The life and times of No 28.

[Charles A Stewart]

Hi Folks,
just a quicky, an early xmas pressy arrived for S1 (no.28):-

General view, they are tiny.

Closer look

As John pointed out a bit of something sticky to hold them on and many thanks David.

Perishing chilly up here today, take care.

Charles

[Charles A Stewart]

Morning all.

Couldn't resist a look at this essential reading material regarding our subject. True some of you may have read it already.

Censor has been at it. It should, of course read S1!!

Have fun.

Charles

[John Clarke]

[Charles A Stewart]

Evening folks.

You're in for a right riveting do here.

Just mucking about this afternoon with some lovely EKP (am I allowed to product place)slotless screws, 9BA would be ideal but filed down some 8BA instead, matches M2 better thread wise. 10BA to loose on the hole for my liking.

:

Filed down 8BA rivet screw replaces the m2.

I could have CSK the hole as is but metal tends to become too thin, spot welding, an option for those thus versed in the art could work too.

Wish you all a good Easter break, take care.

Charles

[Charles A Stewart]

Hi all.

Lovely to see other S1's appearing and with useful tips too, I will certainly be using some of them in my build. However, over the weekend and after the arrival of more EKP screws:-

The aim or objective of this exercise, the "tabs" connecting the rear body to the chassis.

Method or madness, it helped, honest (though I did bend the towing hitch, too focused). Top tip, take it off first if going down this road.

Some old holes filled and new ones drilled and tapped, or maybe its me that's tapped.

New plates with CSK, ready for new screws.

And finally, all together, just needs some filler/repaint. Note the re-straightened tow hitch.

There we go, next up will be looking at the front end and hiding those CSK screws.

Have fun.

Charles

[mick whittingham]

They look really neat Charles.

I do like to do those details that lift the kit model to something a bit more special.

I agree, it's great to see other people's builds and gather ideas for your own model.

Keep on posting your work guys, there are more series 1s out there somewhere.

[Charles A Stewart]

Good evening all.

A bit chilly and wet this week when not actually at work, then It was dry, typical

Still, smaller tasks I can do in the house and I can get away with mean some progress is made. In this case the S1 bonnet (alright, hood for the good 'ole US of A), replaced the hinges and windscreen thingies which enabled the use smaller hex bolts.

"Mission Creep", love the phrase, it happens all the time round here. In this case simulated rivets !!

I had to stop just now as the sun is that low and bright it was blinding, not complaining at tall mind. Hope to add more over the weekend, maybe.

Swapped the M2/2.5 with 10BA (sml head(12ba))

With luck I can clean all this up and paint it and fit it at the end of the build, a plan possibly.

Have a good weekend.

Charles

[Charles A Stewart]

Hi folks.

Had an afternoon spare today. So decide to complete the task of gluing on the rest of the placky rivets to No 28's bonnet (hood to those across the water).

To the rivet counters, numbers match but not necessarily in the right place. Some compromise was required.

Although I could dill out all the holes and put in metal rivets(probably wreck the bonnet), I would love to see if someone could replicate the underside of the bonnet(hood). That would be interesting.

Take care.

Charles

[Vince Cutajar]

What's the purpose of all those rivets? Must be holding something on the other side.

Vince

[Charles A Stewart]

Here you go Vince.

Frame work under the bonnet.

Nuts and bolts I can do. But riveting and bending "L" sections are beyond me. As I have said I will be pleased to watch those that can.

Take care.

Chrales

[Vince Cutajar]

I see. Stiffeners for the bonnet.
I don't know what size L section would be appropriate but there a various sizes in brass here:
https://knupfer.info/shop/index.php/pro ... ing-l.html
https://maccmodels.co.uk/product-catego ... gle-cz121/
Thin section brass should not be that difficult to bend to shape. The only difficulty you might encounter is with the existing glued in rivets especially if they are not flush to the bonnet.

Or, I can make you a drawing of the L section profile, print it with a filament 3D printer, and bend it to shape with a little heat.

Vince

[Charles A Stewart]

Good evening all.

Vince I like your idea, maybe a 3D printed frame/stiffener simply glued in place or the component parts printed and sanded/profiled to fit.

The only fly in the ointment are the forward and rear cross bits are an inverted "top hat" section.

As the area under the bonnet(hood for the USA) houses all the electronics, space is tight. So I will stick(pardon the pun) to add on rivets. That is not to say this topic can't be revisited in the future, there are after all better modellers than me out there

Take care all.

Charles