. Don't forget to keep the offcut for a hole host of parts you could make from it. Dozer plate and countless tripping hazards on the turret.

I'm with you on the engine, too fiddly, Maintenance nightmare, but going down the mighty great Mick Hilton path of taking a photograph and slipping under the deck grills, now that is very appealing.

Micks Grant

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[Damon Resch]

Love the idea of using a photo. I bet someone could even wire up an iPad or tablet or old phone with the correct screen size to play live video of a motor running plus I’m guessing the audio could be routed into the sound cards too.

The quality of these phone and tablet screens plus the incredible videos of AFV’s on YouTube I think it could be done.